Pulling fur

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Br. Fidelis Ebeyer

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Our NZ doe is now pulling fur on day 30 after breeding. She kinda just stopped but her nest looks finished. Is she just waiting to deliver? Is it normal to stop building when they’re done? How long is it usually between pulling fur and birth? We gave her straw and corn husk to build her nest. She actually really liked the corn husk. Any tips for caring for kits in the blazing heat of summer?
 
Usually they'll give birth within 24 hours. And often if you think they pulled lots of fur now you'll wonder how she can have any left after the kits are born.

Heat wise : lots of cool water for mom and shade for the cage
 
She just kindled today!

This is our first litter. What’s the best pellet mix/brand for a nursing doe? Or any meat rabbit for that matter… what’s the max temperature the doe and kits can be exposed to? I’ve heard horror stories of stressed moms who eat their kits.

Thanks for all the help.
 
She just kindled today!

This is our first litter. What’s the best pellet mix/brand for a nursing doe? Or any meat rabbit for that matter… what’s the max temperature the doe and kits can be exposed to? I’ve heard horror stories of stressed moms who eat their kits.

Thanks for all the help.
Yay! Congratulations on persisting!

I always try to keep the doe on the same pellets she's been eating all along, since rabbits generally do not respond well to change. Most of the commercial brands are good-enough-for-ya; in my experience success depends more on consistently feeding good fresh pellets (nothing that looks faded brown instead of greenish, or that smells moldy or "off" compared to what usually comes out of the bag), and not changing brands and formulas.

I feed my Satins and Champagne D'Argents 16% protein pellets made by a local feed store, and if the litters are big (>8) or the doe seems to be losing weight or condition, I supplement with about 1 Tbs of BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds) per day to give the doe more fat with which to make milk.

Other breeders like a higher protein pellet (18%) but I have found that my rabbits don't need it, and the extra protein ends up on the barn floor (excreted in the urine) producing flies. There's an old adage that you should "breed to the feed" and it does seem to work that way; eventually your rabbits grow and breed with what you give them (assuming you're not malnourishing them, but that's not usually a problem with commercial pellets).

The kits begin to nibble on the doe's poops in the nest box fairly early on, which will colonize their guts with the microorganisms from the doe's gut that help her digest her food. So in theory, anything you're feeding the doe should be fine for the kits to eat when they start coming out of the box.

I don't know about the max temps a doe and litter could tolerate (it's not much of an issue in Alaska) but I would think it depends on humidity and air movement as well as the temperature. There are others on this forum who have experience and idea for dealing with that, but I'd certainly keep her as cool as possible and keep an eye on her for signs of stress.

If you're concerned about the kits overheating, you can pull the box out during the heat of the day and keep it indoors in a cooler place, returning it in the cool of the morning and/or evening for the doe to feed the bunnies. Most does only feed the babies once or twice and they don't really seem to miss them if you take the box out in between.
 
I am having this problem with an experienced doe, this is her 5th litter she should have had them two days ago. she is healthy, active and has a beautiful nest made. Any Ideas?
 
I am having this problem with an experienced doe, this is her 5th litter she should have had them two days ago. she is healthy, active and has a beautiful nest made. Any Ideas?
at 5 litters she should LOOK pregnant...is she still round? I have an older doe who "skipped" last litter. She was pregnant, then she wasn't. Made a nest, no babies. I assume they did not make it for whatever reason and she cleaned up the evidence before I saw it.
Give her a few more days, and check her belly when she is laying on her side for movement.
 
okay, this is a morning Late. we have our bunnies. THE real surprise is the fact this doe has always given me babies on day 30 as well as a litter of 10. Well here we are day 34 and a litter of 5, I guess everyone is allowed an off day LOL. She is still one of the best mommas I have.
 
Yay! Congratulations on persisting!

I always try to keep the doe on the same pellets she's been eating all along, since rabbits generally do not respond well to change. Most of the commercial brands are good-enough-for-ya; in my experience success depends more on consistently feeding good fresh pellets (nothing that looks faded brown instead of greenish, or that smells moldy or "off" compared to what usually comes out of the bag), and not changing brands and formulas.

I feed my Satins and Champagne D'Argents 16% protein pellets made by a local feed store, and if the litters are big (>8) or the doe seems to be losing weight or condition, I supplement with about 1 Tbs of BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds) per day to give the doe more fat with which to make milk.

Other breeders like a higher protein pellet (18%) but I have found that my rabbits don't need it, and the extra protein ends up on the barn floor (excreted in the urine) producing flies. There's an old adage that you should "breed to the feed" and it does seem to work that way; eventually your rabbits grow and breed with what you give them (assuming you're not malnourishing them, but that's not usually a problem with commercial pellets).

The kits begin to nibble on the doe's poops in the nest box fairly early on, which will colonize their guts with the microorganisms from the doe's gut that help her digest her food. So in theory, anything you're feeding the doe should be fine for the kits to eat when they start coming out of the box.

I don't know about the max temps a doe and litter could tolerate (it's not much of an issue in Alaska) but I would think it depends on humidity and air movement as well as the temperature. There are others on this forum who have experience and idea for dealing with that, but I'd certainly keep her as cool as possible and keep an eye on her for signs of stress.

If you're concerned about the kits overheating, you can pull the box out during the heat of the day and keep it indoors in a cooler place, returning it in the cool of the morning and/or evening for the doe to feed the bunnies. Most does only feed the babies once or twice and they don't really seem to miss them if you take the box out in between.
We have our rabbits on 18% protein but we only give each about 3/4 cup per day and unlimited grass hay. I also supplement dandelion to ensure a good source of vitamins a and e. Would it be safe to drop down to 16% given the bulk of their diet is hay? I can’t imagine grass hay would be a great source of protein. What do you think?
 
2% isn't much anyway, it's not even easy to measure the given amount that exactly., I doubt you'll see any difference. It also depends on the rabbits if they can make use of that much protein anyway. Hay can be all they need, depends on which cut etc, composition can vary quite a bit. Next breeder down the road just feeds hay and some barley, has faster grow rates than my forage fed, free roaming herd.

If you are not going for record growth in shortest time I wouldn't worry too much about how much pellets, I have just a single brand that I can buy in 50lbs bags and that meet my criteria - which is that it is not laced with meat growth antibiotics disguised as Cocciostatica (creates resistent strains in a short time anyway).
 
We have our rabbits on 18% protein but we only give each about 3/4 cup per day and unlimited grass hay. I also supplement dandelion to ensure a good source of vitamins a and e. Would it be safe to drop down to 16% given the bulk of their diet is hay? I can’t imagine grass hay would be a great source of protein. What do you think?
My adult Satins get 2/3 cup of pellets per day of 16% and do well on that. They also get hay, but not every day.

Over the years I've gone from 16% to 18% and back to 16% and did not find any difference other than the increased protein excretion causing more flies.
 
My adult Satins get 2/3 cup of pellets per day of 16% and do well on that. They also get hay, but not every day.

Over the years I've gone from 16% to 18% and back to 16% and did not find any difference other than the increased protein excretion causing more flies.
Wow only 2/3 per day. I thought I was being frugal with only 3/4. So do you think I can get away with only 1/2 of 18% feed per rabbit per day? We get a good soy-free feed (country acres) it is kinda expensive so we don’t want to overload if we don’t have to. Do you give expecting or nursing does more pellets?

Thanks I appreciate all your experience
 
Wow only 2/3 per day. I thought I was being frugal with only 3/4. So do you think I can get away with only 1/2 of 18% feed per rabbit per day? We get a good soy-free feed (country acres) it is kinda expensive so we don’t want to overload if we don’t have to. Do you give expecting or nursing does more pellets?

Thanks I appreciate all your experience
Satins are a particularly feed-efficient breed, even more than Cals or New Zealands, so you may not be able to get away with as little feed as I do.

I start out free-feeding growers, but once they reach maturity or are near their senior weight, I restrict the pellets.

I generally figure out how much to give my rabbits by feeding them at about the same time each day, and measuring their feed. When I come back to feed them the next day, I want to see the feeder empty and the rabbits hungry. If they have pellets left, I reduce their ration; if they are crazy ravenous, increase the ration. In all these years, I have rarely or maybe even never had an adult Satin need more than 2/3 cup per day, though I have had individuals that got fat on that and needed much less (in the range of 1/2 cup per day for a couple of does who just stay fat on barely anything). Our Polish bunnies eat a scant 1/3 cup per day, sometimes even less than that.

I also handle and observe my rabbits a lot, and keep tabs on their body condition. If I start to see or feel spine or ribs, I up the ration a little. More often, though, the problem is fat - squishy, flabby shoulders are the tip-off. In that case I reduce the ration, but I do give them hay so that they don't feel like they're starving and miserable while they slim down.

For pregnant and nursing does, I do not increase the ration, unless the doe seems to be losing condition, when I would up the amount of feed I give her. But generally I keep them on the same ration until the kits are coming out and eating from the feeder, at which point I shift to free-feeding. However I do often supplement nursing does that have normal-to-large litters, with a tablespoon of BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds) per day. The additional fat seems to help them produce plenty of milk for the kits, and they maintain their body condition nicely. A side benefit is that I give them BOSS in a treat cup when I pull the box for a nest check, and very quickly the does are all too happy to have me mess around in their nest box!

I don't routinely feed hay, because it is a headache to clean up after, especially in the winter. But I do know that when I tractor the grow-outs in the summer, they eat FAR less pellets than ones grown in cages. I still offer them pellets, but they consume about half what the caged bunnies do. Interestingly, they look smaller and have lower live weights than the caged bunnies, but at butchering, I get about the same amount of meat - the caged bunnies just have a ton more fat than the very lean tractored bunnies. So a least in this case, I'm buying some of the pellets to make fat (which I don't especially want, but do not throw away).

To answer your specific question about feeding 1/2 cup of 18% pellets, I'd say you'd have to give it a try and watch how your rabbits respond. I'm not sure that feeding less pellets of a higher protein content is necessarily a good trade-off, but you can try it and if it works, go for it. In my herd, I have found that it is less the percentage of protein and more the fat content that determines condition.
 
I feed my herd 1/2 cup per rabbit, 1 cup per pregnant/kitted doe. Unlimited timothy grass and fresh grass twice a day. I get excellent fryers and happy rabbits all around, come winter my breeders all get 1 cup and timothy grass, while my house rabbits remain on 1/2 cup or they become plump.
 
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