cereshill
Well-known member
I like lixit, but the walmart ones at $3 have worked rather well too.
Feeders: have old handme downs---looking to upgrade...
Feeders: have old handme downs---looking to upgrade...
Feeders and Waterers--preferences and why?
- Thread starter cereshill
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I prefer crocks for both feed and water in summer. In winter we use the two-part freezer box system for water.
I don't like J-feeders or water bottles much. One thing I would like to find is good hay rack that holds enough for two or three days... With natural feeding, hay is the staple and I like to keep it in front of them 24/7.
I don't like J-feeders or water bottles much. One thing I would like to find is good hay rack that holds enough for two or three days... With natural feeding, hay is the staple and I like to keep it in front of them 24/7.
cereshill
Well-known member
we often put hay on top of the wire cages; the rabbits pull down what they want to eat, waste is minimized, they don't poop on it and there is plenty for them.
Waterbottles in the non-freezing weather season. 
Crocks in the freezing part of the year.
For feeders....
I'm really liking the system I'm using now. Attach to the cage - they are meant for pop bottles - but I'm using them for pellets. Means I don't have the waste I got with J-feeders and they hold enough for rabbits of various sizes, with feeding twice a day if needed for juniors.
I have kept 6 cages with j-feeders intact for does with kits. I would like to find something different but don't really know what to use. Creep feeders seem labour intensive, but I'd like to reduce waste from fecal matter being mixed into the feed. I do NOT want to use crocks with kits as they just poop over everything.... so that is still a thought in process.
Crocks
in the freezing part of the year.For feeders....
I'm really liking the system I'm using now. Attach to the cage - they are meant for pop bottles - but I'm using them for pellets. Means I don't have the waste I got with J-feeders and they hold enough for rabbits of various sizes, with feeding twice a day if needed for juniors.
I have kept 6 cages with j-feeders intact for does with kits. I would like to find something different but don't really know what to use. Creep feeders seem labour intensive, but I'd like to reduce waste from fecal matter being mixed into the feed. I do NOT want to use crocks with kits as they just poop over everything.... so that is still a thought in process.
trinityoaks
Well-known member
I like my J-feeders with lids. I get the Fine-X II feeders from Bass, and I get the lids to go on them. I've used containers wired to the corners, but it's such a hassle to have to reach into the cage to fill the feeders, and the rabbits like to dump the containers if they can. For some reason (maybe because I'm feeding grain instead of pellets) I don't have the waste that others complain of with the J-feeders.
I also have the hay racks from Bass. I have the 7" width, but they also make them in 11" width.
I've been using the 2-liter bottle conversion kits, but Bass just came out with a new tip that's supposed to reduce leaks, and I hate it. My rabbits don't seem to be able to push it in enough to get any significant amount of water. For my three new Cals, I didn't have time to shop around or wait for a mail order, so I went to TSC and bought the Bass quart-sized bottles with the old-style drinking tube for the same price as a conversion kit by itself. My only complaint is that the mounting hardware that comes with the bottle has to be put on the inside of the cage, and my rabbits like to knock them down. I'm going to go out tomorrow and figure out how to mount them on the outside of the cages. Even though we get a lot of freezing temps here (we've had over a foot of snow in the last 10 days--in TEXAS!), it doesn't get cold enough in the garage to freeze the water bottles. Someday, though, I would like to have an automatic watering system (at least the 5-gallon buckets with gravity feed).
I also have the hay racks from Bass. I have the 7" width, but they also make them in 11" width.
I've been using the 2-liter bottle conversion kits, but Bass just came out with a new tip that's supposed to reduce leaks, and I hate it. My rabbits don't seem to be able to push it in enough to get any significant amount of water. For my three new Cals, I didn't have time to shop around or wait for a mail order, so I went to TSC and bought the Bass quart-sized bottles with the old-style drinking tube for the same price as a conversion kit by itself. My only complaint is that the mounting hardware that comes with the bottle has to be put on the inside of the cage, and my rabbits like to knock them down. I'm going to go out tomorrow and figure out how to mount them on the outside of the cages. Even though we get a lot of freezing temps here (we've had over a foot of snow in the last 10 days--in TEXAS!), it doesn't get cold enough in the garage to freeze the water bottles. Someday, though, I would like to have an automatic watering system (at least the 5-gallon buckets with gravity feed).
lyndseyrk
Well-known member
I use 2 types of feeders and 2 types of waterers. I use J-feeders for does and litters. When I need to replace J-feeders, I will go with the stainless steel ones. I use heavy, ceramic feed crocks for all other rabbits. I use water bottles from spring to fall. I have mostly Walmart waterbottles, but will slowly start converting to thicker bottles and wide-mouth versions (Lixit, most likely) as the Walmart ones are cheap and cheap for a reason. In the winter, I use stainless steel bowls for water. If it never froze here, I'd NEVER use a water bowl.
J-FEEDERS
PROS: Hold large amount of feed for litters
Can feed rabbits without opening doors
Rabbits cannot move them or dump them out
Those with mesh bottoms sift out dust from feed and grain
These can be hung high up for adults who like to dig in their feed.
When paired with a large volume water bottle, it can hold enough feed to last a weekend while you are away from your rabbits.
CONS: Although not necessary, most cut a hole in the wire to insert the feeder. Without the feeder, you have a hole in your cage.
Even with a lid, when used on outdoor hutches, weather will still get inside your J-feeder.
Even with a mesh bottom to sift fines, some dust will gather in corners. If not cleaned out regularly it will accumulate and mold.
The feeders are square and "bump out" into the cage. Rabbits can injure themselves on the square corners that protrude into the cage.
It encourages owners to self-feed rabbits that shouldn't be self-fed (anything other than does and litters).
Small bunnies can climb into the feeder. Some have been known to travel to the outside of the cage through the feeder.
Small animals can enter the cage through the feeder like rats, mice, and snakes.
They will rust over time (unless you aquire a stainless-steel version).
They are a pain to scrub and clean.
FEED CROCKS/BOWLS
PROS: Come in a wide variety of styles and material.
If you get the kind that attach to the wire of the cage, you can place it on the inside of your cage door. To feed, you open the door and pour the feed in. Great for those leary of rabbits (especially the mean ones).
Those that attach to the wire can be raised for adults who dig and lowered for smaller rabbits.
Easily removed for cleaning.
Easy to clean.
Inexpensive, can be purchased for little to nothing if found around the house or at a flea market. I buy mine for $1 at the Dollar Tree.
CONS: Rabbits can easily soil their feed (baby bunnies are really bad about this).
Those made of plastic can be chewed.
Those not attached to the cage or heavy enough, can be moved around the cage and dumped over.
If crock gets moved to the back of the cage by the rabbit, you will have to reach into cage on a daily basis (time consuming and "dangerous" if you have territorial rabbits).
WATER BOTTLES
PROS: Water is kept clean at all times (as long as you keep your bottle clean)
Rabbits cannot spill water and be without until you notice.
Rabbits can be watered from the outside of the cage, saving time and energy from having to open and reach into cages.
Water bottle nozzles take up very little space within the cage.
It's easy to measure water if needed, especially when adding supplements or medications to water.
Are available in wide variety of types and sizes. Large ones are great for weekend getaways or multiple rabbits.
CONS: They freeze quickly in the winter.
In the summer, water doesn't stay as cold as it does in crocks.
It can be difficult to determine if/when your bottle has a leak.
Sick and weak rabbits don't often drink enough out of bottles. It takes too much energy and time.
They can be hard to clean.
Can get expensive.
WATER CROCKS/BOWLS
PROS: Many of the same pros as feed crocks
Easy to remove ice from in winter. Dump ice and refill with fresh water.
CONS: Many of the same cons as feed crocks
J-FEEDERS
PROS: Hold large amount of feed for litters
Can feed rabbits without opening doors
Rabbits cannot move them or dump them out
Those with mesh bottoms sift out dust from feed and grain
These can be hung high up for adults who like to dig in their feed.
When paired with a large volume water bottle, it can hold enough feed to last a weekend while you are away from your rabbits.
CONS: Although not necessary, most cut a hole in the wire to insert the feeder. Without the feeder, you have a hole in your cage.
Even with a lid, when used on outdoor hutches, weather will still get inside your J-feeder.
Even with a mesh bottom to sift fines, some dust will gather in corners. If not cleaned out regularly it will accumulate and mold.
The feeders are square and "bump out" into the cage. Rabbits can injure themselves on the square corners that protrude into the cage.
It encourages owners to self-feed rabbits that shouldn't be self-fed (anything other than does and litters).
Small bunnies can climb into the feeder. Some have been known to travel to the outside of the cage through the feeder.
Small animals can enter the cage through the feeder like rats, mice, and snakes.
They will rust over time (unless you aquire a stainless-steel version).
They are a pain to scrub and clean.
FEED CROCKS/BOWLS
PROS: Come in a wide variety of styles and material.
If you get the kind that attach to the wire of the cage, you can place it on the inside of your cage door. To feed, you open the door and pour the feed in. Great for those leary of rabbits (especially the mean ones).
Those that attach to the wire can be raised for adults who dig and lowered for smaller rabbits.
Easily removed for cleaning.
Easy to clean.
Inexpensive, can be purchased for little to nothing if found around the house or at a flea market. I buy mine for $1 at the Dollar Tree.
CONS: Rabbits can easily soil their feed (baby bunnies are really bad about this).
Those made of plastic can be chewed.
Those not attached to the cage or heavy enough, can be moved around the cage and dumped over.
If crock gets moved to the back of the cage by the rabbit, you will have to reach into cage on a daily basis (time consuming and "dangerous" if you have territorial rabbits).
WATER BOTTLES
PROS: Water is kept clean at all times (as long as you keep your bottle clean)
Rabbits cannot spill water and be without until you notice.
Rabbits can be watered from the outside of the cage, saving time and energy from having to open and reach into cages.
Water bottle nozzles take up very little space within the cage.
It's easy to measure water if needed, especially when adding supplements or medications to water.
Are available in wide variety of types and sizes. Large ones are great for weekend getaways or multiple rabbits.
CONS: They freeze quickly in the winter.
In the summer, water doesn't stay as cold as it does in crocks.
It can be difficult to determine if/when your bottle has a leak.
Sick and weak rabbits don't often drink enough out of bottles. It takes too much energy and time.
They can be hard to clean.
Can get expensive.
WATER CROCKS/BOWLS
PROS: Many of the same pros as feed crocks
Easy to remove ice from in winter. Dump ice and refill with fresh water.
CONS: Many of the same cons as feed crocks
AprilW
Well-known member
- Joined
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I much prefer water bottles, the 32 oz type from TSC. I use cheap plastic bowls for feed that I bought from WalMart over the summer for $.90 each. I hated my j-feeders and only used them for 2 months before re-selling them. For hay, I stuff it into toilet paper tubes. Scrap wire can also make a good hay rack.
Devon's Mom Lauren
Well-known member
I know someone who uses those metal spring things with the hooks at both ends. They used to come with the waterers but now they have gone to cheap pieces of wire. Anyways she puts a wad of hay on the front of each cage and holds it with the spring, the rabbits just eat through the wire.Gives them something to do , keeps the hay off the cage floor and clean and it doesn't fall down on top of them as well and perhaps get in their eyes or nose. Any that falls is swept up.
I use j feeders both for pellets and hay, as I have a lot of them. I don't like cutting holes in my cages so I attach them on the inside or on the door, have a few two piece feeders that connect thru the wire as well. For feed diggers I have crocks with heavy lips, makes it hard for them to scrabble the food up out of the bowl. I use water bottles in warm weather, and then crocks and a bunch of these large stainless steel small bucket like containers in winter, makes getting the ice out so easy, pour water on the bottom it pops right out. I like the metal water containers the best. When its time to clean everything I either power wash in buckets or run them thru the dishwasher. The hay in the j feeders works really well, I have some really large ones too, so I can pack quite a bit in one. Rabbits will pull hay from both the top and the bottom.
We have been unable to use water bottles because our rabbits think they are toys. The sit and play with them licking and letting the water run out of their mouths. I thought this was a habit of just one doe but she told everyone how fun it is and several do it now.
So we have water crocks. We have J feeders for pellets (and fat rabbits) and smaller crocks for whole grains although we are considering changing to the little clip on plastic cups for that just to free up cage space. We use homemade rabbit wire holders for hay-little half basket type affairs. One great thing about crocks in our climate is that the does learn to lay curled around them when it is very hot and they pull body heat out and help them stay cool.
B~
So we have water crocks. We have J feeders for pellets (and fat rabbits) and smaller crocks for whole grains although we are considering changing to the little clip on plastic cups for that just to free up cage space. We use homemade rabbit wire holders for hay-little half basket type affairs. One great thing about crocks in our climate is that the does learn to lay curled around them when it is very hot and they pull body heat out and help them stay cool.
B~
Katduck
Well-known member
I love the Pro B J Feeders from Bass. They don't stick out into the cage, kits don't sit in them and there is hardly any wasted feed. They also have lids available that I just added to all my feeders. I just wish they made a larger size for my grow out pens.
I prefer the fliptop bottles that you don't have to remove to refill. In winter I switch to plastic containers wired to the cages like Maggie uses. Also the fliptop bottles don't have balls, they have the pin type ends, so they don't drip.
I use separate bright plastic bird cups for the grain mixture. They just hook over the wire.
I prefer the fliptop bottles that you don't have to remove to refill. In winter I switch to plastic containers wired to the cages like Maggie uses. Also the fliptop bottles don't have balls, they have the pin type ends, so they don't drip.
I use separate bright plastic bird cups for the grain mixture. They just hook over the wire.
trinityoaks
Well-known member
My rabbits seemingly can't operate the pin-end bottles--they're too stiff. I've had success with adding an extra rubber washer or two to the ball-end type so that they don't leak as much (or at all).Katduck":1twvphjo said:
MeadowView
Well-known member
I use whatever bottles I can find. Wal-mart water bottles are on most of the cages, but the farnam pet one I have for my old retired champagne gal is by far my favorite and the best one I've bought. I like J feeders even though they are slightly most costly, they are EXCELLENT for feeding does with litters.
p&e rabbitry
Member
feeder good solid crocks
water couldn't survive without my automatic watering system nipple type founts. I use it year around.
water couldn't survive without my automatic watering system nipple type founts. I use it year around.
All Ears Rabbitry
Active member
I have j-feeders and water crocks. I also have a few water bottles that I add to cages that have does with litters. I like the crocks better, especially in the summer. Even with the cooler it gets warm and the bunnies appreciate the water crocks. I water 3 times a day in the summer though (well, twice and hubby does it once) but I often find bunnies with their paws dipped in to their "elbows".
I like crocks myself. A couple of reasons, one being that they don't drip and rust the wire. Another is that I find them much easier to clean. The only problem that I have found with ceramic crocks is that they can be cracked by freezing water in the winter, so I have gone to aluminum crocks for my waterers. I don't use plastic crocks. I have found they are too light so the rabbits turn them over and push them around too easily. They also get gnawed on and the abrasions can harbor germs.
I do use J feeders when the kits start to eat, but I mount them on the inside of the cages so I don't have to cut holes in the front. Otherwise I use ceramic crocks for food and aluminum crocks for water.
I do use J feeders when the kits start to eat, but I mount them on the inside of the cages so I don't have to cut holes in the front. Otherwise I use ceramic crocks for food and aluminum crocks for water.
tjr6257
New member
Hello, I'm new to this site but I'd like to share my method of watering my rabbits. Once I did it it's hard to think about watering the old way anymore! It took so much time with filling j-bottles and dealing with them freezing, if my wife or I were at work all day they'd go without water until we got home. I finally rigged up an automatic system that didn't really cost to much to make (under $50 bucks) it won't freeze and never runs out of fresh water.
I started with a 5 gal bucket mounted above my cages about a foot or so, a 1/2" pvc line exits the bottom and runs outside the back of the cage about 6" off the bottom across the length of the cage (I have one cage about 8 ft long with 3 dividers). Each cage has 1 or 2 spring loaded watering nipples (from Bass) and the pvc line then goes back to the bucket and dumps into the top. I used an inexpensive fountain pump (about $12) that directly connects to the exit line at the bottom of the bucket. The pump is used only in freezing weather and is turned on by a "thermocube". When the pump is not on water will flow right thru it anyway and the system is gravity fed (but it doesn't re-circulate}. I also have a fish tank heater in the bucket that comes on with the thermcube and it provides plenty of heat to keep the water in the bucket warm. So with the heater and the re-circulating pump working the water continuously flows thru the line providing room temp water to the rabbits. I also put a float valve in the bucket that the incoming water connects to so it keeps the bucket full. In the foothills of CA the temps don't stay cold for very long so I don't have to worry about my source line freezing, when it does there's plenty of water in the bucket to last a few days until it thaws. So far, everything has worked great thru this winter. If anyone would like more info or pics/diagrams I'd be happy to share.
Great site here, hello to my Canadian friends (my wife is Canadian!)
I started with a 5 gal bucket mounted above my cages about a foot or so, a 1/2" pvc line exits the bottom and runs outside the back of the cage about 6" off the bottom across the length of the cage (I have one cage about 8 ft long with 3 dividers). Each cage has 1 or 2 spring loaded watering nipples (from Bass) and the pvc line then goes back to the bucket and dumps into the top. I used an inexpensive fountain pump (about $12) that directly connects to the exit line at the bottom of the bucket. The pump is used only in freezing weather and is turned on by a "thermocube". When the pump is not on water will flow right thru it anyway and the system is gravity fed (but it doesn't re-circulate}. I also have a fish tank heater in the bucket that comes on with the thermcube and it provides plenty of heat to keep the water in the bucket warm. So with the heater and the re-circulating pump working the water continuously flows thru the line providing room temp water to the rabbits. I also put a float valve in the bucket that the incoming water connects to so it keeps the bucket full. In the foothills of CA the temps don't stay cold for very long so I don't have to worry about my source line freezing, when it does there's plenty of water in the bucket to last a few days until it thaws. So far, everything has worked great thru this winter. If anyone would like more info or pics/diagrams I'd be happy to share.
Great site here, hello to my Canadian friends (my wife is Canadian!)
Hello TJR and welcome to RabbitTalk!
Sounds like a great system... I wonder whether it would work in places with a "real" winter? Any thought on the minimum temperature it could handle without freezing?
Sounds like a great system... I wonder whether it would work in places with a "real" winter? Any thought on the minimum temperature it could handle without freezing?
tjr6257
New member
Thanks MaggieJ, the coldest it has been while using this system was 18 degrees but it only lasted a couple of nights. Otherwise we hover around high twenty's low thirty's during our "cold snaps". My supply line froze but the water kept flowing within the system. If I lived where you live I'd insulate and heat tape the supply line, that would solve that problem. Next I'd insulate the bucket and the line itself if needed. But the water flows at above room temp (here) at freezing temps outside. So you might need a higher watt heater (mine is a 200w set to high) for really cold temps. I'd like to know if anyone else tries this system in really cold climes, let me know.
