Pictures of Nest Tunnels in Colony

[MaggieJ]

A couple of people have asked for pictures of the nest tunnels we use in the colony, so MidnightCoder took a few shots today while we were doing some chores.

A picture of the colony, divided into two 8 foot by 4 foot floor pens. The two centre black grills swing out, leaving a white step-over barrier to prevent jail-breaks. The wooden structure is a double nest tunnel with doors at opposite ends. One tunnel is in each pen with the divider running right over it.


Same view, with the adult rabbits in the picture. Jasper, our buck, left foreground. Sage, chinchilla-grey doe on top of nest tunnel on left side. Alice, black and white doe, on right nest tunnel with her daughter, born December 16.


Alice's litter of four born February 21, inside the nest tunnel. The lids are hinged for easy access.


Same view, with big sister visiting. All the rabbits pop in and out of the nest tunnels and no one seems to mind.

 

[ladysown]

nice to see maggie.

 

[Rabbitman]

I love the idea looks very comfortable.

 

[MaggieJ]

We have found that we cannot have our buck, Jasper, in with a doe that is kindling. He is so eager to get her rebred that he interrupts the birthing and we were losing kits. The idea now is that he stays with one doe for about 3 weeks and then goes next door for the next 3 weeks. This will also space the litters out a bit more and help the does to maintain condition. Most of the time, Jasper is a gentlemanly buck but he finds kindling does irresistable. He is sweet with the kits when he is not being a sex maniac :roll: and they love to cuddle up with him when they come out to play.

 

[Anntann]

I've been finding that removing Peter when the does are about to kindle, and then putting him back in a couple of weeks later works out really really well. Actually, we're moving him between the does. He gets to live with a doe right up until she kindles, and then he goes to live with the doe who kindled a month ago...just as the kits start to make their presence known to the outside world

At first he was startled by the kits, but now it's old hat and they sleep up against him, he'll often groom them and lay down while they groom his ears and face. I've never seen him aggressive with any of them. (so far)

 

[OneAcreFarm]

Wow, super nice colony setup!

 

[home*sweet*home]

Here is the old chicken coop we converted. It has an attached run and the whole thing rolls around.

 

[kotapony]

Maggie, have you ever posted basic dimensions of your next boxes? I searched but couldn't find them if you had. I'm really hopeful to get my colony set up and running within the next week or so, which means I need to get moving on building some nest boxes. I like the design of yours and was hoping you wouldn't mind if I copied it.

Rather than go with a double, I plan to go with two singles. It looks like you have one door on the long side, and another on the opposite end? I see different dimensions recommended for large breeds (mine are californians), but they run right around 20" long x 11" wide x 12" high. Are your tunnels longer than that to make them more tunnel like, or is the 20" about right? About how big are the entrances and how high a lip do you leave? Do yours have a floor?

I drive my husband crazy pestering for details of exactly how to do something when he asks me to do it. I was really hoping to have everything done and set up by now, but my husband's been pretty sick most of the summer and it's put me behind a little bit. But he seems to finally be on the mend, and God willing we'll finally be able to get back to normal. So I'm back to plotting and planning and driving myself crazy wanting to get moving on this. We're in for a wet week so I should be able to get a little bit of time in the wood shop to get something built. Even if I can't get the actual colony set up this week, at least I'll feel like I still made some progress if I can get the nest boxes ready.

 

[MaggieJ]

Katie, my nest tunnels are recycled from a community nest box unit that I used to use for my hens, so they are not standard. I agree two singles is a lot better than a double. The boxes are about 36 inches long and the width and height is about 15 inches each. The tops are hinged for easy access. To give the does more privacy, we cut the doorways at opposite ends, which will not be an issue with singles tunnels. There is not much of a lip at the entrance, just about the width of a 2x4. The does block the entrances with hay when the kits are tiny. There is no bottom to the boxes; they just sit on the floor of the rabbitry, which is wood. A really cool design would have a floor that slopes to the back slightly so wandering kits are directed back to the nest. This could also be achieved by putting a block under the open end of the tunnel to tilt it back. The rabbits love to lounge on top of the nest boxes and when there are youngsters it is not uncommon to see the whole rooftop covered with bunnies. Hope this is helpful, but please ask questions if I didn't cover something.

 

[Pickles]

Very nice colony set-up, MaggieJ!

 

[kotapony]

Ooooh, so the pictures actually show 4 nest boxes total in the form of two doubles? That makes sense. I first thought you meant the picture showed one big structure with the divider running the same way as your colony divider. That's why I was confused about the two entrances - I thought they went to the same nest area.

Thanks for the extra info. I'm planning to sketch out final plans tonight and try to pick up lumber tomorrow. I don't think I have quite enough scrap lying around. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 

[MaggieJ]

Sorry, I guess I didn't explain clearly. It is a two-nest unit divided the same way as the colony itself. The nest tunnel on the right opens at the opposite end so that the does don't feel they are near each other when they go into their nests. Originally it was a single colony, but we divided it because of the problems with the buck trying to rebreed the does during kindling.

A single nest tunnel is quite easy to construct since none of these considerations apply. It's really just a long narrow box with an entrance at one end and a hinged or detachable lid. Mine are likely a bit bigger than they need to be, but as I said I was modifying an existing structure.

 

[kotapony]

Okay, I think I really do get it this time. Thanks!

 

[Mac_]

Maggie, thanks! The pictures help a lot.

So you have 2 does in each 4' x 8' section, with bascially 2 nest tunnels in each section, right?

How do you manage the urine and manure? Is the hay bedding or feed, or a combination? Do you use the manure in the garden?

I was thinking of building a 10 x 12 shed on skids, and if I adapted your layout, I could have a 2' wide door on a 10' end, with an 8' x 2' aisle. A 4x8 on either side, and one on the far end (which would be 4x10).

 

[MaggieJ]

So you have 2 does in each 4' x 8' section, with bascially 2 nest tunnels in each section, right?

The population varies. I think at that point I had only one doe in the left section and two (one was a replacement doe I was growing out) in the other. We just took down the partition yesterday, since the buck we have now does not bother the does while they are kindling. There are four does in there right now, but two are going to camp. They just are not good breeders. Our matriarch, Alice, the black and doe, is no longer producing but she has pet status and will stay. That will leave only one producing doe, but I will be growing out a couple of young ones as potential breeders. There are only two nest tunnels but I can always add another if we need it. The rabbits love lounging on top of them.

How do you manage the urine and manure? Is the hay bedding or feed, or a combination? Do you use the manure in the garden?

The rabbits are on deep litter. We shovel the whole thing out when it gets too deep and start again. I put down a bale of pine shavings and the uneaten hay stems add to it. Ammonia smells are minimal. My rabbits do not drink much (they are one an alfalfa hay/greens/grain diet with a trace mineral salt block available) so the litter absorbs the urine very well. I've been having problems finding a hay rack that I like, so I just put the hay on the floor, well away from their potty area. What they don't eat (mostly stems) gets scattered and adds to the litter. When we shovel out, it all goes on the garden. It makes excellent mulch.

I was thinking of building a 10 x 12 shed on skids, and if I adapted your layout, I could have a 2' wide door on a 10' end, with an 8' x 2' aisle. A 4x8 on either side, and one on the far end (which would be 4x10).

That sounds like a good plan. You will be able to feed and water from the aisle, which is convenient. You might want to consider removable panels between the pens so you can combine the areas if desired. Gives you more flexibility. When you say the shed will be on skids, are you thinking of making it portable? What would the floor be made of?

 

[Mac_]

I like the idea of 1/2" x 1/2" hardware cloth in the rabbit areas, but have read that having solid flooring is considered more humane. Maybe hardware cloth in the whole rabbit area with pieces of plywood covering about 2/3 of each 4' x 4' area? Do you think the rabbits would use the non-plywood area for poop/pee?

 

[3mina]

If you use hardware cloth make to get the smooth side up so it's easier on the rabbits feet

 

[SarahMelisse]

I like the opening top. Good thinkin'!

 

[MaggieJ]

Hardware cloth will not allow the "bunny berries" to fall through. If you want wire, use 14 gauge 1/2" x 1" welded wire. You might consider litter box training them. A rectangular plastic dishpan with some shavings in it works well. I had rabbits in my front porch the first winter and the litter boxes worked quite well. They didn't always use them, but it certainly reduced the amount of mess.

 

[ollitos]

Do you have a problem with the buck continuously trying to rebreed the doe while she is pregnant?