Help with Bass Equipment Order
- Thread starter Hoping13
- Start date
Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
I would get the same size, that is what I use. Although, you *may* find it hard to reach the back corners with those 36x30 cages, since the doors are kind of small. Do they have them 36x24?
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
What breed are you going to raise? I think for most, 36" x 30" should be pretty good, especially if you split the litters by sex. I just made 2 growout cages that are 4' x 30", and split 3 different litters into them by sex. Each cage has about 10 rabbits in it. I need to make more- if I get at least two more made for now, I will further split the litters by meat/possible keepers.
Here is a link to the post I made on the first growout cage built:
new-growout-cage-t6599.html?hilit=new%20growout%20cage&start=15
Here is a link to the post I made on the first growout cage built:
new-growout-cage-t6599.html?hilit=new%20growout%20cage&start=15
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
MamaSheepdog":zcn7xbwx said:
Keep in mind that you have BIG doors on yours, Sistah! Unless she wants to enlarge and replace the doors on those Bass cages....they come with little doors and it will be hard to reach the corners in the back, especially if they are stacked.
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
OAF is right about that, H13. I have 24" x 30" cages from BASS, and I have to wedge my head and shoulders in them to get reluctant bunnies sometimes, and it is a tight squeeze. One other thing about BASS, they use 16 gauge floor wire, which will sag over time. Have you looked at cages from any other companies? Many will custom cut for you, and if you can get some built with 14 gauge floor wire you will be better off, especially with longer cages which will sag even more than the smaller sizes.
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
MamaSheepdog":1p9ncwac said:
Right, and I totally forgot about their floor wire being 16g....you will want 14g floor wire for sure...
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
OAF, I think we must each have 1/2 of the brain this morning! :? It is taking both of us to get a coherent suggestion made...
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
MamaSheepdog":ub9plcee said:
Guess that makes us "half-wits" eh? :lol:
Even though I am not far from Bass, I find that Klubertanz has a much better selection for the kind of cages that I look for. Actually, I buy wire from them and build my own cages, but I did buy a couple of cages for my grand-kids and they had (a choice of) heavier wire and "galvanized after" wire that I wanted.<br /><br />__________ Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:47 am __________<br /><br />Even though I am not far from Bass, I find that Klubertanz has a much better selection for the kind of cages that I look for. Actually, I buy wire from them and build my own cages, but I did buy a couple of cages for my grand-kids and they had (a choice of) heavier wire and "galvanized after" wire that I wanted.
Klubertanz is likely as close or closer to you than Bass, so the shipping should not be a problem.
Klubertanz is likely as close or closer to you than Bass, so the shipping should not be a problem.
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
I got my wire and stuff from Klubertanz and I can attest to the quality of their products...
Well we went ahead and ordered the 36x24 cages, and a couple larger cages for grow outs. DH wanted easy cages to start, and depending on how we want to move ahead with rabbits, we'll buy cage wire from there and build our own. This will at least get us started for now. Thanks for the suggestions.
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
Hoping13":1ie0l3kb said:
And you can always swap out the floor wire for 14g later if you want to!
Well, I talked to DH, and I went ahead and cancelled the order. What's the best way to make my cages? should we order pre-made Klubbertanz cages or wire and J clips? I'm reading through a bunch of other threads, but I just want to be sure I get it right when I do finally order.
Thanks for your patience and help!
Thanks for your patience and help!
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
Hoping13":chut6tai said:
Easiest would be to order the precut cages and get Jclips and a couple appliers.
There are a lot of factors determining what cages one should get. Cages and other equipment are going to be one of the largest cost of a rabbitry. I have a link to something I wrote a couple of years ago: post1236.html#p1236
Regular cages are made in 10' sections, 30" deep, with 3 compartments. I do this because I use sections of 1/2 inch conduit in the upper corners and brace the area below the doors with 1/4 inch cold rolled steel rod, which comes in 20 foot sections. There are some pluses to having individual cages though. I knew when I built my last cages that I would be raising rabbits or something in them for a long time, so it was reasonable for me to build them the best I could. I made a lot of mistakes with the first few I built and they had problems after a few years. First, 16 gauge floor wire sags after a while and causes ones crocks and nestboxes to sit at a tilt. It may not happen for a while but it will happen (even with floor supports) especially if one has 30"deep cages. To me 14 ga floor wire is a must.
I always get galvanized after wire. Galvanized before wire is electroplated, and when the cross joints are welded it burns that galvanizing off at each joint. Galvanized after wire is "hot dipped" which is a much thicker covering and it especially sticks well at the joints.
Both the 14ga. wire and the "galvanized after" wire will raise the cost of the cages, but I find that I can break even with the cheaper materials when building my own cages. "Baby-save" wire also costs more but it will save one lots of headaches. Instead of using baby-saver wire, I use floor wire 6" wider than I want the cage, and bend it up front back and on the ends 3". I still use regular baby saver wire for the partitions. Most of the deterioration on cages is caused by corrosion from urine. Since there are no joints or J-clips for 3 inches that means a lot less likelihood for hay, fur, and stuff to catch in the joints and thereby being a place for the urine to lodge. I have had my original (improved version) cage now for almost 40 years, and it is still in good shape.
I did make the mistake of using 16 gauge floor wire in it and there is enough tilt that I have to block up the inside corner of the nestbox so it will sit level.
PM me if you want the specs, the pictures in the original thread went south. If you look in the early part of the gallery, you will see some rabbit pictures and the old cage shows in them.
Each thing you do to make the cage last longer adds to the original cost... so if you are not sure about how long you are going to have rabbits, I would invest in 14 gauge floors over 16ga. first, and then see what more you want to invest from there. If you make a 10 foot strip of cages and don't have a partition every 40 inches or so, you will need a floor support.
Two things... if you make your own cages expect sore hands for a while. Also, never frame the cage with wood, even on the outside..even in a hutch, hang the cage from the roof rafters and keep it a few inches from wood on the sides.
Regular cages are made in 10' sections, 30" deep, with 3 compartments. I do this because I use sections of 1/2 inch conduit in the upper corners and brace the area below the doors with 1/4 inch cold rolled steel rod, which comes in 20 foot sections. There are some pluses to having individual cages though. I knew when I built my last cages that I would be raising rabbits or something in them for a long time, so it was reasonable for me to build them the best I could. I made a lot of mistakes with the first few I built and they had problems after a few years. First, 16 gauge floor wire sags after a while and causes ones crocks and nestboxes to sit at a tilt. It may not happen for a while but it will happen (even with floor supports) especially if one has 30"deep cages. To me 14 ga floor wire is a must.
I always get galvanized after wire. Galvanized before wire is electroplated, and when the cross joints are welded it burns that galvanizing off at each joint. Galvanized after wire is "hot dipped" which is a much thicker covering and it especially sticks well at the joints.
Both the 14ga. wire and the "galvanized after" wire will raise the cost of the cages, but I find that I can break even with the cheaper materials when building my own cages. "Baby-save" wire also costs more but it will save one lots of headaches. Instead of using baby-saver wire, I use floor wire 6" wider than I want the cage, and bend it up front back and on the ends 3". I still use regular baby saver wire for the partitions. Most of the deterioration on cages is caused by corrosion from urine. Since there are no joints or J-clips for 3 inches that means a lot less likelihood for hay, fur, and stuff to catch in the joints and thereby being a place for the urine to lodge. I have had my original (improved version) cage now for almost 40 years, and it is still in good shape.
I did make the mistake of using 16 gauge floor wire in it and there is enough tilt that I have to block up the inside corner of the nestbox so it will sit level.
PM me if you want the specs, the pictures in the original thread went south. If you look in the early part of the gallery, you will see some rabbit pictures and the old cage shows in them.
Each thing you do to make the cage last longer adds to the original cost... so if you are not sure about how long you are going to have rabbits, I would invest in 14 gauge floors over 16ga. first, and then see what more you want to invest from there. If you make a 10 foot strip of cages and don't have a partition every 40 inches or so, you will need a floor support.
Two things... if you make your own cages expect sore hands for a while. Also, never frame the cage with wood, even on the outside..even in a hutch, hang the cage from the roof rafters and keep it a few inches from wood on the sides.
SatinsRule
Well-known member
Order them from Klubertanz. You'll get better cages with heavier gauge wire for about the same money, AND their K-Series stackables are made with GAW wire and 14-gauge floor wire, as well as coming with dura-trays as opposed to the metal waste trays which will rust.
The cages will come pre-cut for you. As per the previous recommendations from a couple of the posters on this thread, get a couple pairs of good-quality j-clip pliers and c-ring pliers. Your hands will thank you for it afterward.
The cages will come pre-cut for you. As per the previous recommendations from a couple of the posters on this thread, get a couple pairs of good-quality j-clip pliers and c-ring pliers. Your hands will thank you for it afterward.
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
Also try Fry's Cages
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
Could we make a sticky with a list of all of the equipment suppliers? It would help us all to comparison shop by having the links readily available on one post.
SatinsRule
Well-known member
OneAcreFarm":3c4f3rfp said:
Yes, they make an excellent product as well, and VERY good people to do bidness with.
PatS
Well-known member
We orders ours from Klubertanz and are very happy with the quality and service. They are very reasonably priced, as well.
