I cant find a German Angora buck for my girls ... so how many generation will it take to be pure german again... I breed to a French angora buck.. What do I keep back and how many times do I have to go .
can i do this
- Thread starter Mary Ann's Rabbitry
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Kyle@theWintertime
Well-known member
I think three generations and you're good. 
So long as they end up looking like they should anyways.
So long as they end up looking like they should anyways.
So help me clear this up...
Pure French buck to German doe : first gen, 50% cross
50% kit to German : second gen, 75% German, 25% French
75% German kit to German: third gen, ~87.5% German, ~12.5% French.
So your saying that the kit in the third gen could be considered a pure German?
I only want clarification because I have a buck who is 75% French and 25% Satin. I don't show, but I don't know if his kits could be sold as show animals and registered if they get any winnings. They would have to be considered pure French. So would his kits be showable/registerable? I doubt that I would show, but I would like a definite answer for my buyers. I would of course disclose that they are not 100% French, but I would love to be able to tell my buyers if they could get away with showing them and registering them or not.
__________ Tue Sep 10, 2013 5:03 pm __________
My buck in question does look pure French
Pure French buck to German doe : first gen, 50% cross
50% kit to German : second gen, 75% German, 25% French
75% German kit to German: third gen, ~87.5% German, ~12.5% French.
So your saying that the kit in the third gen could be considered a pure German?
I only want clarification because I have a buck who is 75% French and 25% Satin. I don't show, but I don't know if his kits could be sold as show animals and registered if they get any winnings. They would have to be considered pure French. So would his kits be showable/registerable? I doubt that I would show, but I would like a definite answer for my buyers. I would of course disclose that they are not 100% French, but I would love to be able to tell my buyers if they could get away with showing them and registering them or not.
__________ Tue Sep 10, 2013 5:03 pm __________
My buck in question does look pure French
I would like to know also.
so if I keep a buck back and use it on its mother and keep going like that for 3 generations.. They will be pure german
so if I keep a buck back and use it on its mother and keep going like that for 3 generations.. They will be pure german
Normally 3 generations of breeding to the SOP is sufficient but The German Angora is not a recognized ARBA breed and have their own registry - http://iagarb.com/iagarb-testing-and-re ... rocedures/
The IAGARB requires a shear test to be registered as a German Angora.
The IAGARB requires a shear test to be registered as a German Angora.
skysthelimit
Well-known member
When you cross, although three generation is all it takes to get the cross off the pedigree, you will lose somethings, and ad somethings in the process, which may take more than three generations to replace or remove. Good thing is, the Wool for German and French is close. My FA/EA crosses lost the face furnishing in one breeding. Just watch closely and let people know what you're selling. The lady I want to get French from crosses her German and French frequently.
Cottie
Well-known member
Interesting. So it's to the owner's benefit to sheer 90 days prior to judging.Dood":gqw76dls said:
Wow, talk about strict.
Yup, I'm happy to stick with my Frenchies!
Yup, I'm happy to stick with my Frenchies!
You need to disclose that it's not 100% but the next task at hand would be could it breed true.
Devon's Mom Lauren
Well-known member
I can't imagine getting 5 pounds of wool off a German!!
Imagine how good they feel when it's sheared off!
Technically you only need a 3 generation pedigree however I do not know any breeders who would buy with only a 3 generation pedigree. Some of my mini rex and champagnes had 10 generation pedigrees. Only those crappy mini rex I bought who grew way too big with big ears and turned violent came with a 3 generation pedigree. Also while on the pedigree it looks like a purebred the animal may not look it so while you could put it on the table the odds of it competing well against rabbits with a longer background are pretty low.
See, this I don't get.
I like the idea of a wool rabbit having to pass a test to be registered. Technically the angora (and rex) is a utility breed so it shouldn't matter about the pedigree but the quality of the fur.
There are lots of purebred and pedigreed animals that are terrible examples of their breeds but they may be excellent working animals.
There's no way to know what the parents looked like and if they had a proper coat so a pedigree is only useful if the ancestors have been shown and won or are register with ARBA or other breed club to be certain that the parents, g.parents etc.. looked like the breed standard according to a judge.
I breed, and all of my stock came with a 3 gen pedigree. I can however go back to one of the breeders I am currently getting stock from and see a lot of who is in my lines, so I know for sure what I'm getting, but that's beside the point as I trust the breeder in question's integrity with her animals.
I do agree with dood, though not 100%. I don't show and don't have any registered stock, so passing a test is not something I find a requirement, but I do agree that utility is key. Who cares if you have a 10 generation pedigree with an angora if for some reason they end up short haired? I know that my rabbits consistently produce between 4 and 6 ounces a molt, which is better than most show stock these days since they've decided to start breeding FA's so little. (Look at the old standard, they dropped the weight a pound when they put the new book out...) With that production, why would I need a 10 generation pedigree?
Not to mention, for those of us who aren't all about technology (and don't want to be!) and still write out our pedigree by hand, ten generations would be excruciating to write by hand. I'd quit keeping pedigreed animals and just sell them for woolers if I had to go through that!
I do agree with dood, though not 100%. I don't show and don't have any registered stock, so passing a test is not something I find a requirement, but I do agree that utility is key. Who cares if you have a 10 generation pedigree with an angora if for some reason they end up short haired? I know that my rabbits consistently produce between 4 and 6 ounces a molt, which is better than most show stock these days since they've decided to start breeding FA's so little. (Look at the old standard, they dropped the weight a pound when they put the new book out...) With that production, why would I need a 10 generation pedigree?
Not to mention, for those of us who aren't all about technology (and don't want to be!) and still write out our pedigree by hand, ten generations would be excruciating to write by hand. I'd quit keeping pedigreed animals and just sell them for woolers if I had to go through that!
skysthelimit
Well-known member
I'll buy without a pedigree if the animal is good enough.
I'll buy a cross bred Wooler (only woolers in the ped though) if the animal is good enough.
I would not buy a Rex with anything but Rex, or a SF with anything but SF though. Woolers have a bit more leeway in that area, since there are 4 recognized.
I'll buy a cross bred Wooler (only woolers in the ped though) if the animal is good enough.
I would not buy a Rex with anything but Rex, or a SF with anything but SF though. Woolers have a bit more leeway in that area, since there are 4 recognized.
