All theory and no practise...yet. Any (and all) advice?

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loopylander

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Okay, here's the situation. I'm cringing already at what I'm about to say knowing full well that all of you will just shake your head, but here goes: I will be moving in a year or less to a mobile park and would love to try a single pair of meat rabbits. I was thinking of a mini rex buck (for meat to bone ratio) and a standard rex doe (for size). Rex breeders are common where I am so getting stock will be easy BUT, I've never had rabbits before. They will probably have to be clandestine, and its too hot for them to be outside anyway... Which means inside rabbits. I've read all the yes's and no's about indoor intact bucks but hey, I'm still considering it. I was hoping with waterproof hutch-type cages open only on the front will keep the spraying off the walls at least. Maybe four litters a year max? Sell/butcher the male kits at 10 weeks and the females at 12? What do you think? Go ahead, let me have it.
 
Why a mini Rex buck? Rex have good meat to bone ratio.

I would just get two Rex. They grow slower than other meat breeds in any case, so mixing a mini in would just put you even further behind.

Mine get butchered closer to 16 weeks as it is.

They are wonderful rabbits, though. I adore mine. :)
 
I thought that standard was dominant to mini, or is that just the dwarfing gene? Are minis dwarves or just bred for size? I was considering butchering males at 10 weeks in case they could breed/fight at 3 months. That way they could all stay with Mom until its time for freezer camp. My hutches will be (I hope) 6 ft long, 2 1/2 ft deep and 2 ft high so I can stand them on end and still get them through a door.
 
I thought that standard was dominant to mini, or is that just the dwarfing gene? Are minis dwarves or just bred for size?

Even non-dwarf Mini Rex are very, very small rabbits...just a tick bigger than the dwarf ones. :) I had a non-dwarf Mini Rex doe...she was just shy of four pounds. :D

I was considering butchering males at 10 weeks in case they could breed/fight at 3 months. That way they could all stay with Mom until its time for freezer camp.

They won't breed until their testicles descend...so as long as you keep an eye out for that, they should be pretty harmless. :)
 
loopylander":3o9urhmz said:
My hutches will be (I hope) 6 ft long, 2 1/2 ft deep and 2 ft high

18" tall is standard for the commercial breeds. Personally, I would go no more than 3' by 30" deep. That will also afford you the option of separating the kits by sex if necessary, providing you are planning on two 6' long cage banks. Make sure the door is large enough that it is easy to reach all corners of the cage.

Bucks don't need nearly as much room as does, either, so you might make that one growout pen larger. But remember; BIG doors!
 
Sounds very reasonable to me... I had a clandestine rabbitry (outside) until last year. Several others on here have clandestine rabbitries.

Kyle used to have an indoor meat rabbitry, so I know he could give you some tips. :)<br /><br />__________ Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:12 pm __________<br /><br />And about not having rabbits before... use the time ahead of getting them to read a lot of the back threads on RabbitTalk. There is a wealth of information here. :) We have a search function, and you can always post questions, too.
 
Get your rabbits from someone who has the same goals as you, you don't need rabbits from lines that take forever to make weight.
It's taken me a little while but I'm getting better growth rates than I used to because I cull for it.
 
ah... i've seen 6 lb mini rex, and 3 lb mini rex. if looking for one for breeding...I'd be looking at the pet breeders, not the show breeders....
 
I would just get two standard rex. All my rabbits are indoors. I like it because my rabbits breed all year round without problems, my rabbits are not stressed by the environment and I believe my rabbits stay healthy as a result. The downsides are if I miss a cleaning date, I will start to smell the rabbits, second is the cages would be easier to clean outdoors. I have 6 bucks and only 1 (youngest) is a real problem with spraying. You can eliminate much of the problem of spraying by putting up some sort of shield around the cage.

As for having 1 doe and 1 buck the biggest downside would be if you lost one or the other. However since your are going to house them indoors I think the odds of death or health issues goes down substantially. Just my opinion though based on my experience.

Good luck and keep us updated. Great choice with the Standard Rex, what a beautiful rabbit.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I was going to make my cages solid on all sides but for the front, no mating between the bars or spraying each other and walls beyond. The front, including doors would be 24" x 36" dog exercise pen panels so I could reach half the cage without the bun(s) bailing out the other side. The solid tops & bottoms should also let me stack them. A single pair for now 'cause this is a total experiment. I'm sure they will be more than a handful until I figure this out, plus I'll be in a mobile home...not much space and I'll have to hide a bale of hay too. The weather here gets down to -40 celcius in the winter and above +30 celcius for weeks in the summer. Inside would solve that plus predation by ants, dogs, rats, weasels, cats, bears, wasps, bobcats, small boys and other voracious animals... Oops, boss alert, better get to work now.
 
I wouldn't do a solid bottom hutch ( you had posted only the front will be open). The wire floors can have resting mats added to them if your worried about feet issues, but wire floors let the poo to thorough so the rabbits stay cleaner. Just a thought, hope your rabbits work out for you. Sounds like you've got a plan.
 
Kyle used to have an indoor meat rabbitry, so I know he could give you some tips.

It did have a lot of advantages and disadvantages!!! :)

Solid bottoms are a bad idea especially if they are indoors...there's just less air movement, so pee will stay wet longer, and the filth is bad for them. ESPECIALLY if you make the floor of wood...wood is porous and will hold bacteria and nastiness.

I would not do solid three-sides. Two sides solid might be okay, to prevent spraying, but honestly not all bucks spray so it's not that much of an issue. With the cages you described, air quality will be a problem. Indoors, there's no air circulation without fans, and unless windows or doors are open to the outside, it circulates the same darn air. :x Wire, wire and MORE wire will help keep them from breathing nasty fumes!

The best part though is that they are RIGHT THERE. No slogging through mud and rain to go feed on a stormy day, the basement rabbitry I had stayed nice and cool all summer so heat wasn't an issue. No rabbit ever got a sun-kissed pelt, LOL. It was nice. But the air thing was a constant, CONSTANT struggle. Wire floors, drop trays about five inches or more below the cages, and trays emptied every other day. Apple cider vinegar seemed to help the urine be less reeking and cut the ammonia in the air. A fan on a low setting to circulate air 24/7 was also a must.

If you are worried about their feet, as someone else suggested, get resting mats. But better yet, check over any potential breeding stock for the right feet...wide feet with good fur are not likely to get sore hocks on wire. Skinny or long/narrow feet without a good fur base will be a problem. If you have a line that has genetically appropriate feet, go for it! SOLID floors are more likely to cause sore hocks...the feet get wet from pee, and it irritates and damages the foot, and since they stand on that the damaged area ulcerates and bam, sore hocks. Almost all sore hocks I've seen? Rabbits on solid floors. You can't clean the floor often enough to protect them. :(

Did I mention air, and more air? :) An air purifier was being planned for before my life kinda fell apart, that would help as well.

And wire. WIRE AND AIR, I can't say it enough. :lol: Wire allows air to move through. Solid walls/top/bottom will get a lot of respiratory problems.

Scattering some carefresh or pine shavings in drop trays helps to absorb pee so the air is cleaner, too. Indoors it's a huge help. I don't bother now that my rabbits are outside. :)

ON WIRE, all on wire. :)

Wire floors. SRSLY. I had a solid-bottomed floor for a while, it was a NIGHTMARE. Horrible, horrible!!!
 
You can have wire floors and either chutes and gutters, or trays, either method would allow you to have two levels, without solid floors.

Solid floors can be done, it's just a bit more labor-intensive. If you litter-train, it would be easier.

Check out the Gallery for setups, and maybe Ckcs and Kyle and Bad Habit can post some indoor rabbitry pix for you.

Bad Habit has her rabbits inside, too. She uses the pet cages with the plastic floor, I believe.
 
I was wondering about the floors myself. I was going to go solid to protect baby feet from wire and find something washable/disposable for the kits and hopefully litter train the adults. I also realize that plain wood is a baaaad idea. What do you think of lining solid areas with either vinyl flooring (traction issues?) or roll on truck bed liner? Maybe that waterproof membrane stuff for shower stalls? And I agree that air circulation is a must. Like a constant fan or window mounted exhaust fan...bathroom fan perhaps?...Hmmmmm.
 
There are plenty of rabbit raisers who keep rabbits on solid floors. Zab, a member in Sweden, keeps them on solid floors because it's actually the law there. They tend to have a solid floor with a deep bed of shavings, paper, peat, whatever... so the rabbit isn't actually on the floor. Bramble Hedge, in Australia (I think), keeps them on a solid floor with a deep bed of sand that she washes daily.

Zab and Bramble Hedge both keep rabbits outside, though.
 
I have brain tanned one rex fur and four normal furs and the rex is the family favorite!

Any buck of mine that sprays gets a one way trip to the crock pot. :evil: My only richly colored broken red NZ buck gets a slight pass because he only sprays when I give him a doe. He is pee propelled then, jumping and squirting and flinging it round in joyful abandon till he gets the job done.
 
My experience with wire vs solid is wire trumps solid. I have never had sore hocks but the rabbits that I have on wire are all small breeds (3-5 lbs). I have 2 larger (8lbs) pet rabbits on solid bottom. 1 is a wonderful, they have a litter box and use it. The cage stays dry, smell is not noticeable and clean up is a breeze. The second does not use a litter box. The doe uses one part of the cage which I place newspaper. The cage also has a lot of hay in it for bedding. Odor can be more of an issue is that cage and cleaning it sucks.
 
I currently have more bucks than does and I have never had a buck that sprays. That's another question to ask breeders.
 
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