Breeding to the strong points within your herd.

[3mina]

Actually, it makes them really simple, you've got the same names popping up over and over.
Yup, the 'bad' traits go to freezer camp sooner is all and the better the rabbits you start with the less likely you are to have the 'bad' stuff come up.

 

[skysthelimit]

I cull anything for any reason.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

I have three doe lines in my barn, Roxie, Big Mama, Little Mama. Roxie is an easy breeder, easy kindler, excellent milker and makes outstanding kits, average in shape. Big Mama is the same, but she is 10lbs of solid meat brick bunny with fantastic shoulders and hindquarters. Little Mama is also a great mother and has super nice fur and coloration, with massive hindquarters, but slightly weak shoulders. All have sweet dispositions. I combine them and their offspring to take advantage of the best traits of each.

 

[grumpy]

I'm starting with some very good show stock in rabbits. The issue I am seeing so far is slower growth rates. I have not gotten a 5lb rabbit in 12 weeks yet. I need to pick my best to keep in the next couple breedings and possibly retire the buck and one doe that I have now.

I don't need beautiful rabbits, I need meaty brick rabbits that will reach 5lbs in 12 weeks.

Joe

Joe: I kind of "cheat" when I'm going just for fast weight-gain in a group of fryers. I've got a very good Californian Buck that's a coming 3 year old. I'll use him on my NZW does that produce good litters. Those youngsters really put on the weight and finish out a little quicker than purebreds. I've kept track of some of these litters and they'll hit 5+ pounds in 11 or 12 weeks. Personally, I prefer a smaller/younger rabbit for my own consumption. But, the 5 pounders are what my processor wants.

I've got two or three purebred Cal does that are crossed with my NZW bucks and they give me decent fryers as well. I'm going to breed a few litters of purebred Cals this fall and will hold 4 or 5 young bucks out and let them get to about 5 months old before I pick one or two for breeders. I don't keep any crossbreds for breeding stock.

All of my does are tattooed with numbers....My bucks each get their own name in their ear. The bucks are like a group of young pups whenever I walk down the rows of cages. They actually make small "huffing" sounds wanting a pat or a scratch between their ears. I keep them real tame and they pay me no mind whenever I restrain a doe for them.

I won't use a buck much before he's 8 or 9 months old. I like to let them get a little more mature before they take on the rigors of being a stud buck. They're not as apt to be intimidated at this age rather than 5 or 6 months old. However, I still keep a very close eye on them their first few times with a doe. "Fonzy" just "came of age" this past week. Now, whenever I carry a doe past his cage to another buck's pen, he's hanging on the wire like a starving convict!!! "Aw-w-w come on, Pop! I can do the job for ya!" LOL.

grumpy.

 

[Mary Ann's Rabbitry]

Now, whenever I carry a doe past his cage to another buck's pen, he's hanging on the wire like a starving convict!!! "Aw-w-w come on, Pop! I can do the job for ya!" LOL.

I laught so hard at that. I thought it was so cute. I can picture that. I had a buck when i go
pass his cage. He will jump back and forth fast. So i thought of that buck when you mentioned that. LOL

 

[OneAcreFarm]

I'm starting with some very good show stock in rabbits. The issue I am seeing so far is slower growth rates. I have not gotten a 5lb rabbit in 12 weeks yet. I need to pick my best to keep in the next couple breedings and possibly retire the buck and one doe that I have now.

I don't need beautiful rabbits, I need meaty brick rabbits that will reach 5lbs in 12 weeks.

No, what you need is meat bricks that reach 5lbs by 8-9 weeks. That is the standard to shoot for,unless you are raising them pastured, in grazing pens.

 

[grumpy]

I'm starting with some very good show stock in rabbits. The issue I am seeing so far is slower growth rates. I have not gotten a 5lb rabbit in 12 weeks yet. I need to pick my best to keep in the next couple breedings and possibly retire the buck and one doe that I have now.

I don't need beautiful rabbits, I need meaty brick rabbits that will reach 5lbs in 12 weeks.

No, what you need is meat bricks that reach 5lbs by 8-9 weeks. That is the standard to shoot for,unless you are raising them pastured, in grazing pens.

Altex??? I've thought of that breeding. But to get pure Altex it would take a trip to Texas to get the "real" stuff. I've seen ads for Altex around other areas of the country, but I'm hesitant.

My very best Cals and NZW's, straight or mixed, won't make 5 lbs. in nine weeks. Maybe a litter of 6, but not 8, 9, or 10. I workin' towards that goal but still quite a ways from it. "BOB" may do the trick!! He's NZW that tips the scales at well over 11 pounds. I've thought of trying to find a small saddle for him. LOL

Years ago, the "standard" was a respectable 4+ pounds @8 weeks. It seems the bar keeps getting raised as time continues forward. Keeping the meat breeds pure and breeding the bigger to the bigger without the sacrifice of muscle-mass to bone density ratio, we might one day reach that goal.

To reach this goal, however, we will be taking the seniors far past the weight limits set for their standard.
grumpy.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

I'm starting with some very good show stock in rabbits. The issue I am seeing so far is slower growth rates. I have not gotten a 5lb rabbit in 12 weeks yet. I need to pick my best to keep in the next couple breedings and possibly retire the buck and one doe that I have now.

I don't need beautiful rabbits, I need meaty brick rabbits that will reach 5lbs in 12 weeks.

No, what you need is meat bricks that reach 5lbs by 8-9 weeks. That is the standard to shoot for,unless you are raising them pastured, in grazing pens.

Altex??? I've thought of that breeding. But to get pure Altex it would take a trip to Texas to get the "real" stuff. I've seen ads for Altex around other areas of the country, but I'm hesitant.

My very best Cals and NZW's, straight or mixed, won't make 5 lbs. in nine weeks. Maybe a litter of 6, but not 8, 9, or 10. I workin' towards that goal but still quite a ways from it. "BOB" may do the trick!! He's NZW that tips the scales at well over 11 pounds. I've thought of trying to find a small saddle for him. LOL

Years ago, the "standard" was a respectable 4+ pounds @8 weeks. It seems the bar keeps getting raised as time continues forward. Keeping the meat breeds pure and breeding the bigger to the bigger without the sacrifice of muscle-mass to bone density ratio, we might one day reach that goal.

To reach this goal, however, we will be taking the seniors far past the weight limits set for their standard.
grumpy.

Very hard to find real Altex anymore since A&M isn't breeding them now. And the other breeders that have them aren't keeping them pure. I have Cals that will reach 5lbs in 9wks easy. I have been selecting for heavy 56 and 70 day weights to keep as breeders, looking at hindquarters, shoulders, etc. The kits grow very well.

 

[grumpy]

Very hard to find real Altex anymore since A&M isn't breeding them now. And the other breeders that have them aren't keeping them pure. I have Cals that will reach 5lbs in 9wks easy. I have been selecting for heavy 56 and 70 day weights to keep as breeders, looking at hindquarters, shoulders, etc. The kits grow very well.

Dang!!! I bet they are some tanks!! How many kits do you average per litter? I didn't know A&M had quit the Altex.

My "perfect-doe" would be one that has 8 good sized kits every litter. Be an excellent milker with a gentle disposition. With a high kit-per-litter count average you can reach a point of diminishing return.

grumpy

 

[OneAcreFarm]

Here is an example....

This is a doe, about 10wks old, right at 5.25lbs

 

[Joe n TN]

That's some very, very good stock you have there at the One Acre Farm! I wish I still lived in Texas to come visit you.

There is a breeder about 45-50 mins from me that has pure Altex bucks. I have thought about getting one, but my 5 hole rabbitry makes it hard to justify the expense...but wait, I just re-checked their website and they are asking $60 for a buck and $40 for a doe....

I have some thinking to do...

Joe

 

[grumpy]

The biggest mistake folks have made in the past is to "Blend" the Altex blood into their breeding stock. THIS IS A BIG NO-NO! Altex should be used as a "terminal-sire" only. Meaning breed the Altex buck to your production does and sell ALL of the youngsters for processing only!! The fryers have a phenomenal weight gain to finish weight, but they are inferior as breeders.

I bought 10 does and 2 bucks from the Amish a few years ago. None survived my culling process with breeding and consistency. I finally figured out "why" this was so. I used a buck out of one of the "better" does as a stud-buck. His youngsters looked good, but they had the long sloping ears that laid towards the front of their noses. Classic Altex trait. His sisters were slow to breed and gave me problems about a quick breed back. All were culled....with none being sold as brood stock.

grumpy

 

[OneAcreFarm]

That's some very, very good stock you have there at the One Acre Farm! I wish I still lived in Texas to come visit you.

There is a breeder about 45-50 mins from me that has pure Altex bucks. I have thought about getting one, but my 5 hole rabbitry makes it hard to justify the expense...but wait, I just re-checked their website and they are asking $60 for a buck and $40 for a doe....

I have some thinking to do...

Joe

Just make sure that are TRUE Altex, make them show you peds that reflect they came from TAMUK or U of A stock. Lots of people out there copying the "recipe" and selling F1 and F2 "Altex"....it took the creators over 30 generations of selecting for the traits they wanted before beginning to sell them.

And Grumpy is 100% correct. Only use the doe to breed to the Altex buck for more Altex and only use the Altex buck to your production does and all the litters go as fryers....do NOT keep any back to breed.

 

[fishdip]

wrong place sorry.

 

[ohiogoatgirl]

very very interesting thread!

 

[WildWolf]

This thread is really helpful! I have one question... what makes a pair a good match? what would 'compliment' each other?

 

[ZRabbits]

I have found that using a base line helps. Structure is the key. As long as you good structure, (hips, ears, jaw, spine and head). Regarding a good breeding, knowing your buck is smaller than your doe, will alleviate birthing issues.

With my lion heads, my buck, Neville is the structure that is complete (head, ears, mane, body). My doe, Luna, has head, ears, body, but her ears are longer. She's a bit larger than Neville structure wise. I was given excellent advise to make sure that my breeding program would be sucessful as it could be expected from a novice, which I am.

Health is also a big factor. Along with genetic line. Know their parents, make sure digestive problems are not an issue and I think that will start you on the road to what you want.

Karen

 

[WildWolf]

Thanks!

 

[3mina]

Wildwolf, another area to keep in mind is making sure both rabbits don't have the same faults. In meat rabbits this would mean making sure that if one has shoulder faults that the other doesn't, for example.

 

[WildWolf]

Thanks 3mina!