18" or 24"??

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trinityoaks

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All but one of my cages is 24" high (30"W x 30"L). I really like that height for does with kits, although I guess 18" is fine for bucks and growouts. I'm thinking of buying my replacement cages instead of making them, but it seems that they come in mostly 18" height. (Although the ones I plan to get are custom-made, the pricing I have is for 18" high cages.)

Would I be sorry if I got the 18" cages? My rabbits are Cals, Rexes, and Brazilians (which are between Rexes and Cals in size).
 
According to recommendations found in the Animal Welfare Act, the minimum floor space is calculated by the weight of the mature animal:

Breeds weighing less than 4.5 lbs
1.5 sq ft

Breeds weighing 4.5 to 9 lbs
3 sq ft

Breeds weighing 9 to 12 lbs
4 sq ft

Breeds weighing over 12 lbs
5 sq ft

Doe with litter (under 4.5 lbs)
4 sq ft

Doe with litter (4.5 to 9 lbs)
5 sq ft

Doe with litter (9 to 12 lbs)
6 sq ft

Doe with litter (over 12 lbs)
7.5 sq ft


Recommended minimum height for all breeds is 14 inches. When calculating square feet, it is important to subtract feed and water dishes that occupy floor space. For this reason, feeders and water bottles (or water nipples attached to an automatic or semi-automatic water delivery system), that attach to the wire of the cage front are recommended for their efficiency and the fact that they free up valuable floor space. Naturally, a larger pen is not harmful. How much larger is at your discretion. Building materials can vary from wood, to PVC plastic, to wire. The design of your pen is up to you, and how elaborate you wish to get. The the most common pen is made of all wire, which is the most sanitary, as the waste from the rabbit will fall through the wire floor onto the ground or into a pan which can slide out from under the pen for cleaning. This latter method is a great space saver, as pens can be stacked on top of each other.<br /><br />__________ Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:24 pm __________<br /><br />That comes off the american rabbit breeders association web site.
 
The ones I built are 24, but that is mostly wasted space, I see that now. If I made 18, I could have more cages. The stackers are only 16 high, but they are not for full time use.
 
24" is wonderful, but 18" is still nice. It allows your typical rabbit to stand up, and to hop a bit. I've got a 6lb rabbit that still does binkies in hers.
 
My one 18" cage isn't bad (I have my Cal buck in it now), but I do notice the difference. I have larger doors in my 24" cages, which are really nice for getting nest boxes in and out, as well as reaching the back of the cage to grab a reluctant bunny. I"m trying to standardize on one cage size so that they're all interchangeable.

My cages are stacked two high now. I don't think I could comfortably stack them three high, even if I had 18" high cages. As it is, I'm going to have to lower the top row of cages so I can reach them more easily.
 
I don't see mine using 16in or any vertical space unless they smell the pellets or grass I am bringing them. Otherwise they are always on all 4s, sitting or stretched and laying. I don't see how vertical space is that much important. Most don't give a box for jumping on, so why waste wire..
Even if I'm out there working on something where I'm constantly looking past the rabbits, they just sit or lay, in 16in space or 20in space.
 
trinityoaks":2excsmz2 said:
My one 18" cage isn't bad (I have my Cal buck in it now), but I do notice the difference. I have larger doors in my 24" cages, which are really nice for getting nest boxes in and out, as well as reaching the back of the cage to grab a reluctant bunny. I"m trying to standardize on one cage size so that they're all interchangeable.

My cages are stacked two high now. I don't think I could comfortably stack them three high, even if I had 18" high cages. As it is, I'm going to have to lower the top row of cages so I can reach them more easily.


Right now I have to stand on a milk crate to reach the top of my stackers.

SS850164.jpg


stackers courtesy of FrostedRabbits.

by the by--chickiesnbunnies--white washing thigs does keep the flies from landing on them, I'm in the process of white washing everything that can be whitewashed.
 
Trinity, all of mine are 18" and I think they are plenty high...The only reason to go 24" would be to have some extra wire so that you can clip the floor off and put a new one...instead of trying to remove each Jclip, you just cut the bottom row of wire off, making the cage 22" then...I cannot see really needing to do this, if you start with really good floor wire....
 
ChickiesnBunnies":3vnvqdrv said:
I don't see mine using 16in or any vertical space unless they smell the pellets or grass I am bringing them. Otherwise they are always on all 4s, sitting or stretched and laying.
Several of mine DO like to stand up on their hind legs and look around. I haven't watched closely enough, though, to determine whether they could still do that in an 18" cage.

Most don't give a box for jumping on, so why waste wire.
I've periodically kicked around the idea of making a shelf for nursing does to get a break from their kits, or for older kits to play on and get some space from their littermates. But that brings me back to having two different cage styles/sizes.

Maybe I'm over-thinking this issue of two sizes of cages.

__________ Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:33 am __________

OneAcreFarm":3vnvqdrv said:
Trinity, all of mine are 18" and I think they are plenty high.
Thanks! I was trying to remember whether you have 18" or 24". What are the horizontal dimensions on yours, especially the ones for your Cals and NZs with litters?
 
trinityoaks":2y6no7sj said:
ChickiesnBunnies":2y6no7sj said:
I don't see mine using 16in or any vertical space unless they smell the pellets or grass I am bringing them. Otherwise they are always on all 4s, sitting or stretched and laying.
Several of mine DO like to stand up on their hind legs and look around. I haven't watched closely enough, though, to determine whether they could still do that in an 18" cage.

Most don't give a box for jumping on, so why waste wire.
I've periodically kicked around the idea of making a shelf for nursing does to get a break from their kits, or for older kits to play on and get some space from their littermates. But that brings me back to having two different cage styles/sizes.

Maybe I'm over-thinking this issue of two sizes of cages.

__________ Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:33 am __________

OneAcreFarm":2y6no7sj said:
Trinity, all of mine are 18" and I think they are plenty high.
Thanks! I was trying to remember whether you have 18" or 24". What are the horizontal dimensions on yours, especially the ones for your Cals and NZs with litters?

36" x 30" x 18" and I flip my nest boxes and my biggest does will climb on top to get away from the kits....
 
trinityoaks":blkv4fbe said:
I've periodically kicked around the idea of making a shelf for nursing does to get a break from their kits, or for older kits to play on and get some space from their littermates. But that brings me back to having two different cage styles/sizes.

Maybe I'm over-thinking this issue of two sizes of cages.

__________ Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:33 am __________

OneAcreFarm":blkv4fbe said:
Trinity, all of mine are 18" and I think they are plenty high.
Thanks! I was trying to remember whether you have 18" or 24". What are the horizontal dimensions on yours, especially the ones for your Cals and NZs with litters?


Even with a box or a shelf, the Rexes dont touch the top of a 16" stacker cage.
 
Mine are 18" also. My Rex stand upright in them, usually when I am handing out yummy treats like horse cookies. I would put shelves in the 24" high ones- they get more exercise jumping up onto/into things, and it creates more usable space. They will still be able to stand and stretch where there is no "loft".

When I need to replace my floor wire I am going to use the old as babysaver wire, so my doe cages will have added height. The wire from the buck cages will likely be made into shelves or nests.
 
I have a 16" pair of cages and a 18" pair and one 24" cage. In the 16" the rabbits don't really do much stretching up, generally laying or sitting. In the 18" pair are the does with kits and they have wooden nest boxes with tops and those does really make use of the top of the nest box. In the 24" cage is my buck and he has a 12" tall resting shelf and he makes us of that, and he will stand on his back legs to sniff over the does on either side.

I also have the runout pens with hollow logs in each one and all the rabbits will jump on top of the logs during play.

IMHO if they are raised with access to "up" space, they will make use of it. If not, then they aren't missing anything :D
 
The first few cages I built were 24"x24"x24". I Then built some 24"x24"x18" cages as well as some 36"x30"x18" cages. I have since converted all of the 24" high cages to 18" high.

I am adding a bottom tier to one of my cage banks and the 24" height would have required that the top tier be raised too high for comfort. If not for the vertical space issues in my multi-tier setup I would probably have stuck with the 24" height.
 
MamaSheepdog":3vwhzxge said:
Mine are 18" also. My Rex stand upright in them, usually when I am handing out yummy treats like horse cookies.
So, even when they're upright, 18" is enough?

I'm still trying to determine whether 30"x30"x18" would be big enough for a Cal doe with a dozen kits.
 
tnelsonfla":zfrct4e5 said:
I have Havana's and I use 18" on all cages. Bucks and Jr does get 24X24 and Sr does get 30X30.
I'm not familiar with Havanas. How big do they get?
 
Havanas are 4.5-6.5 lbs so smaller than your breeds.

My dd had Angoras (2) and they were in 18 high, purchased cages. I don't recall them standing up really in their cages. When loose in the house, they stretched and stood but not in their cages. We had them until they died of old age at around 9 yrs old or so. Great rabbits.

We currently have Beverens and a mixed bunny (how it started- neighbors son gave it to my son as a quasi- happy mothers day). We built hutches, they were supposed to be 24 high but ended up being more like 36 high in the front and 30 in the back (hutch roof slants towards back). That was due to my misdesign plans. I was a little irritated at first but the rabbits love the space. They actually hop and stand- quite often actually.

I wonder if rabbits won't stand if they know their ears will be hitting the top and that is why I don't remember the Angoras standing in their cages?

18 is probably suffient but if you could do 24, the bunnies would probably like it. The Beverens are 9-12 lbs. their actual cages are 36 x 36 and 36 x 48 but the next ones I may do 30 x 36 for the bucks.
 
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