Equine Thrush

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HowlsOfAngels

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If you've ever had to deal with it then you know this stuff is nasty. It's a bacteria that penetrates a horses frog (the triangular cushion on the bottom of their hoof) and causes it to slowly rot and slough off. It smells god awful and can cause lameness, plus, there is no tried and true cure that will work for every horse.

My horses, after going through several drenching rains, developed this infection of the frog and I've been battling with it for the last two months or so before I finally found a solution. At first I used several bottles of straight hospital grade iodine, I thought that cleared it up, but it came back with a vengeance a few weeks later. When I researched its use further I found that in some cases it works like a charm and in others it will appear to work and then make it ten times worse.

So, a few days ago I got a gallon of vinegar and started using a diluted solution on their hooves after they'd been thoroughly picked clean and after I'd clipped off all the rotted frog with a pair of wire cutters (horse frog is some thick stuff, it dulled a pair of scissors mighty quickly). It only took three days for the thrush to clear and the hooves to start drying out, so I applied some Corona Ointment the other night and I'm already starting to see some regrowth.

I just thought I'd share this in case another member runs into this issue with their horse and needs some guidance. And I'm sure some non horse savvy members might be interested as well.
 
I rode at one place where they did a part water and part bleach solution. They never seemed to have a problem with thrush. I rode at a barn near a river that the pastures would be wet all the time and that was such a battle.( actually is it was located almost like a peninsula with the river on both sides. I thought it was the worst location for a barn) I can't remember what that purple stuff was that we would apply but it was debatable if it actual did much. Ill a have to keep your way of taking care of in mind! I ride at a different barn now,but it's been quite the rainy season here in Ga!
 
The purple stuff was Thrush Buster. I've used it before, and it worked, but they could have changed he formula in the last 10 years! Haven had to touch the stuff since we got our horses out of boarding stables and on our own pastures. In stalls, the moisture hangs around longer, but pasture, it's so dry here in So Co that we usually have to deal with grass cracks in the hooves, not thrush.
 
HowlsOfAngels":3td9porz said:
I got a gallon of vinegar and started using a diluted solution on their hooves

Yet another use for the ever amazing vinegar! :p

HowlsOfAngels":3td9porz said:
It only took three days for the thrush to clear and the hooves to start drying out, so I applied some Corona Ointment the other night and I'm already starting to see some regrowth.

That's great! I'm so glad you got it cleared up! :D

Peach":3td9porz said:
they did a part water and part bleach solution.

That's what my farrier recommends and it worked for our old gelding one wet muddy winter.
 
I've had two ponies that were prone to having issues with thrush.
Both times I just invested in a bottle of thrush buster. Pricy for a tiny bottle, but it always clears it right up.
Next time it shows up I'll have to remember to try vinegar, or the bleach/water solution.
It would be much cheaper and at least I won't have to worry about ruining my clothes with purple stains!! (I think I ruined two shirts that way, lol!)

I might even try using the vinegar as a preventive during the wet season........hmmmm.
Thanks for sharing HowlsOfAngels!
 
Thrush and Hoof Rot/Foot Scald are the same organism--if you use powdered tetracycline, mixed with rubbing alcohol, applied as a 'foot bath' (sheep people have trays the animals walk and stand in) one can clear up and prevent the recurrence-- the mixture turns purple-- and can be stored/reused multiple times. A nice sized injection of Penn LA helps battle from the inside, as well.
 
Generally when you have a horse prone to thrush it means you are feeding a diet low in copper (or high in iron which binds copper, or low in zinc which is needed for adequate copper absorption)
 
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