Does this plan sound workable?

[kusanar314]

Ok, so, I'm seriously planning on getting rabbits in the spring. The goal is meat, fur, and fiber.

I have a source for Silver Fox nearby and affordable so I'm thinking about getting some of those first and use them for meat and fur, I would like to also get Rex at some point and Angora (German or English) but those may be years down the road still but just so you can see where the plans are eventually going.

I'm going to make my own cages, was thinking to make 4 cages 5'x3'x2' (WDH), and make removable dividers that can go in the middle to split the cages in half (giving 7.5 ft sq for each half) for non breeding does and bucks.

My initial thought was to get a pair or a trio, put a divider in one of the big cages, put the buck in one of the half cages, give the doe that is being bred a full cage, leave her in the full cage until the kits are weaned then move her into a small one and split the litter into 2-3 large cages (ARBA standards say you can have up to 5 kits up to 5 lbs in one of those cages) to grow out, then when close to harvest, breed the doe again and give her back the big cage once the kits have been harvested.

Eventually I'll have more room for more than 4 of those big cages and can breed more than 1 doe at a time (would ideally like to breed them in pairs for fostering and such) but not knowing how many kits per litter I would rather do 1 doe at a time and have plenty of room just in case.

Does this sound sensible?

 

[tambayo]

I wouldn't want a cage deeper than 2 feet or 60cm due to armlength so i can reach to the back of the cage for catching/cleaning and so on.

 

[Alaska Satin]

Ok, so, I'm seriously planning on getting rabbits in the spring. The goal is meat, fur, and fiber.

I have a source for Silver Fox nearby and affordable so I'm thinking about getting some of those first and use them for meat and fur, I would like to also get Rex at some point and Angora (German or English) but those may be years down the road still but just so you can see where the plans are eventually going.

I'm going to make my own cages, was thinking to make 4 cages 5'x3'x2' (WDH), and make removable dividers that can go in the middle to split the cages in half (giving 7.5 ft sq for each half) for non breeding does and bucks.

My initial thought was to get a pair or a trio, put a divider in one of the big cages, put the buck in one of the half cages, give the doe that is being bred a full cage, leave her in the full cage until the kits are weaned then move her into a small one and split the litter into 2-3 large cages (ARBA standards say you can have up to 5 kits up to 5 lbs in one of those cages) to grow out, then when close to harvest, breed the doe again and give her back the big cage once the kits have been harvested.

Eventually I'll have more room for more than 4 of those big cages and can breed more than 1 doe at a time (would ideally like to breed them in pairs for fostering and such) but not knowing how many kits per litter I would rather do 1 doe at a time and have plenty of room just in case.

Does this sound sensible?

It sounds reasonable.

One comment is that a 3' deep cage can make it pretty hard to get hold of a rabbit that doesn't want to be gotten hold of (and they always seem to know when you intend to pick them up versus rub their forehead). Making your cages shallower might make your life, and theirs, a lot more pleasant.

Removable dividers sound nice but I've had problems with them in the past. If a divider isn't seriously attached, all the way around, the rabbits usually find a way to breach it. Even if they can't get into the other cage, they can cause trouble by barbering or nipping. My current issue is metal dividers that have eroded away along the bottom edge (they're very old) so that the attachment points are no longer viable, and the rabbits can get to each other under the divider. But maybe you are not intending to keep the dividers in long enough for that to become a problem.

I do suggest making the dividers solid rather than wire mesh, for a number of reasons.

Personally, I'd make it a priority to be able to breed two does at once. It could just be my herd, but having fostering options has saved a lot of heartache and tragedy, and not having the option has been heartbreaking more than a few times. If your does have unusually large litters, having multiple kits in a slightly smaller than ideal cage for a while isn't usually a huge problem. The key to having them get along in smaller spaces seems to be not moving them, and especially not combining/shuffling kits among litters at weaning, which results in testing and bickering in order to re-establish a dominance hierarchy. Kits who've grown up together in the same cage generally already have it worked out.

 

[kusanar314]

I wouldn't want a cage deeper than 2 feet or 60cm due to armlength so i can reach to the back of the cage for catching/cleaning and so on.

One comment is that a 3' deep cage can make it pretty hard to get hold of a rabbit that doesn't want to be gotten hold of (and they always seem to know when you intend to pick them up versus rub their forehead). Making your cages shallower might make your life, and theirs, a lot more pleasant.

I do understand these points, but the reason for the 3 feet is that the floor wire I can find local only comes in a 3' roll and I really don't want to have to spend that kind of money just to cut a foot off of the edge all the way down the roll. Plus, to get a 2' cage to a similar footage would mean it would need to be 7-8' long which isn't really practical for being able to move it and then you have THAT problem with the rabbits being able to take off to the other end of the cage (even with 2 doors that seems like a good way to chase a rabbit back and forth).

Removable dividers sound nice but I've had problems with them in the past. If a divider isn't seriously attached, all the way around, the rabbits usually find a way to breach it. Even if they can't get into the other cage, they can cause trouble by barbering or nipping. My current issue is metal dividers that have eroded away along the bottom edge (they're very old) so that the attachment points are no longer viable, and the rabbits can get to each other under the divider. But maybe you are not intending to keep the dividers in long enough for that to become a problem.

I do suggest making the dividers solid rather than wire mesh, for a number of reasons.

I was going to make them out of 2 pieces of wire with a solid material sandwiched in between the layers and be able to actually wire them into the sides of the cage (and bottom) when they are installed.

Personally, I'd make it a priority to be able to breed two does at once. It could just be my herd, but having fostering options has saved a lot of heartache and tragedy, and not having the option has been heartbreaking more than a few times. If your does have unusually large litters, having multiple kits in a slightly smaller than ideal cage for a while isn't usually a huge problem. The key to having them get along in smaller spaces seems to be not moving them, and especially not combining/shuffling kits among litters at weaning, which results in testing and bickering in order to re-establish a dominance hierarchy. Kits who've grown up together in the same cage generally already have it worked out.

Ok, so if the kits will be ok squished for a period of time, have 2 does in big cages with nest boxes, then pull does out, that would take 3 half cages (2 does and a buck) leaving 2 and a half cages or 12 kits worth of space remaining with the planned 4 cages. If absolutely needed I do have 2 18x24 dog crates that I could toss a few into which would give me 2 more rabbits worth of space (or even the does could go in those temporarily and give the kits another big cage.)

 

[eco2pia]

I do suggest making the dividers solid rather than wire mesh, for a number of reasons.

Beyond spraying...why?

I have always had wire, for ventilation, and ease of construction. I do wish the my spray happy buck was in a separate bachelor pad sometimes, but that is the only time I feel like it is a problem. I don't bring in outside stock very often, and everybunny seems to cuddle thru the wire without conflict. Kits under 6 weeks are even able to squiggle over to the bucks cage for a visit. In fact, that is why I don't have the buck in a separate apartment--I feel like he would get lonely. He snuggles the kits just like mom, and they all share his food.

Have I just been really lucky?

 

[Alaska Satin]

Beyond spraying...why?

I have always had wire, for ventilation, and ease of construction. I do wish the my spray happy buck was in a separate bachelor pad sometimes, but that is the only time I feel like it is a problem. I don't bring in outside stock very often, and everybunny seems to cuddle thru the wire without conflict. Kits under 6 weeks are even able to squiggle over to the bucks cage for a visit. In fact, that is why I don't have the buck in a separate apartment--I feel like he would get lonely. He snuggles the kits just like mom, and they all share his food.

Have I just been really lucky?

Maybe you've been lucky...? About 3/4 of my cages have solid dividers. In the ones with wire dividers, most of the rabbits do not have problems through the wire...until they do.

Bucks spraying, yes, ugh. My Satins and Champagnes don't ever spray unless they can see another rabbit, but then a number of them will. But even if they're not spraying, they can aggravate each other. I had a beautiful young broken black that I was about to put in the pot, since every time I walked by the cage he'd lunge at me; but when I opened the door, he'd run and hide in the back in a defensive hunched posture, none of which are typical of my rabbits. He never bit, though, so I spent a little extra time watching him and realized he spent nearly every moment of his life hassling and being hassled by the very active little Polish buck next door. I moved him to a cage with solid walls, and instantly (it was actually amazing how fast it happened) he became the calmest, sweetest rabbit in the barn; now instead of lunging, he runs up to have his head rubbed.

I've had does that snuggled through the wire, and always slept side-by-side. But I've also had other does raising litters who badly damaged kits on the other side of the wire. They tore up noses, nipped toes off, ripped ears, one even grabbed a kit by the eyelid (and the wire does not have especially wide openings, it's the same 1 x 1/2" wire I use for floors). These does were also slightly aggressive with me, which again, is totally atypical of my rabbits. When I put up solid walls on the offending does' cages, the problem was solved, including the agitation that made them aggressive toward me.

Another problem, which you might not have to worry about if you don't bring rabbits in or take them out, is passing nasties around. Our rabbits go to shows, fairs, demonstrations, etc., and a few times they've come home with fur and/or ear mites. I've never had problems with snuffles, but that's another one to think about. Solid dividers go a long way to keeping all of that stuff from spreading.

 

[eco2pia]

Yeah, mine live their whole lives here generally. I just keep big lazy rabbits mostly, too, so attitudes are calm and happy. I also have giant cages, so if they don't like a particular neighbor they have 5 feet to run away, and a hidey box to go into or behind...