Appropriate size cage for breeding doe and buck.

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Mosherd1

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I was hoping to find some clarification on a few things. I have read in some books that a cage should provide one square foot of space for each pound that the animal would be at maturity. So for Californians and NZ, being around 10-11 lbs, they would need about 10-11 square feet. I also saw on this forum that 30"X36" cage would be fine for a breeding doe. Am I missing something? Below is the cage I am thinking of getting (maybe 3 cages to start) because I do not think that I need enough cages to build my own and make it worth my while. I would love to hear your thoughts.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/pet-care/s ... n--2179677
 
Mosherd1":1zb4n2j6 said:
I was hoping to find some clarification on a few things. I have read in some books that a cage should provide one square foot of space for each pound that the animal would be at maturity. So for Californians and NZ, being around 10-11 lbs, they would need about 10-11 square feet. I also saw on this forum that 30"X36" cage would be fine for a breeding doe. Am I missing something? Below is the cage I am thinking of getting (maybe 3 cages to start) because I do not think that I need enough cages to build my own and make it worth my while. I would love to hear your thoughts.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/pet-care/s ... n--2179677

The size is fine but don't buy those cages from TSC. They won't hold up well. Check Klubertanz or Bass Equipment. The TSC ones will rust if you put them outside and the wire isn't as sturdy as it needs to be for Cali's.

30 x 36 is good for breeding does, bucks can be smaller if needed.
 
There is a whole range of opinions on how much space is enough... It sounds to me as though the one square foot per pound may be a recommendation for pets. For a standard sized meat rabbit, breeding doe, 30" x 36" or 24" x 48" is usually considered sufficient. If you are going to anything much larger, you might as well opt for a colony pen.
 
Good to know, I appreciate it! I will check into those two websites for the cages, thanks! I would be going with Cali's or NZ so I am glad you told me about the sturdiness of them.
 
One thing to consider, at least for me it was an issue, being short, a 30x36 cage was a major pain in the butt! I couldn't reach the back of the cage, so I had hubby cut the two down that we had. Not sure if that would be an issue for you or not, just thought I'd put it out there.
 
fuzzy9":d6zsh1lu said:
One thing to consider, at least for me it was an issue, being short, a 30x36 cage was a major pain in the butt! I couldn't reach the back of the cage, so I had hubby cut the two down that we had. Not sure if that would be an issue for you or not, just thought I'd put it out there.

Or at least put in a a very large door, and put it right in the middle. I put mine to one side and I *do* have trouble reaching the far corner at times....
 
If you put the cages on the right level with a large door 30" can be reached by just about anyone. I'm 5'2 and the only cage I have trouble with is the one on the top of the stack with a lip I have to lean over. I can't reach the last 4" of that one. Most of mine the entire front is a door to swings up or down. If you want little doors off to the side so you can put water and food on the rest of the front then 30" can become a problem.
 
UPCO has Stackers for about 200 dollars a set of three-- good uqality-- I have 3 sets-- they;ve neen outdoors all sumer, and actually in the snow last spring-- holding up real well. Minimal rust so far-- in the cages I had the bucks in=== in their pee corners...
 
Mosherd1,
I am of the opinion that you should purchase enough wire
[of both Floor and Cage] to be able to build at least
three or four more cages. Trust me, you will need them!
Once you get started it's like eating Potato Chips,
you just want more and more. To improve your herds qualities
you will eventually require a few more and you need holding
cages for those weanlings that hold great promise as future breeders.
Then again, when building your own cages you can build to suit your needs.
Just my 25c on the subject, I hope it helps.
Ottersatin. :eek:ldtimer:
 
I can buy wire mesh from my hardware store for the floor of the cage, is 19 gauge too small or does it not matter? Also, how critical is it for the sides of the cage to be 1 X 2 and not any larger. I cannot find 1 X 2 anywhere. Thanks!
 
14 or 16 gauge wire is usually suggested for building cages.

On adult rabbit cages the spacing on the sides doesn't really matter at all. I use wire panels that have 2x2" squares. In a cage that will have kits it would probably be best to stick with the smaller wire like 1x1" or 1/2x1".
 
Floor wire needs to be very strong... I believe 14-16 gauge, 1"x1/2" is the standard. Don't skimp on the floor wire because your rabbits may end up with sore feet after a while.

The sides and top are a bit less critical, but buy the best you can. I personally prefer 1"x1" since it excludes predators such as rats, weasels and mink. Anything larger is an open invitation to these critters and they can and will carry off and eat kits. You will also need a finer mesh on the lower few inches ("babysaver") to keep newborns kindled on the wire from getting out before you can rescue them.

Better a trio of rabbits in good cages than many cages of rabbits with problems.
 
I've heard that wire mesh of most kinds other then 1X1/2 wire hurts their feet and encourages sore hocks. I've never used it, so I wouldn't know firsthand.
 
I appreciate all of your advice, and I am learning quite a bit. I need your opinions on one more thing...I plan on purchasing a 20 foot long cage, 2 feet wide. It has 8 holes, each being 24 X 30. This guy has used them for New Zealands. I need to cut it in half to get it home because it is so large. My question is if I should redesign the cage when I get it home to make each hole larger for NZ or Cali's or is it not important enough to be worth the effort? It does not have wire on the top, but does have plywood and shingles since he kept his rabbits outside. The roof will be coming off and replaced with wire as I will have the cages hanging indoors. I wanted to paint you a picture of where I stand and what you think I should do. The craigslist ad is below. Thanks!
http://newhaven.craigslist.org/grd/2690810505.html
 
I would imagine so, would the extra space for the rabbits be worth the effort to redesign it in your opinion? I have never made rabbit cages but am pretty good with my hands so I cannot imagine it bwould be that hard to do.
 
Definitely worth the effort if you can do it. The buns will be happier, healthier and a lot less stressed when there are ten fryers in there with mama... bouncing off everything in sight. The cages will stay cleaner too.
 
Good to know, that is what I will do then. Always good to hear from someone with experience. I appreciate the heads up on this. Thanks again
 
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