Stubborn Doe-tried everything, any advice?

So I am not new to breeding issues, but I have a new doe who just won't lift. I have tried everything, including ACV and keeping her in good health, as well as watching for her rediness. It just never seems to come. Any advice is appreciated. I follow these types of threads all the time but maybe I have missed something.....

macksmom98":3ctj2o44 said:

So I am not new to breeding issues, but I have a new doe who just won't lift. I have tried everything, including ACV and keeping her in good health, as well as watching for her rediness. It just never seems to come. Any advice is appreciated. I follow these types of threads all the time but maybe I have missed something.....

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When I have one like that I use a neutral spot to give it a try. If she doesn't lift I apply the "rabbit Jack" maneuver. Get her sideways in front of you with her head to the left. Hold her head/shoulders down and slide your right arm under her right in front of her hind legs. Now with your left forearm still over her head and shoulders grab a hand full of hide on her back and pull forward towards her head. *Boing* the tail pops up and it's over in a flash. :mrgreen: Of course you're going to have a buck helping you the entire time so you might want a helper to hold him back while you get set. :lol:

Sometimes reluctance to breed is a nutritional issue. Vitamin A and Vitamin E are essential for willingness and success. These vitamins are in all pelleted feed at the time of manufacture, but they may break down during storage, especially in the heat.

Dandelion greens, parsley etc. are all good sources of Vitamin A and whole grains, sunflower seeds and wheat germ/wheat germ oil are good sources of Vitamin E. If your rabbits are accustomed only to pellets, phase them in slowly. If the issue is nutritional, this should help within a few weeks.

We do BOSS twice a week and pellets, oats, and hay. I would guess they would be getting all their vitamins, but I'll add some parsley just to be try it. And I may try the table breeding method, but I think I'll give her a few more days. She just went thru a false pregnant, as did my other doe. The other was ready to rebreed right away. But her body might just be taking longer to recover. She has never lifted well, so it's no surprise that she's not pregnant.

It is quite possible that it is not a nutritional issue, but it is something that is sometimes overlooked. People tend to look at pellets as a "complete" diet but sometimes nutrients are lost. It certainly won't hurt to try the parsley. :good-luck:

Give her some fresh ginger for a few days. Just a small piece each time ....

my approach to difficult does.... NOTE.. I used to do a whole variety of things, now I just don't bother. I simply run them with a buck in a large cage for 3-7 days. They are usually bred day 2.

Sometimes with does it's a mental issue for them. Running them with the buck gets that mental issue out of their heads. If they don't breed after running with the buck and EVERYONE else is breeding, I simply remove that rabbit from my breeding program. I don't have time to mess around with rabbits that don't want to breed when EVERYONE else is breeding.

It would be different if the whole herd was having issues, but one doe? It's more than likely the doe rather than anything else. False pregnancies can mess with a doe mentally... and seriously.. the ONLY solution I have had to that problem is to run a buck with the doe for an extended period of time.. no less than two weeks.

Other things that I have done in the past with success

1. put doe in the bucks cage and vice versa. Leave her there a couple days then switch them back.. next day breed the doe.
2. ACV in the water.
3. limiting feed for 1-2 weeks prior to breeding then feeding a bit more than a normal portion for a couple days.
4. feeding ONLY hay for a week then giving grains/pellets
5. feeding more greens
6. car ride for an entire day
7. extra light shining INTO the cage (just not as an ambient light for the shelter but actual light ON the rabbit)..needed for at least two days.
8. persistence.. putting doe into the cage EVERY SINGLE day .. morning and night.
9. Putting the buck into the does cage.. had one doe who simply wouldn't breed with a buck UNLESS I brought HIM to her.


One thing I will add.. when you find out what works with a peculiar doe.. document it so you know what to be mindful of if you happen to hold back a kit from her. Save yourself some grief.

Thanks everyone! It feels good to hear (even tho I know) that I am not the only one that has these kinds of issues! And there are some things I have yet to try. I'll be honest. I am really worried about leaving them together for an extended period of time. I have heard stories of the males being injured (especially their testicles) and I only have 1 Buck, so that's why I am saving that as a last resort. But I think I will do that soon, once I am sure she is done with her false pregnancy. She has already calmed down for us. She doesn't lunge anymore and lets us pet her again. And she may be one to get rid of. But we have her and I would love to get some kits out of her if we can get her going

ladysown":qjtennk5 said:

2. ACV in the water.

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The first time I read about this, I assumed it was an old wives' tale (no offense to old wives). But this is real? How much do you use?

It's real. And usually works! I put a capfull in a standard size hanging bottle. If you google or look up old threads on here you can get measurements for part to gallon.

i actually used to help help with entropathic issues (on advice of an old timer) --- works well by the by from helping them stablize their gut if you start before weaning and continue through to 12-14 weeks --- and noticed as an aside that a couple of difficult to breed does bred more easily. Did some research and learned it was a valid observation.

as to how much to use... I used about a tsp per 16 oz bottle... or about 1/2 cup per gallon water I think.. Enough so you can smell it but it doesn't make the water taste odd. It's more important that you use real stuff as opposed to simulated. In canada I've never seen the simulated...but I've seen it stateside.

I'd put them both in the bucks cage then feed my buck. He would ignore the doe and then she'd get upset. Stumping her foot grunting. Then when he would turn to check her out she was super friendly to him.

I would not suggest this unless you know how your rabbits behave around food. For instance I would not do this with my doe Tartar, she loves her food and might take my poor boys head off. :x :lol: :lol:

Just a thought,
Cathy

I have had first timers refuse to lift and have table bred them using a method similar to that which Homer describes above. Never had issues after the first kindling.

Good luck!

I use and x-pen. Get a seat, because it does take a while. I have does, usuually my Holland Lops, that refuse to lift. When I use an x-pen, it works. I put ACV in everyone's water, every day. I use Braggs organic.

Now my problems seem to be shifting. For a while I thought the heat waS playing a factor. Now my Buck needs lots of practice
(He's very easily stimulated, has a super dramatic fall off, and usually give my girls a sticky back within 30 second of me putting them with him). I have tried some assisted breeding that has kind of worked, but no kits yet and still just really frustrated. The girls will only allow 2 or 3 fall off then they reject him, and have been having false pregnancies. Still hoping for some changes soon!

macksmom98":3kpw5lv4 said:

Now my problems seem to be shifting. For a while I thought the heat waS playing a factor. Now my Buck needs lots of practice
(He's very easily stimulated, has a super dramatic fall off, and usually give my girls a sticky back within 30 second of me putting them with him). I have tried some assisted breeding that has kind of worked, but no kits yet and still just really frustrated. The girls will only allow 2 or 3 fall off then they reject him, and have been having false pregnancies. Still hoping for some changes soon!

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Is he actually penetrating? 2 or 3 fall offs is plenty, it shouldn't take more than that. If they have sticky backs, he may not be making actual penetration. Check him for a split penis. One of the most important things with rabbits this time of year (short days) is supplemental lighting. Rabbits need 14-16 hrs of light to stimulate the pineal gland to secrete, that in turn stimulates the gonads. Lights on a timer that come on before dawn and go off after dark work well.

They are lifting and he's trying. I THINK he penetrated today, although it's hard to tell for sure. But I checked everyone over and didn't find any stick spots and my Does vent had a clear glossy substance. Now if it worked that's great. If it didn't, they probably won't accept him again for another 18 days or so when their false pregnancies are over (as usual).....I put a pic on here of his penis and everyone thought it looked normal. I don't see anything strange, although it does have pretty bid curve to it. He's just really easily stimulated. And the girls are only receptive a very short window. They will both get another try in the morning. But my guess is they won't be happy about it. <br /><br /> -- Thu Dec 03, 2015 7:28 am -- <br /><br /> Tried table breeding and he STILL didn't penetrate and my doe threw a fit (probably partly because she thinks she's already prego-hope she really is!). Soooooo back to waiting.......