Solid partitions between cages??

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Fire Ant Farm

Fire Ant Farm

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South Central Texas
Quick question: As I look into planning my rabbity and getting my cages, I note that some setups for sale have the option of solid metal partitions between cages (or you can add them yourself later). I have seen a number of posts here about bad things happening due to rabbit-on-rabbit mischief through the wire of adjacent cages, and I know that a rabbit could pee on kits in an adjacent cage (ewwww). I could also see that a solid partition could maybe assist in infection control in the case of a sick bunny. (I guess I could see having a few on hand to put in in the case of any of the issues I listed above...)

I haven't actually ever seen solid partitions in the pictures I've seen of folks' set ups here so far (I don't think - did I miss them?). Is there any reason to consider getting solid partitions standard/up front on all of the cages? These partitions would essentially isolate the rabbits from each other. Is this an issue? (Depressed bunnies? :( )

Thanks!

- Ant Farm
 
Air flow is an issue when you have solid partitions. This is not a problem in cool climates and is helpful in limiting the spread of disease, but I wouldn't recommend it in hot or humid areas.

A workable alternative to prevent biting or fur chewing is to use floor wire run horizontally (1" wide by 1/2" tall) as cage dividers.
 
I added solid dividers to my buck pens. I've got several that are located next to each other and they had this constant p-ing contest going. Once we put in the partitions, almost all of that stopped. (Still have one or two young ones that pee all over everything anyway.)

I agree with MSD - cuts down on air flow. Don't like it for that reason. Our pens are 24" high and the partitions are 12" high.

Since our bucks are in a different part of the barn than the does, we don't have any solid dividers in the doe pens.

My suggestion - if you get dividers, make sure they are something you can take in or out depending on need. And then only use them if you need them.
 
We have a buck who likes to pray his next door neighbor on occasion, but is very social and friendly to him at other times. We added a piece o plexiglass that goes up the dividing side of his cage about a third of the way. No big problems with air flow, he can still see his neighbor, and no more yellow buns.
 
If nothing else, to have the best of both worlds, run a solid divider up about 6 inches or so from the bottom, and 1/2 by 1 wire from there on to the top.
 
You guys are SUPER awesome! :clap2: All these responses have been very helpful. MSD, I was indeed also wondering about air flow. I guess Babysaver wire around the lower part is enough for the biting prevention in doe cages (though I guess they can always spray through that...)

Where did you obtain (or what materials did you use to make) the partial/half-high partitions? Marina, I liked that plexiglass idea. Where did you get it (type/thickness)? Any cleaning issues?

- Ant Farm
 
SuburbanHomesteader":3fwhdioq said:
My suggestion - if you get dividers, make sure they are something you can take in or out depending on need. And then only use them if you need them.
Click to expand...

An easy way to do this is to just slip something between the cages- coroplast, plastic wallboard, plexiglass, even cardboard for a temporary solution.
 
Go to Lowes and buy a roll of valley flashing. A roll of galvanized, 24 inch by 50 foot will run about $60-$70.
You can cut it with tin snips or heavy scissors.
If you have access to a sheet metal brake or a siding brake, lock the metal in at the desired width, score it twice with a utility knife, then bend and it will break apart perfectly on your mark.
 
I have several hutches with wooden dividers. This all came about during my experimental hutch building phase. I found that I don't really like those hutches much because they are heavy and awkward to move. When I take them out for thorough cleaning it's a real pain. I've since just been slipping plastic storage bin lids in between regular size hutches. They are shorter so don't restrict air flow as much, take care of any buck who wants to spray his neighbor, and the hutches are easily movable.
 
Fire Ant Farm":11ib8qj4 said:
Where did you obtain (or what materials did you use to make) the partial/half-high partitions? Marina, I liked that plexiglass idea. Where did you get it (type/thickness)? Any cleaning issues?

- Ant Farm
Click to expand...

We go to our local building supply place for the plexi. We can usually get by with scrap pieces they have there for cheap. We cut a piece to length (only takes an xacto knife) and drill holes in each end and then they can be zip tied to the cage. As far as cleaning, I rinse them down, and if they get icky, take them out, scrub them off, and zip tie them back in.
 
I have a freezer camp buck next to my Big Daddy, and I slipped cardboard in between them. Another option "on the cheap" can be coroplast signs. (The stuff political campaign signs are made of.). They are often left behind after events s you can have them for free, they can be cut to size, and in city areas they can be plentiful. I'm able to use them as a resting "board" on my wire cages because these buns don't chew them. A lot of summer camps had posted them by the school that is near me, so when their sign-up deadline passes I've been a helpful citizen & cleaned them up. that can be a free solution until you decide what would work best in the long term.
 

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