Greetings! I need some help. I started trying to bread rabbits for meat in August. I have a Rex/Californian mix and both were 8 months old when I starting the trying. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. I am taking the buck and doe to a neutral position. I watch the buck mount and fall off. I usually let them mate 3 separate occasions. Usually 2 in the evening and then another time before I go to work the next day. I still cant seem to get a litter. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and thought rabbits were easy to breed. Thanks for your help.
Can't get a litter
- Thread starter MR R@BB1T
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Northwinds Rabbitry
Well-known member
Welcome to RT!!!
I have had that happen a few times to I waited. Months upon months for a litter the buck did his thing but nothing then I did notice somehow (dont know how I got to think about this but anyway) he had a split penis issue and I believe. Some can still breed with that but mine couldn't and i switched bucks and i got a litter first try. Also another doe who was bred to the same buck that produced. For the other doe didn't work with this one uuuuhhhhh now what so I switched to a whole new buck and out comes a litter (mine are mini rex but the, after ones may take longer or she's not taking. Somehow or something. Lol)
I am sure some meat breeder. Will be here soon!!
I have had that happen a few times to I waited. Months upon months for a litter the buck did his thing but nothing then I did notice somehow (dont know how I got to think about this but anyway) he had a split penis issue and I believe. Some can still breed with that but mine couldn't
and i switched bucks and i got a litter first try. Also another doe who was bred to the same buck that produced. For the other doe didn't work with this one uuuuhhhhh now what so I switched to a whole new buck and out comes a litter (mine are mini rex but the, after ones may take longer or she's not taking. Somehow or something. Lol)I am sure some meat breeder. Will be here soon!!
Thank you so much for responding.I'm thinking it is my buck too. I took 2 does over to a friends and "borrowed" his buck but my does still didn't take. I'm not sure what to think because I gave him that buck, and tried him before as well.
I suspect my buck because he screams after mating. My other bucks just kinda growled at the end.
Hopefully I'm able to get some bunnies soon.
I suspect my buck because he screams after mating. My other bucks just kinda growled at the end.
Hopefully I'm able to get some bunnies soon.
some bucks are screamers not sure why.
I would try both with a proven opposite and then see what happens.
by eight months they should be ready and willing to breed and able to produce.
I would try both with a proven opposite and then see what happens.
by eight months they should be ready and willing to breed and able to produce.
are there any environmental factors that could be causing this? Too hot, too cold, not enough water etc?
Breeding each with a different rabbit who has been successful is my next step in troubleshooting this.
Thanks for all the help
Breeding each with a different rabbit who has been successful is my next step in troubleshooting this.
Thanks for all the help
TwoAcreDream
Well-known member
Have you turned the buck upside down and looked at his male parts ?
Maybe something isn't right....
Maybe something isn't right....
3mina
Well-known member
How much light are they getting? What do their spines feel like? Are they housed indoors or out?
Northwinds Rabbitry
Well-known member
I tried doing. The borrowing. Thing to but my doe was to nervous. Or something. And they did their thing but never kindled and i tried. With that borrowed. Buck 2-3 times maybe??
MR R@BB1T":3qwi8maj said:
It could potentially be that the does are not receptive because the day length are so short, or potentially that they are too chubby. Too much weight around the ovaries will cause a drop in fertility. Trying the does with a new buck and the buck with other does is a good way to test for it.
I had a four year old buck (not really that old in he scope of things) that would cover this doe, but she just wouldn't take. I tried two times unsuccessfully, and then the third time I threw another doe in with him the same day. Both does took that time, so I know it wasn't my boy going sterile, it was just the doe being overweight. She did take the third time, but it was a small litter with large kits and she had complications.
I had a four year old buck (not really that old in he scope of things) that would cover this doe, but she just wouldn't take. I tried two times unsuccessfully, and then the third time I threw another doe in with him the same day. Both does took that time, so I know it wasn't my boy going sterile, it was just the doe being overweight. She did take the third time, but it was a small litter with large kits and she had complications.
GBov
Well-known member
If your does are fat you could try slimming them down with hay only for a few days, I have a doe on that diet plan this week.
But no, rabbits are NOT simple to breed!
Says owner of 12, count em, TWELVE junior does that are now 11 months old and not yet bred!
And hey, welcome!
But no, rabbits are NOT simple to breed!
Says owner of 12, count em, TWELVE junior does that are now 11 months old and not yet bred!
And hey, welcome!
A few things that have helped me has been knowing the vent color (either in the meat rabbit or rabbit care thread, can't remember which, but it was labeled judging a doe's readiness ...) and reading on how to hold a doe to 'force breed', which is basically when you have those oh so stubborn does who won't stay still or lift for the buck, even though their vent color is as dark purple as your ever going to see, and you have to hold them in position for the buck.
My breeding age meat doe is one if those, and the only time I ever get kits is when she's force bred. I hate doing it and I won't do it to my angoras to get a litter, but I need freezer meat bunnies! It's not as aggressive as it sounds either, your basically holding the doe so her hind end is properly lifted up for the buck and in a place he can get to it. You can probably get plenty of photos on how to do it by using a google search.
Even when I have to force breed I still get a time or two when my meat momma decides to be clever and stick her tail as far between her legs as it will go, making it impossible. Even when it all goes right she still only takes about every third time. I can't wait for my new meat momma to grow up so I can hopefully replace the stubborn old one! (At the first mention of her possibly ending up in FC, DH jumped behind the cause because he needs a black pelt for his fly tying gear. Probably the only time he ever urged me to buy a new bun!)
My breeding age meat doe is one if those, and the only time I ever get kits is when she's force bred. I hate doing it and I won't do it to my angoras to get a litter, but I need freezer meat bunnies! It's not as aggressive as it sounds either, your basically holding the doe so her hind end is properly lifted up for the buck and in a place he can get to it. You can probably get plenty of photos on how to do it by using a google search.
Even when I have to force breed I still get a time or two when my meat momma decides to be clever and stick her tail as far between her legs as it will go, making it impossible. Even when it all goes right she still only takes about every third time. I can't wait for my new meat momma to grow up so I can hopefully replace the stubborn old one! (At the first mention of her possibly ending up in FC, DH jumped behind the cause because he needs a black pelt for his fly tying gear. Probably the only time he ever urged me to buy a new bun!)
Obesity, lack of light, buck sterility etc. are all reasons for failure to breed. One thing that is sometimes overlooked, however, is nutrition. Even if you are feeding a "complete", good quality pellet, it is quite possible for the diet to be deficient in Vitamin A and Vitamin E, both of which are essential for successful breeding. Pellets contain these vitamins at the point of manufacture, but they can be lost through less-than-optimal or prolonged storage.
Try supplementing your rabbits' diet with some fresh, dark leafy greens. Dandelions leaves and parsley are both excellent and are often available in the produce section of the grocery store. These will supply Vitamin A. If your rabbits are not accustomed to greens, introduce them slowly... just a leaf or two to start and gradually increasing them.
Vitamin E can be added by using wheat germ, wheat germ oil, sunflower seeds etc. You can google to find other sources of Vitamin E rich foods.
Sometimes increasing these vitamins for a few weeks will make a tremendous difference in fertility. Of course, it will only work if the problem is indeed nutritional.
Try supplementing your rabbits' diet with some fresh, dark leafy greens. Dandelions leaves and parsley are both excellent and are often available in the produce section of the grocery store. These will supply Vitamin A. If your rabbits are not accustomed to greens, introduce them slowly... just a leaf or two to start and gradually increasing them.
Vitamin E can be added by using wheat germ, wheat germ oil, sunflower seeds etc. You can google to find other sources of Vitamin E rich foods.
Sometimes increasing these vitamins for a few weeks will make a tremendous difference in fertility. Of course, it will only work if the problem is indeed nutritional.
skysthelimit
Well-known member
Ramjet":1u8zkr35 said:
try 4 mos...
Rabbits do not breed like rabbits.
Welcome to RT!
LOL and it's true... they don't exactly breed like rabbits! (at least when you are wanting to anyway)
In the wild, rabbits don't breed in the winter, so it could be environmental factor that's working against you right now. I'd do what others have recommended
LOL and it's true... they don't exactly breed like rabbits! (at least when you are wanting to anyway)
In the wild, rabbits don't breed in the winter, so it could be environmental factor that's working against you right now. I'd do what others have recommended
