When to look at litter for "keepers"?

[OneAcreFarm]

At what age should we begin evaluating for keepers? What age to tattoo or somehow mark to differentiate the kits from each other?

Thanks!

 

[MaggieJ]

I start eyeing them from Day One. :roll: A kit that starts off with a wide meaty butt will usually end up that way too. But I don't make a final selection until close to butchering day. I don't tattoo or mark them in any way. A keeper should be so obviously a keeper, superior to the others, that marking it is not necessary.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

I start eyeing them from Day One. :roll: A kit that starts off with a wide meaty butt will usually end up that way too. But I don't make a final selection until close to butchering day. I don't tattoo or mark them in any way. A keeper should be so obviously a keeper, superior to the others, that marking it is not necessary.

Ok, I guess I was thinking of how the breeder I got mine from does his. But then, he shows his and breeds for meat pens and such. So I don't really need to be able to rank them 1 - whatever...just keep an eye on the "meaty" ones and watch how they grow?

 

[fuzzy9]

What a great question One Acre! I've wondered the same thing. There's one from a recent caly litter in mid march that I'm keeping a close eye on, it's ginormous compared to the others in the litter. :lol:

 

[Frosted Rabbits]

yeah-- and don't just look at hindquarters-- the shoulder area can pack some meat, as well. Shoulders should be proportional to the hindquarters--If your 4 week old kits can pull themselves straight up a 3 foot tall cage wall, you have some good shoulder structure going for you.

 

[MaggieJ]

If you are showing, I would imagine you are watching everything about the rabbit: toenail colour, stray white hairs, ear length... all that kind of stuff. For meat, you want a vigorous rabbit with bouncing good health and a great meat rabbit shape. Good disposition is also a must for me, but then I have never had a really nasty rabbit so I have not had to rule any out on that basis.

In a small herd, sometimes you will have a very good animal but just do not need another breeder. In those cases, I might sell one or two if someone is looking for breeding stock or just send the fryer to freezer camp anyway. You don't have to save every promising rabbit.

 

[RunninMI]

if your raising a meat breed which i assume you are from your pic i would look up the standard of the breed. Even though your just breeding for meat a "Commercial Breed" will havfe a standard that is designed just for meat production and you should go on the type and body structure of that. and I agree with maggie around butchering day would be a good to make final decisions.

 

[Bumper]

Are you looking for show rabbits or strictly meat ones?

By 8-10 weeks, when you usually would butcher fryers, you can tell which ones are turning out the best. Many breeders weigh their litters every week from 3 weeks and up, so they can keep track of weight gain. Faster gain means faster grow out, meaning you don't have to keep juniors as long before you butcher them.

You should also consider weight vs. size. Obviously, you want as much of the weight to be meat as possible, so a bigger bonier rabbit is not better than a smaller more solid one.

 

[cereshill]

I look at growth in the kits and their frame---after I judge the doe.

Doe criteria: litter sizes, milking ability, nesting/general care of litter, disposition. These matter prior to me selecting any of her litter.