Pros and cons of Rex for meat?

[FourRingCircus]

Trying to sort through what direction I want to go with my rabbits. Thank to RT I am now aware of a place that has harlequin rex rabbits just a couple counties over from me. I love love love the harlequin coloring... I have 2 NZW does that have it hidden, and a harle-chestnut buck (an offspring of one of the two does) plus access to a tri-color buck (used to be mine, ran out of room so DH's cousin has him now) that will throw a harle or two each litter. The Rex are seriously tempting, but not sure what I would gain going with them over starting to develop my own rabbits from what I have. I know the ones I currently have with that coloring are slower to grow and smaller overall so for meat they aren't ideal (their dress out percentages without any organs was around 50-53% - not sure how much the edible organs would add to that).

 

[Miss M]

I was surprised by our Rex... I'm pretty sure they've gained just about as well as our Calis.

 

[Ramjet]

The main draw with rex is the hides .... there just aint nothing like them.

They grow a bit slower than most other commercial breeds or mutts ... but to me the hides more than make up for that extra couple weeks. It's the difference between a $6 hide or up to a $40 hide depending upon color and tanning method.

I usually keep mine to the 14 week point even if they have reached that magic 5lb weight as I tend to get a much higher quality hide then as compared to 10 weeks.

 

[GBov]

Plus the temperament, mothering abilities and just plain coolness of the breed!

And with harlies, you might just have a super market for them.

Hmm, is that a plus or a minus? :lol:

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I raise Rex and I love their temperaments, their beautiful heads, and their amazing fur.

They grow a bit slower than most other commercial breeds or mutts

I usually keep mine to the 14 week point even if they have reached that magic 5lb weight

I have been thinking about this, and have come to the following conclusion; since Rex are a 4 class breed (as opposed to a 6 class like other commercial rabbits) and thus mature to a smaller weight, I think the 5lbs at 8 weeks is pretty unrealistic.

I also feel that they should probably be butchered at about 4lbs in light of that, and would probably be on a par growth wise with most other breeds if we take their smaller adult size into consideration.

 

[Ramjet]

I raise Rex and I love their temperaments, their beautiful heads, and their amazing fur.

They grow a bit slower than most other commercial breeds or mutts

I usually keep mine to the 14 week point even if they have reached that magic 5lb weight

I have been thinking about this, and have come to the following conclusion; since Rex are a 4 class breed (as opposed to a 6 class like other commercial rabbits) and thus mature to a smaller weight, I think the 5lbs at 8 weeks is pretty unrealistic.

I also feel that they should probably be butchered at about 4lbs in light of that, and would probably be on a par growth wise with most other breeds if we take their smaller adult size into consideration.

If we are talking about meat production only , you are probably correct .... But a big part of the appeal in having Rex is those plush hides. I can get a 4lb Rex around 8ish weeks but .... I'm not going to get a quality hide at that age.
The commercial Rex breeders in France (orylag - call it what you will , its a Rex) keep them to 24 weeks .... Most of those I've read about in other countries (generally South America) keep them to 18-20 weeks. By that time they are at or above the typical butchering weight of other commercial breeds.

I generally keep mine to somewhere between 14 & 16 weeks depending on space and demand .... they'll be above that 5lb mark too. A typical carcass will weigh #3.5-#3.75.
My meat customers are quite happy with them willing to pay top prices , I get $30 per when they could probably buy a commercially produced rabbit for $16-18. Tho it is a bit larger , they know exactly what went into producing that meat , its living conditions as well as how it was dispatched.

$30 per .... Many struggle to sell their rabbits as pets at that price. They pay for themselves , I get plenty to eat and get to keep the hides , that's a pretty good deal if ya ask me. I sure don't mind keeping them an extra few weeks all things considered.

My adults do vary quite a bit in size , one line producing does #11.5 at maturity and another line that struggles to make senior weights. The larger only puts on weight slightly faster. Maybe #.3 at 10 weeks difference , just continues to grow a little longer.
The larger line does have a much more voracious appetite .... while the smaller line are very economic. It's interesting to see differences between the two.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

If we are talking about meat production only , you are probably correct .... But a big part of the appeal in having Rex is those plush hides. I can get a 4lb Rex around 8ish weeks but .... I'm not going to get a quality hide at that age.
The commercial Rex breeders in France (orylag - call it what you will , its a Rex) keep them to 24 weeks

Yes, all correct and valid points.

In European countries they would cringe at the idea of eating a fryer, much preferring the stronger flavor of more mature animals. In north America, however, the preference has historically been for fryers.

I had the best intentions of tanning pelts, but have so far never done so.

I started with rabbits primarily as a meat source, but my focus has shifted to show animals. I still have plenty of culls for meat, but animals that lack potential are generally processed pretty young, whether for meat for myself or sold intact to my buyer of rabbit carcasses for various animal feed use.

I get $30 per when they could probably buy a commercially produced rabbit for $16-18.

Whoa! :bow: Way to go!!!

 

[Deer Heart]

NGL; My preference for roasters vs fryers is what lead me to click this thread. I'm not fond of fryers myself, even the name makes me cringe as I'm getting older and fried foods make me sick as heck. I like a meat that requires next to no "additions" to taste good.

So I was considering in light of my difficulty finding NZ(anycolorbutwhite butwhitetoo), of breaking into Rex in the future for the fur and color variation.

Especially as I hope to later down the line (as was a main goal at the start but one that is a long way off yet) to make dolls out of the pelts; having varying types of fur to work with (and especially something as decadent as rex fur) would be to my benefit. The hardest part for me though is the fact they get sore hock as easily as they do so I would need to change my cages for them especially? Then deal with the hygiene issues that that would create.

 

[FourRingCircus]

I was curious about the cages... I know sore hocks are an issue. I have a larger ceramic tile in each one for my current rabbits, but wasn't sure that would be enough.

I want so bad to be content with just NZWs for meat, but I guess I just get bored too easily (my ADD comes out in a variety of ways I guess? Not only can I not hold a conversation, or focus on much of what I read, but furniture gets rearranged often, I never make the same quilt or crochet pattern twice, etc. :roll: Sucks having a pin ball machine for a brain).

 

[Ramjet]

I don't have a problem with sore hocks at all .... But I use a heavy gage wire for the cage bottoms & give them a resting boards that are multiple boards with space between them to allow droppings to fall thru. They do not pee on them as long as you don't put them in the corner that they use as their toilet. Also gives them something to chew on ....

If you use thin bottom wire (hardware cloth is a BIG NO NO!) or they get fat and don't have a resting board you can run into trouble.

 

[FourRingCircus]

I have 6 purchased hanging cages that I am guessing would be OK? Then hutches that have hardware cloth (purchased before I knew any better, but they were a screamin' good deal so I can't complain even if I have to somehow replace the floors. Still trying to figure that out).

 

[Ramjet]

I have 6 purchased hanging cages that I am guessing would be OK? Then hutches that have hardware cloth (purchased before I knew any better, but they were a screamin' good deal so I can't complain even if I have to somehow replace the floors. Still trying to figure that out).

Depends on the gauge of the wire bottoms .... The really cheap ones have thin (16-18gage) wire floors , I use 14 gauge galvanized AFTER welding. This is important because the galvanized before welding can rust and the abrasiveness can really do some damage to a heavy rabbit.

 

[FourRingCircus]

I will look closer tomorrow. I forget the brand, Pet Logic maybe?

 

[Deer Heart]

I have 6 purchased hanging cages that I am guessing would be OK? Then hutches that have hardware cloth (purchased before I knew any better, but they were a screamin' good deal so I can't complain even if I have to somehow replace the floors. Still trying to figure that out).

Depends on the gauge of the wire bottoms .... The really cheap ones have thin (16-18gage) wire floors , I use 14 gauge galvanized AFTER welding. This is important because the galvanized before welding can rust and the abrasiveness can really do some damage to a heavy rabbit.

I have KW hanging cages, it does not say if their standard is GAW but looking at it, I'm assuming it is because the entire thing looks re-coated in metal? But I am pretty sure it's 16 GA as they offer 14 as an upgrade. I have marble resting pads but I stopped using them because the NZW will pee and poop on them no matter where I place them then lay on it. :| Would that work for Rex?

 

[Ramjet]

I have KW cages , I believe the GAW is standard .... I did pay for the upgraded floors. Galvanization is a zinc coating. Do it before the weld and the zinc coating burns away during the welding process.

I don't see why a marble slab wouldn't work .... probably easier to keep clean than wood if they do pee on them and wont hold near the bacteria.

My rabbits seem to each have a corner of the cage they pee in , wont pee in any other spot. It's rare that I have one who will pee on the resting board , if they do , there is usually a reason - like their hocks are already tender .... I wont keep them.
I have several that don't have one .... and I don't generally give the grow outs one as they don't have the weight to cause problems. The 14g wire makes a big difference.

 

[FourRingCircus]

I am pretty sure it's GAW. No idea on the size of the wire though. Boxes are long gone.

 

[Kelliii4]

Hello, I raise rex for meat rabbits. I use the rex primarily for fur, I do no butcher until 5 months of age when they are at their prime. I am trying to figure out how to post pictures of my rex blanket I have started. As for the flooring, I use wire cages with lattice zip tied to the bottom. It is cheap and j can cut it to my desire.

 

[Miss M]

Welcome to RabbitTalk, Kelliii4! :welcomewagon:

I am trying to figure out how to post pictures of my rex blanket I have started.

I would love to see your Rex blanket! Here's the simpler way to post pictures: attachment-tutorial-t5.html

As for the flooring, I use wire cages with lattice zip tied to the bottom. It is cheap and j can cut it to my desire.

I think we have one other member who uses lattice in their cages like that. It sounds like it would work really well for Rex in particular.

 

[Rabbitdog]

Hello, I raise rex for meat rabbits. I use the rex primarily for fur, I do no butcher until 5 months of age when they are at their prime. I am trying to figure out how to post pictures of my rex blanket I have started. As for the flooring, I use wire cages with lattice zip tied to the bottom. It is cheap and j can cut it to my desire.

Wow! Would love to see the blanket as well as instructions on making it. I have a plan to do the same thing (at some point). Please share!

... The 14g wire makes a big difference.

I can't agree more!!! 14g after welding is absolutely superior to all other wire for flooring and well worth the added expense. I use it even for grow outs because it doesn't sag.

 

[Miss M]

... The 14g wire makes a big difference.

I can't agree more!!! 14g after welding is absolutely superior to all other wire for flooring and well worth the added expense. I use it even for grow outs because it doesn't sag.

YES. My 14g GAW floors are awesome! The 16g I had sagged badly. I have one cage with it, because I couldn't get 14g locally and I needed a cage RIGHT NOW. :roll: I'll be replacing it.