cage numbers

[jasper]

hi again

ive just got a quick question regarding how many separate enclosures i will need to start my back yard bunny farm. i have in mind that if i was to have three then that would mean 1 cage for mom 1 cage for dad and 1 for the litter.

any thoughts appreciated

j

 

[ZRabbits]

Hi again,

Best to start out with at least 5 enclosures. Though you might not fill them all at first (sounds like you are getting a buck and doe) but having the extra space for future breeders helps.

It's a good idea to house each rabbit (breeders) separately, unless you decide to go with a "colony" setting. Then you need a big area so there is no fighting for territory.

Karen

 

[3mina]

I agree, five is good for just starting out, that way you have a separate grow out pen for each sex

 

[mystang89]

I've started out with 5. Seemed a good number. 2 bucks 3 does, didnt' feel like too many but not too few either.

 

[wsmoak]

If you are starting with a trio, then four or five cages will work... for a while.

Eventually you'll want to choose some replacements from your litters, and you'll need somewhere to grow them out past when you'd normally process them for meat.

I'm doing Californians and NZW's for backyard meat production, planning to keep four does and two bucks. For that it's looking like 10-12 cages will work.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I would start with as many cages as you can fit and afford. Galloping Rabbitosis is inevitable when you have rabbits... there will be kits that you want to keep for future breeders and you will be surprised by how soon you will find yourself wishing you had more cages. I started with 12 doe cages and 12 buck cages, and have since built 14 growout pens, and I want (NEED!) more cages!

It is best to have at least two does so they can be bred at the same time so you have the option of fostering litters if one doe is not a good mother. This is pretty tricky when you only have two- I never could synchronize mine when I started out, but now that I have over a dozen in production I always breed two or three the same day.

Older bucks suffer more from "heat sterility" in the summer months than young bucks, so it is a good idea to have a younger buck on hand. Also, rabbits do die at the most inconvenient times, so having a couple of extra producers is a good idea.

You will want two growout cages for each litter or set of litters so you can separate the kits by sex. Life tends to get in the way of the best laid plans, and you may find that your butchering date came and went, and suddenly you have pregnant junior does.

Good luck with your bunny farm!

 

[Mickey328]

Okay, y'all are making me re-think this! I'm planning 2 does and a buck to start (it's just for DH and me, so we don't need lots of meat) I'd planned on getting 4 cages 24 x 36...one for each and a grow out pen. Do you think we should get 6 rather than 4 cages? I figured at some point, we'd likely need more, but they're a bit pricey for our budget just now, and we really don't have any place to store them

 

[3mina]

Mickey, you start where you're comfortable, if you can start with four cages then you do. You just have to plan a little more carefully. I would personally have two grow out pens so you can separate the sexes to avoid accidental pregnancies in the meat pen

 

[-HRanchito]

Maybe this isn't the best thing, but in addition to my 6 actual rabbit cages, I have: a modified bird cage, a modified dog kennel, and a modified chicken brooder from when my last litter of kits were growing out. I recommend a stroll around the thrift store. You will find solutions when you need them. They might not be the shiniest accommodations, but the bunnies won't mind too much as long as it's clean.

 

[Mickey328]

Oh dear, I hadn't thought about separating the litters by sex. Whew, sure glad I have y'all to help me out! Let me get to a few more specifics so I have it firmly in mind...the fewer mistakes I can make, the better. We may be going to butcher and eat them but I want them to have a good, if short, life. So...assuming we butcher at 10 weeks (is that about right?) They stay with momma how long? I thought about 6 weeks or so. If so, would you separate them by sex when you move them from momma to the grow out pen(s)? If that's the case, then we'll probably go with 5 cages so we can have 2 grow out pens.

And thanks for the tip! If they're only in a separate cage for a month, I reckon it doesn'thave to be a luxury condo, LOL. We never hit a thrift store (or CL) without checking for stuff like that. Glad we did since we recently had to segregate one of our chickens for a while and was glad we had a couple of dog crates to house her in till her leg healed.

 

[3mina]

Mickey, butchering age depends on what size carcass you want. A lot of people go by weight rather than age, the rule of thumb (modified for personal preference) is five pounds live weight to get a three pound carcass. Some breeds do better than others for live weight vs dress out but again it depends on what you want to do.

 

[wsmoak]

Don't stress about it -- if four cages is what works for you right now, then do that for your trio. You'll be fine.

I haven't bothered separating rabbits I'm going to process at 12 weeks... they'd have to be *very* early developers to have an issue by then.

That and when I check them I think they're all does anyway!

(One thing before you order... if you think you may want to build your own cages in the future, maybe some two-story growout cages or something unusual, then buy a pair of the *good* J-clip pliers when you get your cages.)

-Wendy

 

[Mickey328]

Thanks, Wendy. At this point, we don't plan on keeping them past 12 weeks or retaining any for breeding. I'm sure that'll change in the future, though

 

[tm_bunnyloft]

If you get a cage for each doe and the buck, that is three cages. YOu could always build two ground colony pens for the grow out pens. You could build them outside or in the corner of a shed or garage.

 

[Mickey328]

Thanks, TM...more food for thought

 

[GBov]

I butcher between 8 adn 10 weeks and, mostly due to cage space (or the lack of same) the kits stay with mamma until butcher day.

By week 16 I get fighting in the grow outs so, as long as I process before then, all is well.

Get the cages you can afford and like, make sure they have HUGE doors to make handling large meat rabbits easier for you and then have fun.

And no amount of cages is enough so you may as well start with three or four, I started with 6, am up to 25 and am always crushed for space. :roll: Need about double that now, well, want anyway :lol:

 

[Wheels]

I started with 2 bucks and 2 does and 5 cages. One year later I have 10 keepers (3 bucks and 7 does) 11 cages, wire and frames to build four more grow-out pens and an order in with Bass Equipment for 5 more cages!

 

[GBov]

I started with 2 bucks and 2 does and 5 cages. One year later I have 10 keepers (3 bucks and 7 does) 11 cages, wire and frames to build four more grow-out pens and an order in with Bass Equipment for 5 more cages!

WHOOOOOOSH you go down the slippery slope! :lol:

Today I cull EVERYTHING that is left from my start in rabbits, all mutt blood is going away today. With no more room to fit anymore cages ruthless culling is now my only option if I want new rabbits.

Ooooo rabbit livers for dinner tonight!

If rabbits grab your interest by the throat (as it were) you will find them endlessly interesting and intertaining animals but you might find your family gets the glazed eye look when you talk about them. And talk about them, and talk about them, and talk about them.......................

Thank GOODNESS for Rabbit Talk! :lol: