Basic hutch questions from a newbie

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Rabbit Talk Forum

Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
bunny bun buns

bunny bun buns

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2023
Messages
8
Reaction score
2
Location
Nelson County, Virginia
Hi all! Longtime chicken keeper, soon to be first time rabbit keeper :) We are making plans to build our first rabbit hutch and have a couple basic questions if anyone would be kind enough to answer or point me in the right direction.

Assuming a medium-size breed to be kept as a pet, I'm thinking a 2'x6' hutch where 1/3 of the space is dedicated to its quiet resting/sleeping area and the rest is where it may hang out, eat, relieve itself, etc. The flooring will be 1/2" x 1" coated wire with bedding in the sleeping area. There will be a ramp for the bunny to use to go down to the earthen floor and from there access a larger run.

  1. Is this enough space for one rabbit? Two?
  2. Will the rabbit(s) be satisfied with the sleeping area, or does each rabbit need its own nesting box within that space?

Thank you!
 
Welcome!

It sounds like you haven’t bought rabbits yet so you don’t know how many you will have. Is that correct? The dimensions sound ok based on standard hutch sizes but I’m asking because you don’t say whether the animals are intact or fixed. (Are they breeding stock, or neutered?) Breeding animals will need more space or will need to be kept separate given the small size of the hutch area.

Rabbits don’t really use nests (that I know of anyway) unless they are kindling does or it is extremely cold out (considerably subzero), which it probably doesn’t get to in Virginia very often. Our rabbits sleep anywhere inside their house, which is a 6x8 ft shed with multiple levels. They sleep wherever they want and don’t recognize a sleeping area per se.

Overall, the more space you can provide, the better. Rabbits are very active if you give them space. Ours were previously hutch rabbits and immediately adjusted to use the full size of their 6x8 house, in addition to a substantial outdoor area during the day.

The size wire you propose is too large in the openings to exclude mice and potentially weasels, and other critters from gnawing at exposed rabbit toes so if your hutch is not going to be inside a predator proof building, you should consider using smaller mesh size. We use 1/2 inch hardware cloth, which works well against a wide range of potential predators. Our biggest problem has been from rattlesnakes and the 1/2 works on them. We do occasionally catch weasels in traps, and 1/2 inch protects against weasels too. Hardware cloth is too coarse to use for rabbit flooring probably so others will need to tell you what type of wire to use on the floor. Our floor is stall mats. Lots of people here have a lot more knowledge of rabbit cage needs than I because we don’t use cages. I thought I’d chime in since no one else has responded to your questions yet.

This sounds exciting though! Rabbits are great! We started with chickens and ducks (6 years) and got rabbits this year and we love them.

I’d love to know what breed you are getting, if you don’t mind sharing.
 
If you keep a bunny for a pet get 2, they are in many ways herd/group animals although they tend to want a sleeping place for themselves unless they are doe with kits. Over 4-6 months introductions and keeping non-littermates together is more complicated (esp. when not fixed, hormones drive irritations and conflict). If you can get 2 that are fixed and put them together in a big enough pen that is neutral territory and doesn't smell of either rabbit. Along with multiple places to hide and get out of sight from eachother.

Size pen depends, but keep in mind that a hutch deeper than 2 feet/60cm is a pain due to how long most peoples arms are. Minimum height is about 1 foot 8 for the same reasons. Other than that bunny needs to be able to at least sit up without flattening it's ears on the ceiling.

Advice breed wise, nothing with lop ears (more prone to infections) or really small ears (ears regulate bodyheat since rabbits don't sweat). I wouldn't want a coat that needs brushing due to length either. So pick a no worries breed coat and ears wise, gives you more time for other stuff that helps turn a rabbit into a real pet to interact with rather than just a private tv-channel (however entertaining that can be).
 
Thank you both for your thoughtful, helpful replies!

We have not yet decided on a breed - still doing research on housing and general care. We do not intend to start out breeding, so fixed bunnies are what we're after. In addition to the good thoughts Tambayo provided on physical characteristics, I am open to any suggestions you might have on specific breeds, too!

This will be an outdoor setup, similar to some of the shed roof "rabbit tractors" you might find with an internet image search. I imagine the upstairs would have the 2' x 2' x 2' sleeping area and a 2' x 4' x 2' sheltered (closed on three sides) play area with access to the downstairs (earth) and a protected run. From there the rabbits would have access to a larger area of grass bound by chicken wire to keep them contained.

Regarding floor material, I read in other threads on this forum that 1/2" x 1" wire is a good mesh material that won't hurt their hocks.

Thanks for the warm welcome!
 
As for breed consideration - a few can have problems with wire floors, like very big breeds or Rex furred rabbits.
Apart from that the differences from individual characters can be bigger than differences of breeds, although if you get to know the rabbitry and their line generally is friendly chances are good that yours are friendly and relaxed too, a lot of behaviour is genetic.

Since you want them as pets, neutered rabbits sure are easier. You might want to check out local rescue or shelter if you can get a bonded pair of neutered rabbits, apart from the cost there always is a little risk with every surgery.
 
1/2" x 1" wire is great for floors. The first part of the hutch that will rot out is the floor so make that part easy to replace and it will save effort later.

We use a lot of used refrigerator racks for walls and doors. We can get them for free which is why they get used.

Not sure what predators are in your area, but making the hutch and bunny yard predator proof is important.

Frequently, two females can cohabitate in a friendly manner. Generally, two bucks won't. However, a buck is frequently a friendlier bunny than a doe. I hope you noted all the modifiers to those statements, since all bunnies are pretty much their own critters and don't always get the memo on how they're supposed to be.

Rex, mini-rex, Netherland dwarf, Holland lop, lionhead, etc., are all good pet breeds, although I've not kept any of them. The bunnies here are English angora and kept for their wool.

Oh, also, when building a bunny hutch, keep in mind that bunny 'berries' are some of the best fertilizer you can get your hands on for a garden. We let the berries fall below the hutches and when preparing the garden, they're scooped up and the top 6" of the garden is heavily dressed with bunny manure. It's a cold manure and doesn't need to be aged before use.
 
If you have a chicken wire exercise run, you have to dig the wire down into the ground. Otherwise the buns will dig out in nothing flat! They are great diggers.
If you put chicken wire down over the grass as a floor, they can't dig out but you have to move it often or the grass will be gone and have to be regrown, especially where their poop spot is. If you can get them to use a litter box in the exercise areas that helps.
 
Preitler said:
Since you want them as pets, neutered rabbits sure are easier. You might want to check out local rescue or shelter if you can get a bonded pair of neutered rabbits, apart from the cost there always is a little risk with every surgery.
Click to expand...
Just a heads-up regarding neutering:

I know there are plenty of pleasant neutered rabbits out there, but we've had some bad experiences with neutered bucks. A neutered male can end up with female behaviors, especially territoriality. We had a neutered buck, and have known a number of other people with neutered males, that attacked people when their cages were opened, like a hormonal doe will do. At least three of these bucks had no such issues previous to neutering; I don't know about the others.

The neutered rabbit we had came to us that way; he was sweet as pie outside the cage but would launch at and latch onto my daughter's hand every time she opened the cage door.

Two of our friends' were neutered to stop them spraying (one it helped, the other it didn't). The others were neutered to try to get them to bond with another rabbit (that failed in both cases). All of these rabbits were a royal pain to get out to play with, and one even started biting outside of the cage.

None of these animals were abused, and all were being handled by experienced owners who did not have trouble with their other rabbits.

I've never dealt with a neutered female, but I always tell people that if they like their intact buck's personality, think twice before neutering!
 
RabbitsOfTheCreek, we will not raise rabbits for showing or meat. We raise meat chickens and are learning to hunt squirrels, wild rabbits, and deer. These will be pets and fertilizer producers :)

Preitler, thank you for suggesting rescues. I just checked our local SPCA and they have a few lionheads. I'll research some rescues in our region, too.

Hotzcatz, oh we totally anticipate making use of the manure. We rotate our chickens through the big gardens but the little footprint of the hutch will allow us to place it over the various smaller plots we have for fertilization. Thank you for your other suggestions as well. We've got experience protecting our chickens from local predators (possums, racoons, foxes, bears, coyotes, and bobcats).

Sapphire16, thanks for the tip about their digging. I didn't realize they would dig under the fence. I want the larger run to be moveable, so I may need to figure something out for that.

Alaska Satin, thank you for sharing your experience. I will keep this in mind.

I appreciate everyone's help. Thank you!
 
Hi again! My daughter and I are going to pick up the materials this weekend to start building our rabbit hutch. I'm having a hard time finding 1"x1/2" 14 gauge (preferably coated) welded wire, however. I'm finding plenty of 16 gauge uncoated. We really only need about a 2'x4' piece. Whether we end up with 14 or 16 gauge we will have a resting mat. Still haven't settled on a breed but it won't be a particularly large one.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to source this material in smaller quantities? Thank you!
 
Last edited:
bunny bun buns said:
Hi all! Longtime chicken keeper, soon to be first time rabbit keeper :) We are making plans to build our first rabbit hutch and have a couple basic questions if anyone would be kind enough to answer or point me in the right direction.

Assuming a medium-size breed to be kept as a pet, I'm thinking a 2'x6' hutch where 1/3 of the space is dedicated to its quiet resting/sleeping area and the rest is where it may hang out, eat, relieve itself, etc. The flooring will be 1/2" x 1" coated wire with bedding in the sleeping area. There will be a ramp for the bunny to use to go down to the earthen floor and from there access a larger run.

  1. Is this enough space for one rabbit? Two?
  2. Will the rabbit(s) be satisfied with the sleeping area, or does each rabbit need its own nesting box within that space?

Thank you!
Click to expand...
Are you planning to breed? I am of the opinion that you should offer your animals as much space as you can afford for their health and well being. The more space you can give them the better. I keep mine in tractors that we can move around the grass to allow for them to graze. This is not necessary, but it will benefit them as they can move and actually run a bit. My tractors are 8 ft x 3ft with a 2ft hutch that is halfway up from the bottom so the entire 8ft bottom is open for grazing. The hutch is made so they can jump into it, which gives them a bit more exercise. I have watch mine run circles around the tractor and take flying leaps into the hutch! When winter comes I simply made a bottom and elevated the tractors on cinder blocks so they didn't have to be in the elements during the sloppy wet season. Hope this helps. Good luck
 
Hi Rabbittracks,

We're not looking to breed with this setup. Just keeping them as pets, fertilizer, and for the experience. Your setup sounds fun and I'd love to see any pictures if you're willing to share. We also plan to give the two bunnies access to the ground and a run. The basic design we have in mind is a 2'x6 foot upstairs (2' off the ground) where 2'x2' is an enclosed nesting space and the other 4'x2' is surrounded by hardware cloth for fresh air and view. There will be a ladder so they can access a protected area on the ground directly beneath the hutch. From there, when supervised, they'll have the option to a larger run area fenced in by chicken wire. We expect to move them around our various gardens and grassy areas.
 
bunny bun buns said:
Hi Rabbittracks,

We're not looking to breed with this setup. Just keeping them as pets, fertilizer, and for the experience. Your setup sounds fun and I'd love to see any pictures if you're willing to share. We also plan to give the two bunnies access to the ground and a run. The basic design we have in mind is a 2'x6 foot upstairs (2' off the ground) where 2'x2' is an enclosed nesting space and the other 4'x2' is surrounded by hardware cloth for fresh air and view. There will be a ladder so they can access a protected area on the ground directly beneath the hutch. From there, when supervised, they'll have the option to a larger run area fenced in by chicken wire. We expect to move them around our various gardens and grassy areas.
Click to expand...
That actually sounds like a great set up! I have attached a pic. of our tractors. The bottom is completely open with just a rim of fencing around the edge to discourage them from digging I move the tractors 2x's a day. Once in the early morning and once late at night and check their water.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2652.PNG
    IMG_2652.PNG
    3.6 MB
Tractor supply has the flooring wire and 16 gauge has been fine for us.

How exciting!! Choosing your breed is so much fun. There are so many to choose from. I personally don’t neuter mine because the outcome is rarely what the goal was.

Really sounds like you’ve put a lot of thought into it and your rabbits will thank you for it. They really do appreciate the extra space. Excellent setup!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top