Cage sizing? (UPDATE ON PAGE 2!!!)

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Kyle@theHeathertoft":3v4v8jmx said:
I'm writing up plans for some new cages...would a 30 by 30 inch cage be large enough for an average-sized adult French Angora?
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If you plan to breed, I would go with 36x30 for does and 30x30 or 24x30 for bucks
 
I found this this morning while researching existing USDA requirements for rabbits. I haven't read the whole article yet, but it has some interesting ideas for cages!

It notes that most raisers use .75 square foot per pound of rabbit- so a 10 pound rabbit would require 7.5 sf of floor space- a cage measuring 30" x 36", "though some commercial producers use 30" x 30", especially if they use an early weaning system".

http://www.suagcenter.com/documents/pub ... Manual.pdf
 
If building your own cages, make sure the buy the right width of wire to save yourself some cutting. Your hands will thank you later. ;)
 
http://www.arba.net/PDFs/CAW.pdf The american rabbit breeders asociation recomendations can be found on this page, they are the same as the usda and animal welfare act requirements. Please lets not be saying more is required. Bigger cages might be nicer and work better for some. But if rabbit raisers start saying bigger is required, then the law makers will believe it and then more new regulations.<br /><br />__________ Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:44 am __________<br /><br />Its like saying hardware cloth is not acceptable, it is indeed acceptable to regulations already in place, but if rabbit raisers keep saying its not, the regulations will be changed.
 
W/e the size, make the doors large enough and centered so you can reach the back corners.
 
kyle, a 24" by 24" cage is all that is required for a french angora 4square feet, unless it has a litter, then 6 square foot is required . 30" by 30" is six and quarter square feet. The 4 foot and 6 foot is what is required for meat size breeds. Over the years the 30 by 30 cage has become pretty standard for commercial raisers because it allows them to just put the nest box in the cage with their doe and still meet the requirements for a doe with a litter. Over time some growers choose to use a 30 by 36 inch cage for grow out pens because the rabbits are getting pretty good size by the time they take them away from the doe. But is not a requirement. when you get into the bigger breeds, giant breeds bigger cages are needed.
 
Thanks guys! Gonna try to knock together a very small experiment of cages today...just two for this small block, to see how well I like the layout and placement. I'm dissatisfied with my previous attempts, so if this works well I'll pattern all but my doe-with-litter cages off of this general floorplan. :)
 
I think cage size needs to be the minimum. I think if you have space/room for bigger cages then make them bigger. For instance,, we have Beverens, the lines I have grow to be 10-12 lbs. One breeder uses 30 x 30, another 24 x 30 for bucks. Does go in 30 x 36.

I made ours 36 x 36 for bucks and 36 x 48 for does. Everyone says too big and the does cage is awkward to reach her sometimes but my doors are huge so I can put my head, shoulders and arms in and reach her easily at that point. The rabbits really hop around and stand up and just seem to have fun in the large cages. I hang things for them to grab and play with. They each have some toys to play with and they all play with things I put in there.

My next hutches I may go to 30 by 36 for the bucks. I am unsure at this point because they do seem to like the bigger space and seem to use all of it.

I think it also depends on if the rabbit is spending the majority of their time in the cage or if part of their day is out loose in your house. My dd's Angoras were potty trained and went in a litter box so they were loose alot of each day actually and then for everyday grooming they were out of cages too.

I do agree about the hardware cloth, I remember when people used chicken wire for rabbit cages and have some older books that say to use chicken wire. I think hardware cloth can be acceptable if you have enough support so it doesn't give too much and it is firm. For our hutches I didn't want 1/2 by 1 inch wire, I wanted 1/2 by 1/2 to protect the rabbits more from fox, racoons, coyotes and dogs (we are rural NJ and the neighbors rabbits keep being hurt/killed by the animals at night). I found galv after weld at a farm store but I was willing to buy hardware cloth if I hadn't found exaactly what I wanted.

Alot of cage/hutch size is very objective with how you build it, what you use to build it, size of wire, etc. It really comes down to personal preference for most of it. Rabbits are supposed to be fun and enjoyable so good luck with whatever you build for your bunnies.
 
yeah laura, there was a time when most of the rabbits in the country were in hutches with hardware cloth floors and the smaller size chicken wire around the sides. Most what ive been trying to point out is what the minimum requirements of the usda and animal welfare act.

as far as 36 by 48, that is not required for a 12 lb rabbit, and i think you would need a lot of extra support under the bottom.

I agree that half by half may give a little more protection in some instances, but you have to weigh that with the heavier 14 wire being stronger also. I personaly think i prefer over all the half by one 16 wire. but its not a requirement to get started.
 
I'd have to find the label, the wire is either 14g or 16g. It was just pure luck they had it. Someone had ordered it, it was wrong so the farm store was selling it by the foot so I got a good deal. The 36 x 48 has a support at 2 ft. These are hutches not all wire cages. I have found that when I have some apple branches, or pine the rabbits don't chew their hutches.

My hutches are larger than what is required and I may decrease size a little next hutch since my farm store has no more of that wire and I have only a small piece left. I figured since I had the wire, might as well use it up and just leave the doe with babies until 8 weeks old. I didn't think ahead enough as in another week we are getting another rabbit from NC.

I do like the 1/2 by 1/2 wire though. Droppings fall right through it. Have had no issues with that and our rabbits are good sized. I also think it is probably a little more comfortable to have more support under the feet at any given time. Not saying other sizes are bad but just what my preference is. I am just hoping I can find something that is acceptable to me within the next week. I really don't want to order a huge roll, although I would probably use it up eventually.
 
Well I got out a measuring tape and mapped out sizes, and went with 30-by-24. I made a small experiment cage block of just two cages (one each for my two Angoras, one of which I'm going to be picking up on Sunday...the breeder has been holding her for me, so nice of her!) and I didn't get them totally completed...ran out of J-clips. :roll: Will get more tomorrow and get the dern thing hung. :)

I have decided I like this type of cage better than my first batch but that there's a few design flaws I'll deal with the next time I build a cage block...next will be some very nice cages for some Champagnes. :)

Aaaaaand once the AC unit is back in my window (should be tomorrow) I can chill my room and bring my little pet Lop up to live in my room. :D I'm a sucker for teeny little lops. :)
 
LauraNJ":2hzok2ns said:
I think cage size needs to be the minimum. I think if you have space/room for bigger cages then make them bigger. For instance,, we have Beverens, the lines I have grow to be 10-12 lbs. One breeder uses 30 x 30, another 24 x 30 for bucks. Does go in 30 x 36.

I made ours 36 x 36 for bucks and 36 x 48 for does. Everyone says too big and the does cage is awkward to reach her sometimes but my doors are huge so I can put my head, shoulders and arms in and reach her easily at that point. The rabbits really hop around and stand up and just seem to have fun in the large cages. I hang things for them to grab and play with. They each have some toys to play with and they all play with things I put in there.

My next hutches I may go to 30 by 36 for the bucks. I am unsure at this point because they do seem to like the bigger space and seem to use all of it.

I think it also depends on if the rabbit is spending the majority of their time in the cage or if part of their day is out loose in your house. My dd's Angoras were potty trained and went in a litter box so they were loose alot of each day actually and then for everyday grooming they were out of cages too.

I do agree about the hardware cloth, I remember when people used chicken wire for rabbit cages and have some older books that say to use chicken wire. I think hardware cloth can be acceptable if you have enough support so it doesn't give too much and it is firm. For our hutches I didn't want 1/2 by 1 inch wire, I wanted 1/2 by 1/2 to protect the rabbits more from fox, racoons, coyotes and dogs (we are rural NJ and the neighbors rabbits keep being hurt/killed by the animals at night). I found galv after weld at a farm store but I was willing to buy hardware cloth if I hadn't found exaactly what I wanted.

Alot of cage/hutch size is very objective with how you build it, what you use to build it, size of wire, etc. It really comes down to personal preference for most of it. Rabbits are supposed to be fun and enjoyable so good luck with whatever you build for your bunnies.
Click to expand...





Where in "rural NJ"?<br /><br />__________ Sat Jun 30, 2012 3:45 am __________<br /><br />
LauraNJ":2hzok2ns said:
I think cage size needs to be the minimum. I think if you have space/room for bigger cages then make them bigger. For instance,, we have Beverens, the lines I have grow to be 10-12 lbs. One breeder uses 30 x 30, another 24 x 30 for bucks. Does go in 30 x 36.

I made ours 36 x 36 for bucks and 36 x 48 for does. Everyone says too big and the does cage is awkward to reach her sometimes but my doors are huge so I can put my head, shoulders and arms in and reach her easily at that point. The rabbits really hop around and stand up and just seem to have fun in the large cages. I hang things for them to grab and play with. They each have some toys to play with and they all play with things I put in there.

My next hutches I may go to 30 by 36 for the bucks. I am unsure at this point because they do seem to like the bigger space and seem to use all of it.

I think it also depends on if the rabbit is spending the majority of their time in the cage or if part of their day is out loose in your house. My dd's Angoras were potty trained and went in a litter box so they were loose alot of each day actually and then for everyday grooming they were out of cages too.

I do agree about the hardware cloth, I remember when people used chicken wire for rabbit cages and have some older books that say to use chicken wire. I think hardware cloth can be acceptable if you have enough support so it doesn't give too much and it is firm. For our hutches I didn't want 1/2 by 1 inch wire, I wanted 1/2 by 1/2 to protect the rabbits more from fox, racoons, coyotes and dogs (we are rural NJ and the neighbors rabbits keep being hurt/killed by the animals at night). I found galv after weld at a farm store but I was willing to buy hardware cloth if I hadn't found exaactly what I wanted.

Alot of cage/hutch size is very objective with how you build it, what you use to build it, size of wire, etc. It really comes down to personal preference for most of it. Rabbits are supposed to be fun and enjoyable so good luck with whatever you build for your bunnies.
Click to expand...





Where in "rural NJ"?
 
Quick update...really glad I made an experiment-block of just two cages, my goal was to have several four to six cage blocks, right???

YEAH WELL, only a two-cage block will go up or down the basement stairs. :x I will totally line them up in rows when done and hung, but...good to know NOW before I go to the trouble and expense of making lots more!!!!!!!!
 
That is too funny, Kyle!

I bet your landlord would have been thrilled though... "I will have Kyle as a tenant forever if he can't remove his bunnies! Mwa-ha-ha-ha-HAH!!! :twisted: "
 
LOL, landlord declared bankruptcy, she's losing the house. :lol: I'll be renting from the bank soon. Fortunately all the rules stay the same...so I can have as many critters as I want. :mrgreen:

Pictures to follow!!!!<br /><br />__________ Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:18 pm __________<br /><br />OKAY, SO!!! My "test" cages will soon be outdated...looks like I will be moving back in with my dad for a few years, and this means I need to start building some outdoor hutches! :) It'll be nice to have the buns outside, I think. Some of the materials (re-purposed wood for example) are kinda funny-shaped...so here's my New and Improved line of cage sizing questions.

First............size, again! :lol: With the blocks of wood I'm looking at, each cage would be either 36 x 20 or 37 x 20. Is that enough space??? I know a 20-inch width isn't awesome but will the added depth make up for it???

The rough plans for the hutch will be two-tiered and three of the four sides will be solid. The top of each tier will be solid and they will be on inch-by-half-inch wire flooring. Does that seem acceptable?

My dad does have a sprinkler system. I've chosen a corner of the yard where there's less spray, and I've figure out that if I lean a section of wood at an angle on one corner of the hutch, nobody will be sprayed with water...but as Murphy's law dictates, if it can go wrong it will. If the plank ever falls or whatever, a little water won't hurt right??? I mean, rabbits in the wild have been rained on forever and this'd be like...a spritz with a water bottle, not a soaking. I've already decided, too, that the Angoras will go on the top tier, well out of the reach of the sprinklers, just in case!

Thoughts? :)
 
20 by 36 is five square feet ,perfectly fine for a large adult breed rabbit, but just a little small for a doe with a litter, unless the nest box is on the outside , that would add extra floor space. One thing to consider with a narrow outdoor hutch is the style and shape of your roof, rain rarely comes strait down, most times its at an angle. A narrow hutch can sometimes limit the rabbits ability too get out of the rain unless there is a proper overhang on the hutch roof. The taller the wire on the front or sides of your hutch, the more over hang you need on your roof.

I have one long narrow hutch, 20 by 48, to keep the rabbit dry i made the back wall plywood, two doors on the front since its so long. During the winter months i just cover half the length with a plywood panel.The doe thats in it positions her food and water dishes in the center and does laps , she seems to like the longer cage.

another thing to think about on an outdoor hutch is feeders on the outside of the hutch have a tendency to get rained on unless properly covered.
 

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