Starting netherland Dwarf breed

[Rabbit123]

Hello everyone,

I am starting a netherland dwarf rabbit breeding project. I will be purchasing a quality mature male and female dwarf soon, but I do have a few questions I would love to have answered if anyone might know an answer.

1.) if I have a double hutch, like one half on top one half on bottom, will that be ok for breeding when I move the doe to the bucks half, or will the scents mingle and decrease chances of breeding?

2.) Is it true that the males can become infertile if exposed to temperature of 80 degrees or higher? How much of a problem is this?

3.) is it true that the first litter is rarely a healthy litter?

4.) anyone have any good tips or experiences for breeding these?

I have bred rabbits before, and bred many other animals, but I have never done netherland dwarfs so I appreciate any help given.

Thank you

 

[Dood]

1.) if I have a double hutch, like one half on top one half on bottom, will that be ok for breeding when I move the doe to the bucks half, or will the scents mingle and decrease chances of breeding?

mixing scent is not a problem - getting pooped and peed on is.

2.) Is it true that the males can become infertile if exposed to temperature of 80 degrees or higher? How much of a problem is this?

yes it is true and is a temporary sterility not permenant. Many rabbits in hot climates will not get pregnant in the summer months due to the heat. If does are too hot they can re-absorb their fetuses and some members on this forum have already had rabbits die from heat stoke this year.

3.) is it true that the first litter is rarely a healthy litter?

unfortunately it is now normal for Netherland Dwarfs to have stuck kits or still born litters in their first second and even third pregnancies. When picking your stock please ask details questions about birthing difficulties your new bunnies parents had. Pinched hips is also a common defect found in ND now a days and of course peanuts, max factors and hippo kits are common in the breed.

4.) anyone have any good tips or experiences for breeding these?

I would recommend breeding a false dwarf doe to a true dwarf buck to avoid getting peanuts and pick a doe with nice wide hips, a longer loin and with a more mandolin shaped body to minimize birthing problems.

 

[Peach]

You'll be fine,but watch out for a buck that's excited! You might take a squirt of pee aimed at the most inconvenient places. It happens!

Bucks can be temporarily sterile if it gets too hot, but I haven't had a problem with it. I usually breed early before the harsh summer heat sets in. Otherwise, they are getting fanned, ice blocks, and sprinkled with the hose.

Do make sure you have enough room for babies! Sometimes you get stuck with kits longer than you plan. If you aren't going to eat them after they haven't sold by X date, then be ready to take care of them until you can find them homes. You'll want a cage to at least separate your does from your bucks.

When looking for stock, do invest on quality stock and go to a breeder with a good reputation. I've seen a lot of people purchase the $20 Netherlands with the toothpick legs and donkey ears. Paying a little more for rabbits that fit the SOP very nicely in the long run will be worth it. I'm not saying buy the $300 rabbit, but do expect to pay $50-$125 for decent stock. To be on the safe size, purchase proven stock if you can. Your chances of having kits goes up if they have the information that they have successfully had and raised a litter.

Always do a check up for split penises, vent disease,etc. Like Dood said, flip them over and pay attention to their feed. You want straight,wide parallel feet. You want this | | not this V. When you see a V, the rabbit is pinched. You can also tell a rabbit is pinched when you run your hand down a nicely posed animal, and their hips aren't catching.

Things to look out for in the breed: Too long ears, refined bone, snipey head, lacking width,long bodied, and weak and long shoulders.

You're buck should have the best qualities and your does can have a few minor things not so great, but make sure your buck will compliment their weaknesses. No breeder will sell you their best, but they should be willing to sell you "pieces of the puzzle" if they have it available.

A good reminder? Don't get crazy with your bloodlines. The more bloodlines, the less predictability.

 

[HoppinHalfPints]

You'll be fine,but watch out for a buck that's excited! You might take a squirt of pee aimed at the most inconvenient places. It happens!

Bucks can be temporarily sterile if it gets too hot, but I haven't had a problem with it. I usually breed early before the harsh summer heat sets in. Otherwise, they are getting fanned, ice blocks, and sprinkled with the hose.

Do make sure you have enough room for babies! Sometimes you get stuck with kits longer than you plan. If you aren't going to eat them after they haven't sold by X date, then be ready to take care of them until you can find them homes. You'll want a cage to at least separate your does from your bucks.

When looking for stock, do invest on quality stock and go to a breeder with a good reputation. I've seen a lot of people purchase the $20 Netherlands with the toothpick legs and donkey ears. Paying a little more for rabbits that fit the SOP very nicely in the long run will be worth it. I'm not saying buy the $300 rabbit, but do expect to pay $50-$125 for decent stock. To be on the safe size, purchase proven stock if you can. Your chances of having kits goes up if they have the information that they have successfully had and raised a litter.

Always do a check up for split penises, vent disease,etc. Like Dood said, flip them over and pay attention to their feed. You want straight,wide parallel feet. You want this | | not this V. When you see a V, the rabbit is pinched. You can also tell a rabbit is pinched when you run your hand down a nicely posed animal, and their hips aren't catching.

Things to look out for in the breed: Too long ears, refined bone, snipey head, lacking width,long bodied, and weak and long shoulders.

You're buck should have the best qualities and your does can have a few minor things not so great, but make sure your buck will compliment their weaknesses. No breeder will sell you their best, but they should be willing to sell you "pieces of the puzzle" if they have it available.

A good reminder? Don't get crazy with your bloodlines. The more bloodlines, the less predictability.

x2. If you are planning on showing, I would recommend getting a weight scale and a Standard of Perfection. These are SO handy, because you will be able to weigh your rabbits for their pedigrees (if any) and make sure they are close to the SOP.

Good luck!