Automatic watering system

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Beekeeper10

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Location
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I am getting ready to set up a automatic watering system and I have a few questions.
I am planning on using a 30 gal plastic barrel with a 250 to 350 gal. a minute pond pump to circulate water.
Does the pump have to placed in the barrel to keep the pump cool? It would be a lot easier to put a drain in the bottom of the barrel and tee it off to the pump and also would be easy to put in a bypass so that it would gravity feed if necessary. My only concern is would the pump over heat?
Also, does the return line need to be below the water level in the barrel? Will aerating the water cause any problems?

Thanks,
Tommy
 
it's best to keep the pump submerged. They say you don't have to on some of them...but I'd be leery. Also, get a magnetic driven pump. No concerns about oil entering the water system.
grumpy.
 
I would be very careful about aerating the water as it can and will cause algae to grow faster rabbits also can and do back wash into the water system at times if the pressure is to low also helping to cause algae problems. You might already have a work around for this that I am not aware of so just thought I would bring it to your attention. BTW why are you going with the tank setup and not the presser reg setup. The setup that my mom and dad had when I was growing up used pvc pipe feed by a pressure regulator and at the very end of each run there was a 90 pointed down with a ball value so the lines could be flushed every so often.
 
I was wondering if aeration could be a problem and if it is I can return water on the bottom of the tank.
As far as the pressure regulator system, I figured if it was a good way to do it, everybody else would be doing it and I have not seen anyone else here recommend it. That doesn't mean it is not a good way of doing it. It just hasn't been talked about here.
I think the tank and pump system gives me more options for flushing the system and the possibility of keeping the water flowing in freezing weather and I don't have to keep pressure on the system all the time. It will work with just gravity pressure.

But the main reason I am considering the tank system first is because it sounds like it is the way grumpy does it and if he does it that way, I am sure there is good reason. :D
The reason I am asking the questions is that I would like everyone's opinion. The pressure regulator system might work better. There is no doubt it would be easier and faster to set up, but what about long term. I don't know why, but it seems to me doing it the hard way is usually better in the long run. :D
Is there anyone else on the forum that uses a pressure regulator automatic water system?

Thanks,
Tommy
 
You are in the south freezing should not be a very big concern to you. Dad use to use the flush valves to keep the pipes from freezing by letting them "drip" if it was going to freeze that night. It does not take much flow at all to keep them from freezing. The only two reasons I can think someone would do it the other way would be to put in additives in the water ( you can use a chemical injection system) or money ie the reg is out of the budget and you have the other stuff around the farm. I also could be way way off base here and I would also like to hear other peoples take on it
 
Beekeeper10":1l01gspu said:
I was wondering if aeration could be a problem and if it is I can return water on the bottom of the tank.
As far as the pressure regulator system, I figured if it was a good way to do it, everybody else would be doing it and I have not seen anyone else here recommend it. That doesn't mean it is not a good way of doing it. It just hasn't been talked about here.
I think the tank and pump system gives me more options for flushing the system and the possibility of keeping the water flowing in freezing weather and I don't have to keep pressure on the system all the time. It will work with just gravity pressure.

But the main reason I am considering the tank system first is because it sounds like it is the way grumpy does it and if he does it that way, I am sure there is good reason. :D
The reason I am asking the questions is that I would like everyone's opinion. The pressure regulator system might work better. There is no doubt it would be easier and faster to set up, but what about long term. I don't know why, but it seems to me doing it the hard way is usually better in the long run. :D
Is there anyone else on the forum that uses a pressure regulator automatic water system?

Thanks,
Tommy

Tommy,

We are putting ours in and for now it will be gravity fed. Once we get the water out to the barn it will be hooked up with a pressure regulator. Almost everyone I know around here that has an auto water system uses either gravity fed or pressure regulator. We don't have the freeze concerns that folks farther north do.
 
Nivyn":2snn12vf said:
You are in the south freezing should not be a very big concern to you. Dad use to use the flush valves to keep the pipes from freezing by letting them "drip" if it was going to freeze that night. It does not take much flow at all to keep them from freezing. The only two reasons I can think someone would do it the other way would be to put in additives in the water ( you can use a chemical injection system) or money ie the reg is out of the budget and you have the other stuff around the farm. I also could be way way off base here and I would also like to hear other peoples take on it
Slow drip wouldn't stop a hard freeze, especially in the nipple T's. I've used submersible pumps for years and have always felt more comfortable using them than having water standing, per se, in the pipes. My biggest concern has always been bacterial build-up. I've never had an issue with algae build up when I've used pumps. The slight aeration would be a plus in my estimation, creating an aerobic environment. Rather than an anaerobic situation.

I do, periodically, flush the system after I've added chlorine bleach to sanitize it. I'll let the solution circulate for three for four minutes, then pump the water barrel empty with an extra pump and hose attachment. It only takes a few moments and has worked well for me. The residual bleach in the lines is quickly diluted to near nothing with 30 gallons of fresh water.

Gravity fed systems work well during the warm months of the year. During the cold weather, one must either use heat-cables (which are nearly useless) in my opinion. Or create a slightly pressurized water system with heated water. i.e. submersible pump. Or, drain the system and use crocks and bottles when it's freezing. Warm water helps the rabbits immensely during the winter.
grumpy
 
grumpy":fyfuasvr said:
I do, periodically, flush the system after I've added chlorine bleach to sanitize it. I'll let the solution circulate for three for four minutes, then pump the water barrel empty with an extra pump and hose attachment. It only takes a few moments and has worked well for me. The residual bleach in the lines is quickly diluted to near nothing with 30 gallons of fresh water.

Gravity fed systems work well during the warm months of the year. During the cold weather, one must either use heat-cables (which are nearly useless) in my opinion. Or create a slightly pressurized water system with heated water. i.e. submersible pump. Or, drain the system and use crocks and bottles when it's freezing. Warm water helps the rabbits immensely during the winter.
grumpy


So, your water circulates through the system and back to the reservoir? or did I misunderstand? :thinking: :thinking:
 
grumpy":y9ft2ake said:
I do, periodically, flush the system after I've added chlorine bleach to sanitize it. I'll let the solution circulate for three for four minutes, then pump the water barrel empty with an extra pump and hose attachment. It only takes a few moments and has worked well for me. The residual bleach in the lines is quickly diluted to near nothing with 30 gallons of fresh water.

grumpy

Chlorine will gassify at 70 degrees F. If there is no added scent to the bleach, the water is actually safe to drink at a working level of 1 tsp per gallon of water(3% bleach -laundry and household type concentrations)
 
OneAcreFarm":57gw1gny said:
grumpy":57gw1gny said:
I do, periodically, flush the system after I've added chlorine bleach to sanitize it. I'll let the solution circulate for three for four minutes, then pump the water barrel empty with an extra pump and hose attachment. It only takes a few moments and has worked well for me. The residual bleach in the lines is quickly diluted to near nothing with 30 gallons of fresh water.

Gravity fed systems work well during the warm months of the year. During the cold weather, one must either use heat-cables (which are nearly useless) in my opinion. Or create a slightly pressurized water system with heated water. i.e. submersible pump. Or, drain the system and use crocks and bottles when it's freezing. Warm water helps the rabbits immensely during the winter.
grumpy


So, your water circulates through the system and back to the reservoir? or did I misunderstand? :thinking: :thinking:

You're correct, One Acre Farm. I've got return lines on both systems. The water moves through the lines 24/7 all year long. If you look close, you can see the return line coming back to the white barrel through the wall on the right-hand side. The yellow hose is my fill hose. It's ran up through the rafters of the barn and down to my freeze-proof water spigot. It drains by gravity so I won't have a frozen fill hose when I need to fill up the barrels.
SANY0052.jpg


Grumpy.
 

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