Bad teeth in my herd? Can I fix it?

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Shea

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I lost both of my original herd does earlier this year do to molar malalignment. They were 5yrs old. My entire herd is based on them. I have had to cull more then a few since do to this molar issue. Wether @ 6 months or the latest didnt show it till 2 yrs.
Is there anyway to tell before hand which buns will develop this? I don't want to loose 4 yrs of breeding projects.
 
what type of tooth issue are you seeing? Just curious about tooth issue you are seeing at 2 years old. And are you sure it's genetic? What type of issue did your two breeders come up with?

It might be just as simple as bringing in a new buck every year. Tooth issues tend to be recessive and require two copies to show up. so if you switch out the genetics on one side... you should fight against it better.
 
Back molar on their left. In my breeders the tooth had curled around the Outside of the jaw. I had one buck from an oops breed, litter mates, not be able to eat by 6 months his were so bad. It always presents in that spot.
The problem with bringing in a new buck, which I need to do. Is Finding one. Standard satins are not easy to come by here. Plenty of minis, no standards.
 
Current doe with this issues is just going on 2. Started developing multiple abscess in the same location. Cleaned then out and managed to feel the molar. Overgrown and angeled.
 
There's a pedigree program called 'Kintracks' which has a 'coefficient of inbreeding' button which will calculate the percentage of inbreeding between any two rabbits you select. It's an inexpensive program, about $20 in Australian dollars - which at this time is much less in U.S. dollars. It might be worth while to track how inbred the rabbits are and try to keep the level down.
 
There's a pedigree program called 'Kintracks' which has a 'coefficient of inbreeding' button which will calculate the percentage of inbreeding between any two rabbits you select. It's an inexpensive program, about $20 in Australian dollars - which at this time is much less in U.S. dollars. It might be worth while to track how inbred the rabbits are and try to keep the level down.
I have it. Though I have not kept my records up lately. I will update and see. But at this point I will Need to bring in new blood.
 
The biggest problem with recessives like this, is that if you start off with stock with the double recessive gene, they have nothing else they can contribute to their offspring. So even if you use a non-related, non-recessive buck, every single kit will be a carrier. They probably won't have the tooth issue themselves, as it usually takes two recessive copies to manifest, but every kit will carry a copy of the curled tooth recessive. You may go years without seeing any bad teeth when outcrossed to a non-carrier buck. The problem however may come back to bite you when you start breeding offspring from that original doe, as each kit has a 50/50 chance of passing the recessive on to the next generation. Since you're having trouble finding outcross stock already, you're more likely to use one of your own bucks years down the line, and yes, it could happen again. Not only that, but any stock you sell from the original crosses would definitely be carrying the recessive trait, which could be a disaster for other breeders who have now introduced this into their herd.

I'm sorry to say this, culling is so hard in so many ways, but I really wouldn't use that line. You might be able to contact a breeder with standard Satins that lives elsewhere but competes at a show somewhat near you, and arrange for them to bring rabbits for sale when they come. Or, a breeder may be making a trip out your way, and be able to meet you along the way to make the sale. I've done both, and it really helps when you need stock that is not available locally.
 
So you can float those teeth (like you would do with a horse). It would help in the short term. You'd need a file and a way to hold bunnies mouth open enough to float them.

When you bring in a buck...try to bring in a proven one and a youngster from a compatible line. NEVER keep bucks back for breeding from. Only bring in new bucks.

Can you bring in a "larger sized" mini and use him in the short term? If mini satins are anything like holland lops or mini rex... some of them grow much bigger than the standard.
 
So you can float those teeth (like you would do with a horse). It would help in the short term. You'd need a file and a way to hold bunnies mouth open enough to float them.

When you bring in a buck...try to bring in a proven one and a youngster from a compatible line. NEVER keep bucks back for breeding from. Only bring in new bucks.

Can you bring in a "larger sized" mini and use him in the short term? If mini satins are anything like holland lops or mini rex... some of them grow much bigger than the standard.
I will have to see about floating their teeth. Didnt know it was possible with rabbits.
Most of the minis around here are pet quality at best. And the few good ones I've seen were poor tempered.
I've probably made this worse by breeding for some recessive colors. :confused:
 
Current doe with this issues is just going on 2. Started developing multiple abscess in the same location. Cleaned then out and managed to feel the molar. Overgrown and angeled.
What state do you live in?
 
Back molar on their left. In my breeders the tooth had curled around the Outside of the jaw. I had one buck from an oops breed, litter mates, not be able to eat by 6 months his were so bad. It always presents in that spot.
The problem with bringing in a new buck, which I need to do. Is Finding one. Standard satins are not easy to come by here. Plenty of minis, no standards.
Go to the Breeders USA or type in Breeders by State in your browser to see who is active for Satin breeders in your state. Transport is really a thing now enabling the ability to get really nice unrelated stock brought in from major breeders in other states.
 
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