Recent content by bunnygal

Avoid it. A void feeding anything with simple sugars (such as molasses) and avoid feeding starchy foods that the body converts to sugar (bread). Sugar can be a big problem in rabbits. Excess sugar can lead to GI stasis or cecal dysbiosis and either condition can result in dehydration and...

Hay does not need to be green to be ok. Different types of hay and the time of year and cutting of the hay are what dictate its color and there are a variety of ranges. Think of wild rabbits that eat everything and anything they can find of every imaginable color. Open the bale up and check...

You can (and should) take the nestbox out as soon as the eyes are open. They might be small in size - but once the eyes are open they can do all the same things as a full grown rabbit: eat solid food, drink water, explore, socialize, etc. In my experience, the sooner the nestbox is removed...

The domestic rabbit we all know and love is descended from the European wild rabbit, (Oryctolagus cuniculus). Those living in Europe/UK can interbreed domestic rabbits with wild rabbits because both species are O. Cuniculus genetically. However, here in the US (North America), we do not have...

Since all rabbits are made of meat, any can be eaten. However some breeds are outstanding as meat rabbits and others aren't worth the cost of raising them. Lionheads fall into this second catetgory. They are small and very, very boney. A typical meat brees, such as a New Zealand White...

The problem with the hutches that have a seperate bedding area is that there is no lip or step between the bedding area and the living quarters so the kits wander everywhere and end up scattered, often trampled and will often form several mini groups resulting in some not getting fed. Wood is...

Is there anywhere within any of my posts that say my chosen method was the only way or best way??? No. I was asked to describe my process and to share my method and that's what I did. I answered follow up questions the same way. Never once did I say this *MUST* be done or that *MUST* be...

I use 2 tablespoons per gallon. The general recommendation is 1 tbsp. but I found 2 works better. You should start with 1 tbsp. per gallon to get them used to the taste of it.

Nope - no hay at all. I often hear people say that little one will get enteritis without hay, but i've been at this over 30 years, have never fed hay and have never had any kits have a problem. Mom begins to feed kits cecotropes long before the kits would be old enough to eat hay and those...

Hi MaryAnn: Water is the difficult part in the winter. Unless you have a ridgid PVC autowater system with a circulating heat pump, it must be done by hand, which is what I do. I have a 6 gallon watering can. I fill it in the house and take it to the rabbits which are approx. 200 feet from...

Hi Mary Ann. My schedule is not for beginners and although i've been breeding rabbits for 37 years (since 1975)it wasn't until a decade ago that I really worked toward developing a line that could handle maximum reproduction in all weather while still maintaining condition. It took a lot of...

Hi Justin: Your schedule is fine if it meets (meats?) your needs. It wouldn't work for me because I have a very intense/aggressive breeding schedule that is much more fast paced than your schedule. Everything is there and it should work for you. I'm sure you'll make tweaks and changes as you...