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DrydenDan

DrydenDan

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Dryden, MI
I was on the Bass website and was looking into their stack-able cages. I have a couple questions if I can get some opinions.

1) Are the 30 X 30 cages big enough for Holland Lops to stay in? Does anyone know how tall they are?

2)What is the preference on the doors, Swing in or swing out?

3)What is the preference on the pans, ABS plastic or the metal pans?

Thank you in advance, look forward to hearing what you have to say.

Dan
 
Hello Dan,
I would go with the 30 X 30 cages being fine for Holland Lops.
The metal pans seem to rust while the Plastic will not.
So I'd go with plastic. I like my doors to swing in so
that should the rabbit push on the door it is pushed closed rather than opened,
but that is a personal preference. Whatever YOU are more comfortable with
would be the right choice.
Ottersatin. :eek:ldtimer:
 
Actually pricing it out Bass was $325 and change shipped with everything (j clips and pliers) and the wheels. Klubertanz was like $270 without the wheels and no pliers. I don't know what to do. I have been looking for cages for weeks. lol. Good thing I haven't found the right Hollands yet..lol..
 
I prefer doors that open out. The 30x30 stacker is either 16 or 18 inches, which is just enough for the rexes to climb onto the nest boxes, fine for the hollands as well. I have not ordered from Bass in a long time, these stackers were a gift from a fellow RT person, so I am not sure about the quality of the cage vs Kluberstanz, but I have a metal tray from at least 7 years ago, and it's completely rusted through, and I used tray pads back then. When I replace these pans, I'm going with the abs.
 
skysthelimit":2n5o1m2s said:
When I replace these pans, I'm going with the abs.
Click to expand...

How much clearance is there between the cages? I have been thinking that dropping boards would work, as long as they were scraped fairly frequently.
 
MamaSheepdog":sr2ob9ek said:
skysthelimit":sr2ob9ek said:
When I replace these pans, I'm going with the abs.
Click to expand...

How much clearance is there between the cages? I have been thinking that dropping boards would work, as long as they were scraped fairly frequently.
Click to expand...

Not more than two inches. I can't get my arm on the top of the next cage without removing the tray. There would be no room for proper slope of the boards.
 
I just lowered my boards, and have very little slope. I just scrape. If you did try it, I would go with flat plastic- the corrugated stuff would take up too much room for sure.
 
MamaSheepdog":rhfajpso said:
I just lowered my boards, and have very little slope. I just scrape. If you did try it, I would go with flat plastic- the corrugated stuff would take up too much room for sure.
Click to expand...


Wouldn't it just slide down the board onto the front of the cages? That seems like a mess?

The second set of stackers doesn't even look like their is more than an inch between them. That's how they would normally look if we were able to find the metal legs.

SS850164.jpg
 
I don't know how long your arms are, but I don't think I will ever get a cage that's 30'' deep because mine are so short. I practically have to crawl inside to reach the back corner as it is!

Does bass have a leggy stacker cage like klubertanz does? I don't like the stackers that are all one piece. I have some with the legs like above ^ I like them that way because I can shuffle things around. (I'm worse than the bunnies when it comes to rearranging stuff). When I get a better bunny barn, I can take off the legs and build a rack and dropping boards.

I have plastic dropping pans and I like them just fine. They don't bend sideways when they've got a lot of stuff in them; they hold their shape very well.
 
-HRanchito":ymys4opx said:
I don't know how long your arms are, but I don't think I will ever get a cage that's 30'' deep because mine are so short. I practically have to crawl inside to reach the back corner as it is!

I have plastic dropping pans and I like them just fine. They don't bend sideways when they've got a lot of stuff in them; they hold their shape very well.
Click to expand...

Never again. 30 inches was not my length of choice. I'm barely 5'3", so it is quite a stretch to catch a rabbit that doesn't want to be. That's why I'm not into the top lift door, the one I built, I scrape my forehead or get my hair caught in it all of the time, when I'm trying to get kits out.
 
I shouldn't have a problem with the height of the cages. I am 6'2" so that is not the issue. There is just so much out there and if I am going to spend that kind of money I just want to get it right the first time. So I know I am going with plastic trays. I am going with the 30 X 30 cages. I just need to figure out swing in doors or swing out.
Dan
 
I like doors that swing in for a couple of reasons, I'm not catching my tender skin on them and the rabbits can't escape as easily if you forget to latch them
 
ok, i got a question, do you alls rabbits really try to escape from their cages while your right there??????
I cant even imagine that, i have mine in outdoor hutches doors wide open while im feeding and cleaning and none of them try to jump out. I am careful not to close a door and not latch it though, i think one might fall out of its cage putting its feet against door thats not latched
 
No,
they don't usually try to escape,
but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
In case of an escape I have live traps available for use if needed.
Ottersatin :eek:ldtimer: .
 
michabo3000":34ysmaxw said:
ok, i got a question, do you alls rabbits really try to escape from their cages while your right there??????
I cant even imagine that, i have mine in outdoor hutches doors wide open while im feeding and cleaning and none of them try to jump out. I am careful not to close a door and not latch it though, i think one might fall out of its cage putting its feet against door thats not latched
Click to expand...

I have a 6 mos old buck, who I broke the door some time ago, and it is never closed. He is on the second tier and has never tried to escape. He is expendable, and I know I should fix the door, but he's not going anywhere. And then there is Scream's litter, and Fava's, where the kits just won't say in the cage. They've put bodies in between the door and fell from the third tier on more than one occasion. Three week old kits. And they keep doing it. Fava's 8 week old litter, I watched the bucks force themselves through the door right in front of me. It seems to be in the blood line, because previous litters from those two have done this, not only here but at the original breeders house. I just culled that entire litter. These guys did not fall out, the intentionally forced their way out. I have found that some rabbits just aren't tame.
 
So if I get swing in doors are they difficult to hold open. I am sure swing out are easier to keep open when you want them to be...Dan
 
DrydenDan":388x5faa said:
So if I get swing in doors are they difficult to hold open. I am sure swing out are easier to keep open when you want them to be...Dan
Click to expand...

doors that swing "in" and "up" have a small catch attached to the top of the pen where the door cradles into it and stays in the "up" position until you bump the latch for the door to fall closed.

I've got 80 holes. Half are in and up, the other half swing out. My persoanl preference are those that swing out. When I feed hay in the mornings, the fryers in the grow-out pens mob the doors. All are those that swing in and up which makes them tough to open.

Even with doors that swing in and up, if you fail to latch it properly, you'll have a rabbit race come morning trying to catch those who slip out through the cracked open door.

grumpy
 

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