wild1slilfarm
Well-known member
Just wandering what size cages every one uses for thier meat rabbits, and how do you have them set up?
pics would be great
pics would be great
Meat Rabbit cages size and set up
- Thread starter wild1slilfarm
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3mina
Well-known member
My newest cage bank is 10- 30 x30 holes. Previous owner raised Flemish Giants, for me they'll be holding my Cals and Harlies. The 24 x 30 will be for the Florida Whites and my bucks except for the FW bucks, they'll have 18 x 24
Mine are set up outside, in blocks of ten. Side by side and back to back with a solid overhang to keep everything dry. Everything is at a comfortable height for me to reach in
Mine are set up outside, in blocks of ten. Side by side and back to back with a solid overhang to keep everything dry. Everything is at a comfortable height for me to reach in
6riversfarms
Well-known member
I have three different size cages in operation. I have 36"X30, 36"X 24", and 24"x 24". I use the bigger cages for does with litters and for growout pens, I use the medium cages for open does and bucks and will use them for smaller does with litters when some of my Florida Whites finally kindle. I plan on using the smaller cages for young breeding stock and show stock as well as some of the smaller bucks if necessary.
I have a two tier set up with corrugated PVC roofing between the two tiers to serve as a dropping board. I don't think the rabbits on the bottom tier would appreciate the ones on the top going potty on them. :evil:
I have an automatic watering system installed that is run straight off of the main water supply with a pressure regulator installed. I still have to make some modifications to the watering system to get it operating well enough to suit me. I was naive in putting the pressure regulator at the bottom of the system. It should go at the top to help equalize the pressure between the upper and lower tiers.
I have a two tier set up with corrugated PVC roofing between the two tiers to serve as a dropping board. I don't think the rabbits on the bottom tier would appreciate the ones on the top going potty on them. :evil:
I have an automatic watering system installed that is run straight off of the main water supply with a pressure regulator installed. I still have to make some modifications to the watering system to get it operating well enough to suit me. I was naive in putting the pressure regulator at the bottom of the system. It should go at the top to help equalize the pressure between the upper and lower tiers.
bigbrologan
Well-known member
The ARBA recommends:
For nursing does 4.4 lbs-8.8 lbs 24x30
For nursing does 8.8 lbs-11.9 lbs 24x36
For all other rabbits 4.4 lbs-8.8 lbs 18x24
For all other rabbits 8.8 lbs-11.9 lbs 24x24
Hanging cages are usually best if you have the space.
For nursing does 4.4 lbs-8.8 lbs 24x30
For nursing does 8.8 lbs-11.9 lbs 24x36
For all other rabbits 4.4 lbs-8.8 lbs 18x24
For all other rabbits 8.8 lbs-11.9 lbs 24x24
Hanging cages are usually best if you have the space.
ottersatin
Well-known member
Picture of my Rabbit cages
They house my Satins.
Ottersatin.
ldtimer:
grumpy
Well-known member
Most of my Doe cages are 30X30 w/outside feeder and an extender added. All cages have an automatic watering system.
NOTE: You will see that all of the cages have electrical conduit ran through the top on the front.
This easy, economical practice prevents sagging along the front edges of the cages.
It gives a much neater appearance as well as maintaining the integrity of the cage from being warped out of square.
They are bound to the cages with industrial strength zip-ties.
I do have some 36X30's that hold special litters or replacements for the herd. All of my buck cages are 24X30.
The auxiliary water bottles allow an extra water source so the youngsters won't have to wait to get a drink.
Here's a shot of my main breeding room. 35 doe cages and 7 buck cages. Again, the extra water bottles are for does with litters.
My watering system is gravity fed from two water barrels. (one for each room). They are pressurized with a submersible pump that keeps water flowing through the system all of the time. During the winter, the water barrel cabinet is heated to 95-100 degrees. The water doesn't freeze.
Grumpy.
NOTE: You will see that all of the cages have electrical conduit ran through the top on the front.
This easy, economical practice prevents sagging along the front edges of the cages.
It gives a much neater appearance as well as maintaining the integrity of the cage from being warped out of square.
They are bound to the cages with industrial strength zip-ties.
I do have some 36X30's that hold special litters or replacements for the herd. All of my buck cages are 24X30.
The auxiliary water bottles allow an extra water source so the youngsters won't have to wait to get a drink.
Here's a shot of my main breeding room. 35 doe cages and 7 buck cages. Again, the extra water bottles are for does with litters.
My watering system is gravity fed from two water barrels. (one for each room). They are pressurized with a submersible pump that keeps water flowing through the system all of the time. During the winter, the water barrel cabinet is heated to 95-100 degrees. The water doesn't freeze.
Grumpy.
Cindi Davis
Well-known member
What a great Set up GRUMPY
wsmoak
Well-known member
Side to side and back to back in four-cage blocks. I'm using 30x36 for does (not planning to move them when they kindle, so enough room for the nest box and kits until they are weaned.)
I got a roll of 24" wire and made some 24x30's, but I didn't notice the wire was lighter gauge. I'll use those for bucks but I probably won't make any more unless I can find better wire.
I'm only planning to keep 4 does and 2 bucks, and I have plenty of room for them to all be in big cages.
I have a couple of 24x24's that work for quarantine.
I also learned the electrical conduit trick from Crossroads Rabbitry's site. It really does help when suspending cages -- I was always leery of hanging all that weight off a single square of the wire, figuring the welds were going to break at some point.
-Wendy
I got a roll of 24" wire and made some 24x30's, but I didn't notice the wire was lighter gauge. I'll use those for bucks but I probably won't make any more unless I can find better wire.
I'm only planning to keep 4 does and 2 bucks, and I have plenty of room for them to all be in big cages.
I have a couple of 24x24's that work for quarantine.
I also learned the electrical conduit trick from Crossroads Rabbitry's site. It really does help when suspending cages -- I was always leery of hanging all that weight off a single square of the wire, figuring the welds were going to break at some point.
-Wendy
grumpy
Well-known member
Wendy,
The conduit was something that I thought of years ago. Been doin' it for longer than I care to remember. It's a sure fire way to keep the stress and weight evened out along the entire length of the cage.
grumpy
The conduit was something that I thought of years ago. Been doin' it for longer than I care to remember. It's a sure fire way to keep the stress and weight evened out along the entire length of the cage.
grumpy
6riversfarms
Well-known member
grumpy":13trje2e said:
I am defiantly adding the conduit to my cage banks sometime soon.
Here are some pics of my rabbitry:
grumpy
Well-known member
hey Six.....PM your way....
grumpy.
grumpy.
wild1slilfarm
Well-known member
I love all the pics, has given me some great ideas
