transport cage

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andyva

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What's a good size for a transport cage? Thinking of making some with dividers. I'm guessing you want about a 12 x 12 x 18 space for adult meat breeds?
 
Klubertanz has them, compartment size is 10 x 16. Most of theirs are doubles so 16" wide and 20" long. Hope that helps.
 
Mine are 14 or 16" (can't remember) you want the floor two inches from the bottom of the wire to keep the bunns out of the mess they make in the carriers. I partially fill my trays with shavings before attaching the carrier to the tray.
 
I have a couple of little pet transport things that have a solid floor. I put hay or straw in them to kinda keep the rabbit off the floor. I only use them for short time/distance kinda things.

I have others that are two-part: pen and pan. Pen sits in the pan. Floor is an inch or two above the floor of the pan to keep rabbit out of the mess. I like these better and use them for longer times/trips. They're bigger, too, and I can put food and water in with them without worry that it'll totally mess up the back of the car or truck. These pens range from 18 x 24 x 12 to 12 x 18 x 12. (Don't think any of them are more than 12" tall.) A couple of them have dividers so I can seperate rabbits if need be.
 
SuburbanHomesteader":3h58yqwj said:
I have others that are two-part: pen and pan. Pen sits in the pan. Floor is an inch or two above the floor of the pan to keep rabbit out of the mess.

This is the type I use. Mine hold 4 rabbits, each in their own space, two spaces per side with about a 2" space in the center between the two sides that can be stuffed with hay and is accessible to all rabbits. I like these so much I bought a third one in PA earlier this month. Mine are made by Martin Cages.

My normal preparation is to line the bottom of the plastic pan with a puppy pad (it takes two to cover the pan bottom). On top of that I put pine shavings and a handfull of compressed wood pellets. The more absorbtion / odor control the better! If I'm on an overnight show trip or longer, I'll change the pan material out prior to coming home. Again, for odor control.
 
andyva":cnbauh1h said:
Thanks, that helps. I'm guessing 12" tall? Is that a good size for going on road trips, shows etc?

Depends upon available space in your vehicle, the size of your rabbits, and how many rabbits you want to transport at one time. Bigger carrier holes obviously equal less available space in your vehicle.

I bought some carriers from Bairrington's Equipment at last year's NASS, and they're great. Lightweight molded white plastic trays,individual access lids, and if I remember correctly, they're about 10" high. Other exhibitors are always asking me about them when they see them.
 
SatinsRule":2sg2uz01 said:
Depends upon available space in your vehicle, the size of your rabbits, and how many rabbits you want to transport at one time. Bigger carrier holes obviously equal less available space in your vehicle.

:lol: That is so true. In the interest of fuel economy, my rabbit express is a Honda Civic! If I drop the back seat, it can put 3 of the carriers I mentioned in the vehicle. All have to be put in thru the trunk as the dimension will not allow them to go thru the doors (coupe - not sedan). First cage goes in and is pulled thru to the passenger area. The remaining two cages will just (and I do mean just) fit side by side in the trunk compartment. I also have a smaller three rabbit carrier that I'm going to have to fit in also for my next show, as I have some folks interested in seeing a couple of rabbits I don't plan to show. Haven't made the fit yet, but that carrier may have to ride on the front passenger seat :up: Things we do to show a rabbit :p
 
Lastfling":25jsoaa6 said:
SatinsRule":25jsoaa6 said:
Depends upon available space in your vehicle, the size of your rabbits, and how many rabbits you want to transport at one time. Bigger carrier holes obviously equal less available space in your vehicle.

:lol: That is so true. In the interest of fuel economy, my rabbit express is a Honda Civic! If I drop the back seat, it can put 3 of the carriers I mentioned in the vehicle. All have to be put in thru the trunk as the dimension will not allow them to go thru the doors (coupe - not sedan). First cage goes in and is pulled thru to the passenger area. The remaining two cages will just (and I do mean just) fit side by side in the trunk compartment. I also have a smaller three rabbit carrier that I'm going to have to fit in also for my next show, as I have some folks interested in seeing a couple of rabbits I don't plan to show. Haven't made the fit yet, but that carrier may have to ride on the front passenger seat :up: Things we do to show a rabbit :p


Ain't that the truth? My rabbit transport is now a Honda CRV. I can get 20 in it easily if I use the right sized carriers. The larger ones eat up alot of the available space rather quickly, but the mileage I get out of that Honda (30+ mpg highway) beats what I was getting out of my Chevy truck by nearly 2X.
 
Yeah, I am having to MacGuyver some transport cages for the show next weekend ... broken kitty litter pan with appropriate duct tape repair, left over piece of regular cage floor wire, cut to size with down bent sides to hold bottom above tray, left over top wire for sides and top, j-clips to hinge the top and baling wire hooks to keep top closed, and to make lifting handle ... mmmm, more baling wire hooks to disperse lift pressure :)

Then, I need a couple of 3 hole ones for the juniors ... use hardware cloth for the divider to keep biting to a minimum :p
 
Wire dividers or solid? Wire would have to be 1/2"x1" (floor wire) I assume.

I have always found that lifestock that is packed relatively tight (within reason) on a trailer is safer than having too much room. I would think the same principals would be involved with rabbits.
 
Andy, yes, I am putting 1/4" hardware cloth in for the divider. Right now, the kits are in the same growout cage, but as you say, for transport, close quarters makes the animal feel safer, and in case of an accident, is safer for the rabbit to not have a lot of room to be thrown around in. But, even though they are still in the same growout cage, they have room to move around and spread out, so I don't want them to get any ideas while in close quarters during transport.
 
andyva":1m1vo036 said:
Wire dividers or solid? Wire would have to be 1/2"x1" (floor wire) I assume.

I have always found that lifestock that is packed relatively tight (within reason) on a trailer is safer than having too much room. I would think the same principals would be involved with rabbits.

I prefer solid dividers, but both have their own unique challenges.

Packing them tight has advantages and disadvantages. It works well for short show trips in mild weather, but where you run into issues is when you have to try and water them. Since most of my shows are 300+ miles each way, I pretty much have to factor in space for feed and water cups.
 
I figured I could add cardboard to the dividers if I needed to. For longer trips, I figured I would take the indoor corral for a bit of space for them to stretch and eat/drink.
 
SatinsRule":rbdsdcon said:
andyva":rbdsdcon said:
Wire dividers or solid? Wire would have to be 1/2"x1" (floor wire) I assume.

I have always found that lifestock that is packed relatively tight (within reason) on a trailer is safer than having too much room. I would think the same principals would be involved with rabbits.

I prefer solid dividers, but both have their own unique challenges.

Packing them tight has advantages and disadvantages. It works well for short show trips in mild weather, but where you run into issues is when you have to try and water them. Since most of my shows are 300+ miles each way, I pretty much have to factor in space for feed and water cups.

My dividers are solid and like you I have to factor in cups, primarily feed as I attach the small bottles to the outside for water. If I put it in cups, there's usually a mess in a very short time. Those that lock on the cage side or not.<br /><br />__________ Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:32 pm __________<br /><br />Also, as for cardboard - it wouldn't last with mine. They'd make it their mission to see how long it would take to dig through to the other side!
 
Lastfling":29t3gtmv said:
SatinsRule":29t3gtmv said:
andyva":29t3gtmv said:
Wire dividers or solid? Wire would have to be 1/2"x1" (floor wire) I assume.

I have always found that lifestock that is packed relatively tight (within reason) on a trailer is safer than having too much room. I would think the same principals would be involved with rabbits.

I prefer solid dividers, but both have their own unique challenges.

Packing them tight has advantages and disadvantages. It works well for short show trips in mild weather, but where you run into issues is when you have to try and water them. Since most of my shows are 300+ miles each way, I pretty much have to factor in space for feed and water cups.

My dividers are solid and like you I have to factor in cups, primarily feed as I attach the small bottles to the outside for water. If I put it in cups, there's usually a mess in a very short time. Those that lock on the cage side or not.

__________ Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:32 pm __________

Also, as for cardboard - it wouldn't last with mine. They'd make it their mission to see how long it would take to dig through to the other side!

Maybe I live a charmed life, but I have yet to have a rabbit take out an E-Z Crock.
 
[/quote] Maybe I live a charmed life, but I have yet to have a rabbit take out an E-Z Crock.[/quote]

E-Z Crocks are good! That's what I used also and yep, still waiting for one to be taken out :D
 

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