Why not TSC cages?

[Secuono]

I read that you shouldn't bother with the tsc cages, but why the heck not? It's the same wire as the store sells to make your own. And I cannot find a 30x36in anywhere that is $38, they are all crazy expensive at $50-75! No thank you.

I wanted to use these, put them under the trees, have plywood on top w/a 8-10in over hang on all sides to help w/rain and snow. I was going to set them on a frame, no hanging.

So, if anyone can find a 30x36in cage for $40 elsewhere, I don't see why I should spend so much more and then shipping just for the same cage that seems superior.<br /><br />__________ Fri Nov 11, 2011 2:34 pm __________<br /><br />No one?

 

[MaggieJ]

Give it time, Chickiesnbunnies.

My understanding it that TSC cages use a thinner gauge of wire and that it is galvinized after welding, resulting in less coverage at the joins. Therefore they do not hold up as well. But I am only relying on memory of other people's comments over the years. I've never bought TSC cages... or anyone else's either. We built our original cages and bought a cheap grade of welded wire (not TSC). We were sorry about that before long. It did not held up well and I would have had to replace those cages had we not already decided to switch to colony raising.

 

[Frosted Rabbits]

The foor wire on the TSC cage is thinner,more apt to stretch and rust through. If you are dead set on buying, go ahead, but then, in a yer, be prepared to buy a heavier grade of wire to replace the floors and possibly some sidewalls. Most of us here, we have a cge, we want it to last a few years before needing to make repairs. It is a matter of conserving time and work, as well as money..

 

[Secuono]

It's no different from the wire I made my wooden hutches, it's the same gauge. I thought galvanized after welding was best because it covers the welds, too...

 

[akane]

The feedstore cages I have are very inferior wire to what I've bought by the roll or the cages I've seen from some of the major cage manufacturers and wire providers. Also the only cages my rabbits get hock sores in are the feed store cages even if the wire appears to be the same. All the ones we made ourselves from good quality wire have not caused hock sores even when they don't have a resting board and they aren't rusting. I only use the feed store cages for quarantine and hauling rabbits to be butchered now. A nearly wasted $40 each when another $10 to ship from one of the good suppliers or buy enough wire for 4 cages would have gotten me good quality, more useful cages.

 

[Secuono]

No supplier sells the size I need and then there is shipping.
If I bought wire, there would be shipping and door clips and door/edge protectors added.

 

[MaggieJ]

It's no different from the wire I made my wooden hutches, it's the same gauge. I thought galvanized after welding was best because it covers the welds, too...

I could have it the wrong way around... Told you I was going by memory. In any case, if you think you will be happy with the TSC cages, that is fine. Sometimes we have to go with what fits our needs and pocketbooks, even if others have different opinions.

 

[Secuono]

BASS seems to have what I want. I'm sure someone on here has bought from them and knows some answers.
How do their regular, non-kiwi built, assemble? I'm guessing it's just sheets of wire cut to the right side, but I need to add J clips and the such? Are the doors already hung or no?

One of the bigger cages says '$4 handling fee', but others even larger don't have this same fee, why?

 

[Random Rabbit]

I read that you shouldn't bother with the tsc cages, but why the heck not?

OK...here is my $.02 .

Last year we purchased TSC cages to house our rabbits. When we pulled the parts out of the carton to assemble... we were quite surprised to find the thinness of the wire. The clips they had on them are pretty much useless and we had to go around all edges with J clips to hold it together. The bottom wire sagged after a couple weeks use...( we have good size breeds ) The favorite corner for pottying rusted within a couple months. They are quite flimsey especially when compared to the cages DH was able to purchase later on.

They have their uses...we are not going to chuck them out after spending the $$$ on them... Used for isolation cages... or temporary housing for bunnies traveling thru...I just would prefer not to use them for long term housing.

Our first choice for flooring wire is 12 guage. Then 14 guage for sides and top. This will hold up for quite a while.

Anyway... this is My answer to 'why not TSC cages'. YMMV. :bunnyhop:

 

[Secuono]

Alright, everyone hates tsc cages.
What about BASS?

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I bought all of my rabbitry supplies from Bass, and could not be happier. Very good quality, they come pre-cut with more than enough J clips, and yes, you hang the door. The way the components are packaged makes it very simple to assemble them, and as long as you don't start flipping panels around, the floor wire will be 1/2" side up which is how you want it. You will need your own J-clip pliers to assemble.

The only things I didn't like from them are their skinning knife (not sharp enough) and the feed measuring cup (opaque black plastic). I bought clear plastic measuring cups to scoop the feed with and they work great.

 

[Secuono]

The 30x36in cage is what I want. But they want an extra $4 for handling fees. Larger cages don't have that fee, are they just being stingy and too lazy to just up the price and get over it or what??
I plan on calling them on Monday and find out, it makes no sense, period.
Thanks, mamasheepdog.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

What are you going to breed? Wallabies? Just kidding- lol!

When I was researching cage sizes there was so much conflicting info that I got really confused... I think the guidelines are written more for the pet market. Anyway, I spoke to a few different breeders before ordering my cages, and their recommendations saved me a lot of money and space.

My bucks are housed in 24"x24" holes (they said 24"x18" was good), and my does are in 24"x30". I raise standard Rex, and they seem to have plenty of room even when raising kits. I have a couple of pieces of 8"x8" beams that I use as step-stools so I can reach the corners of the doe's cages since they are on the top tier. I think a 36" cage would be a nightmare when you are stretching to catch an unwilling rabbit.

I hang 5 gallon plant pots in my cages as an alternative to resting boards- they can still access the floor space underneath the buckets, and I think they enjoy the snug feeling and probably retain warmth better in the winter. This is a picture of a junior doe napping in her bucket:

 

[Miss M]

I have Bass cages that are about a year and a half old. The floor wire started bowing in the center and bending between the J-clips not long after we got them. These are not normal meat rabbits in them -- they're on the small side. My husband assembled the cages as instructed, and I have had several broken J-clips. I just didn't expect that in only a year and a half.

The floor wire is 16 gauge, while the rest of the cage is 14 gauge. Why they put thinner wire for the floors is beyond me. At the time, I couldn't find cages that I could afford that had beefier floor wire, and we couldn't take the time to build them (hubby was starting a new job).

After I bought them, someone on here mentioned Woody's Wabbits. Their cages come with 14 gauge floor wire, and are priced similarly to Bass'. The larger cages even have a floor support bar.

Their 30" x 36" standard cages (no tray) are $37 and $40. I don't know what the difference is; you would have to call them. You also have to get a shipping quote -- if I recall correctly, after you submit your payment information. This made me feel a little strange, but, after reassurance from others on this forum who have dealt with them, I gave it a go. I can't even remember what I bought (not cages... I already had those), but I remember that the service was good, and the shipping was equitable.

Here's a link to page 2 of their cages: http://www.woodyswabbits.com/rabbit-sta ... =2&sort=1a<br /><br />__________ Sat Nov 12, 2011 2:05 am __________<br /><br />Mamasheepdog, I love that pot! Could I trouble you for a thread detailing the installation of them, with pics? Pleeeeeeease? :razz:

 

[downonthefarm]

Floor wire strength is definitely something to consider when purchasing 30x36 cages. We use them for french lops which typically weigh 12 to 14 lbs or more. This is a very large span to bear the weight load. Our floors are heavy gauge wire and work well. I've seen others that would need some kind of supports or they would sag.

 

[Secuono]

I built a wooden hutch, 6ft by 3ft for two rabbits. The 3x3 space really isn't big enough for my Silver Foxes.
I like them to have space to move and build muscle, not just sit idle in a square box their whole life. Rabbits do come from the wild with wide open space. Even my two Guinea Pigs have a good amount of space in the house, about 2ft by 7ft. They would have more if the house was larger and could accommodate them.
The hutch has full front doors. I put up the tsc cage last night, that tiny door will be a nightmare, not the size of the cage.
I found a lady w/2x2ft or so cages for $15. I'm going to get a 5 row set, maybe a second, she's 3hrs from me! I may open a wall to make them larger cages.
The tsc cage I will be adding 2 lines under the floor for extra support.
Hopefully I won't need to keep the breeding adults in cages next year except to winter them over. Hope to have the tractors done for them by mid spring.<br /><br />__________ Sat Nov 12, 2011 9:08 am __________<br /><br />

What are you going to breed? Wallabies? Just kidding- lol!

When I was researching cage sizes there was so much conflicting info that I got really confused... I think the guidelines are written more for the pet market. Anyway, I spoke to a few different breeders before ordering my cages, and their recommendations saved me a lot of money and space.

My bucks are housed in 24"x24" holes (they said 24"x18" was good), and my does are in 24"x30". I raise standard Rex, and they seem to have plenty of room even when raising kits. I have a couple of pieces of 8"x8" beams that I use as step-stools so I can reach the corners of the doe's cages since they are on the top tier. I think a 36" cage would be a nightmare when you are stretching to catch an unwilling rabbit.

I hang 5 gallon plant pots in my cages as an alternative to resting boards- they can still access the floor space underneath the buckets, and I think they enjoy the snug feeling and probably retain warmth better in the winter. This is a picture of a junior doe napping in her bucket:

Is that an EGG under the rabbit??
The plastic pots wouldn't hold up here, they get brittle, crack, buns will chew them and their fat butts jumping in would crack them even faster...
How are they hung? Could use those large kitty litter bins for mine...would need to make a hole in the back bottom for pee/poo to roll out.

 

[TariLynn]

Thanks to everyone for posting - currently we are using mix - matched, used cages and hutches right now but I want to eventually do something different. This is a great discussion and I am getting some great ideas. MamaSheepdog - the flower pots are so cool - how do you hang them up and what kind do you purchase.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

The 30x36in cage is what I want. But they want an extra $4 for handling fees. Larger cages don't have that fee, are they just being stingy and too lazy to just up the price and get over it or what??
I plan on calling them on Monday and find out, it makes no sense, period.
Thanks, mamasheepdog.

Some of the Bass cages come pre-assembled and some come as a kit. That may be the difference.

Now, as to the TSC issue, if you were going to have a small breed, indoors, they would be fine. For a commercial breed that is suitable for meat, that you are raising outdoors, then they don't work well. The gauge of the wire is too small, especially the floor, and they are galvanized BEFORE weld, so the welded spots are the first to rust out. You would be replacing them in a year, as opposed to a good 14 gauge GAW cage that costs more, but will last you five years or more. Also, the "J-clips" they sell are CRAP! They don't apply correctly and they will rust in a month. You might check around and see if there is a feed store or animal supply that makes cages. I get mine at a place locally and they average $30 -$40 per hole and they make them to my exact specs. Klubertanz also has good cages and wire. They are the only place I could find that will allow you to buy wire by the foot as opposed to by the roll.

 

[Secuono]

I hate J clips, none ever go on right. I use my own electric fencing wire to join panels.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

I hate J clips, none ever go on right. I use my own electric fencing wire to join panels.

That is basically what I am talking about...the cheap ones don't ever go on right. The good quality ones, like Klubertanz sells, run about $2-3 per lb and work like a charm.<br /><br />__________ Sun Nov 13, 2011 8:15 am __________<br /><br />

I have Bass cages that are about a year and a half old. The floor wire started bowing in the center and bending between the J-clips not long after we got them.

The floor wire is 16 gauge, while the rest of the cage is 14 gauge. Why they put thinner wire for the floors is beyond me.

That is exactly why I did not get cages from them. I got nesting boxes, water bottles, resting boards, etc. from Bass, but why put the thinner gauge on the floors? :shock: If it was 16g on the walls/roof and 14g on the floor then I would have gone with Bass. But my local guy makes great cages and for two banks of three hole, 30 x 30 and another bank of two holes, 24 x 30, plus 8 water bottles, eight 7.5in feeders/lids, and 8 resting boards plus tax came to $430.00. That is roughly $54 dollars per hole for everything, or $41 per hole, just for the cages.