Nest Boxes

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Wesley

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So I am going to build nest boxes tomorrow. So should I use a wire botton or solid? Should I include a partial top or just leave it open. I am think that the wire bottom would really help to keep things clean but I just read an article from MSU(Mississippi)that said not to use the wire bottom. All is well with my rabbits. I have two litters nearing harvest age and three litters I hope on the way within the next few weeks. Thanks for the help!
 
I used to use pegboard on the bottom of my nestboxes, kept everything nicely dry and no accidents when moving them
 
I have wire bottoms on mine and add a layers of cardboard if needed for insulation, etc. I've had no issues with the wire bottoms to date.
 
I use an all wood box as I have had issue with a little one losing a leg or two when they runt around in the hay and find a bare spot and then all it takes is momma to bump into the nest box just a little too much and hello tripod the bunny. Not exactly ideal type for show rabbits, but they still make nice meat rabbits most of the time. This has only happened twice ever but it was enough to keep me from using them. As far as cleanliness of the box goes I only keep mine in around three weeks and if you have a thick enough layer of pine wood chips and straw on top it will normally stay clean enough until time to take it out.
 
I tried the wire bottoms during the summer heat, and I have had some near misses with moving the box and getting a foot stuck. I like the idea because I have a doe that nurses for 10-15 minutes, and she soils the box. still I will replace all of the wire bottoms with pegboard this winter and leave it that way.
 
We cut sheets of PolyWall and drilled holes in it for drainage. It was left over from doing the processing area, so I figured it could go to good use! It works well and is easy to clean.
 
Thanks for the ideas! I have 2 metal nest boxes with no bottoms and need to think of something before the 20th when I have 2 does due.
 
Thanks for all the helpful info! You guys are great! If you use the smallest hardware cloth can there feet still get stuck? We have a comercial grower in the area and he swears by wire bottoms. If I use a card board cutout to cover the bottom everytime will that not help the cold weather problem and protect their feet as well?<br /><br />__________ Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:52 am __________<br /><br />I am thinking three layers in each box: one of cardboard, then shavings, and straw. Are pine shavings safe to use?
 
I have all wire open topped nests, as well as metal 1/2 top nests. I always line the bottoms and sides of the wire ones with cardboard, but I also have a 4' x 8' sheet of plastic that is used to make lens covers for fluorescent light fixture boxes that I have been cutting to size to fit instead. The rabbits tend to shred the cardboard, and the plastic is a reusable liner. I have not drilled holes in the plastic liners, since I have never had a doe soil the nest. (Knock on wood!)

If you use the 1/4" hardware cloth you probably wouldn't need the cardboard because the bedding wouldn't fall out. The whole idea behind having a wire bottom is for drainage, and lining them with cardboard or plastic foils that feature.

If you decide to go with a solid bottom, I would cut plastic to fit because it is not porous like wood, and can be sanitized. Another option is to use polyurethane to seal the wood. Some people use sealed pegboard which has drainage holes.

I use pine shavings and brown paper grocery bags that I put through our shredder as nesting material, plus I put a handful of pelleted pine at the end where the nest is usually made. The does get to add their own hay or straw.

One feature that I really like that the wire nests have is that the front is hinged and held closed with a spring. When the kits begin leaving the nest, the front can be opened so they can easily go in and out. I would recommend hinging one end of your box. As for a 1/2 top, I did have one doe that seemed to think she was nursing her kits when she sat on top of her metal box. The kits were thin until I switched them to an open topped wire nest.
 
Pine shavings are usually the easiest to get. I let mine air a bit til the scent isn't too strong before I use them. I just open the top of the bale a couple of days before I need it
 
When my rabbits were in cages, I used wooden nest boxes with hardware cloth on the floor. In summer, this gives better ventilation and helps keep the bedding dry. In winter, I put a piece of cardboard under the wire for insulation. That way it didn't get shredded. I really like a hood on the nest box. Usually the doe puts the kits there (the most protected spot) and the hood helps to prevent the kits being stepped on when the doe hops in.
 
MaggieJ":1y4yjow7 said:
I put a piece of cardboard under the wire for insulation.

I recently figured that out! :slap: I zip tied it to the bottom so I could still lift the box out without losing the bedding. But it doesn't help with the sides- the doe just ripped them off of the outside.
 
I use the Bass Universal Sani-Nest which is all wire, and the waxed cardboard liners.

The commercial operation I just visited to pick up NZW's uses all-wire 'subterranean' nests (dropped below the wire cage floor) and puts a piece of plastic with holes in the bottom of the nest.

-Wendy
 
On the subject of nestboxs one thing I do like to do with mine is since they are all wood is nail two 6 common nails through the bottom of the box as close as possible and then when I sit the box in my cage the nails go through the bottom of thecage floor not allowing the doe to move the box. I lost a kit once that got wedged behind the box between the back of the cage and could not get out. It was when the little ones were first making it out of the nestbox at a little over 2 weeks. This has helped keep me from losing any more this way although I will add it only happened once over about 2 years of breeding but now I don't have to worry about it.
 
We are new to rabbits and have only had two litters. We used 1/4" hardware cloth as the bottoms of our wooden nestboxes and it has worked wonderfully. The nest boxes stay nice and dry, even when we had a litter of twelve kits. We're in an area that only goes below freezing during the coldest part of winter, and I think with enough hay I wouldn't worry about the warmth issue -- there was always a nice layer between the babies and the wire. And still their urine drained nicely. If we had babies in the dead of winter and a real cold snap I'd possibly place some cardboard under the box.
 
A&BRabbitry":3qrwouu2 said:
On the subject of nestboxs one thing I do like to do with mine is since they are all wood is nail two 6 common nails through the bottom of the box as close as possible and then when I sit the box in my cage the nails go through the bottom of thecage floor not allowing the doe to move the box. I lost a kit once that got wedged behind the box between the back of the cage and could not get out. It was when the little ones were first making it out of the nestbox at a little over 2 weeks. This has helped keep me from losing any more this way although I will add it only happened once over about 2 years of breeding but now I don't have to worry about it.

That's a good idea that I'm going to put to use. Thanks
 

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