Need to buy or build cages for my new rexes, advice?

Rabbit Talk  Forum

Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bigbrologan

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
245
Reaction score
0
Location
Everett, Washington
I am getting either 2 or 3 new Rexes, and I need advice on how to build or which major corporation in the rabbit business is the best to buy from. Also, what sizes would be best for a Standard Rex? Questions or comments? And of course, advice?


Thanks,
Logan
 
Where do you keep them - in a shed, or outdoors? Makes a difference. :)

My standard cages are 6' long, 24" deep and, I think, 15" or 18" high - divided into two "holes". Those work well for the breeding does (Harlequins, NZ). I think standard Rexes are about the same size? Bottom wire is 1"x1/2" and the sides and top are 1"x1" - some have "baby-saver" wire on the sides. My rabbits are in an enclosed shed and the cages are either hung from the ceiling or resting on racks.
 
Mine will be in a run-down barn, like a shed.<br /><br />__________ Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:06 am __________<br /><br />And just to clarify, a hole is like the amount of cages or compartments right?
 
And just to clarify, a hole is like the amount of cages or compartments right?

Correct. :) So, one cage divided into two has two holes.

If your rabbits are in a building, wire cages are probably the easiest and cheapest to build (although after you've scratched yourself on the wire for the umpteenth time, you might not think so!) and certainly the easiest to keep clean and sanitized.
 
I don't really know what's available where you are. I would recommend that you don't skimp on the thickness of the wire. I believe 14 or 16 gauge galvanised is pretty standard - any lighter than that, and you end up with saggy cages. I have some that were built with light wire (not by me!) and they are 8' long and the doors don't open properly because of the sag. I need to get some reinforcing rod or a strip of wood or something to straighten them up.

1"x1/2" is definitely required for the floor. When you build the cages, put it so that the 1/2" side is "up" - smoother for the rabbits.
 
Oh, and C-rings (or "hog rings") are better than J-clips for putting things together. Easier to take apart when necessary, too. :roll:
 
Remember to check if the wire is galvanized pre or post welding. It is better if it is dipped after welding so that the welds are covered with the galvanizing too. It is a tiny bit more expensive but worth it for longevity. At least for sure on bottom wire where it is exposed to urine. Be sure to get the snazzy little tool for doing the clippies. Wow it is so handy and makes it quick.
We also got a blade for a rotary cutter so we did not have to cut each wire one at a time. It gets pretty hard on your hands after several many cages one little snip at a time. The rotary blade just was heavenly for old overused hands.
Good luck and if you have the space-make them large- it's so much nicer for the rabbit....think in terms of being locked in the bathroom for the rest of your life while you are building.
B~

Just to see all the kinds of wire available- check klubertanz online. You can learn alot just reading the catalog.
 
Do you have a Tractor Supply Company near you? That's where I get my cage wire--much cheaper than paying the shipping for mail-order. 1"x2" for the sides and top, and 1/2"x1" for the floor. I got the J-clips and the J-clip pliers from Bass. I make my own doors from 1"x2" wire, and use the finger-loop spring latches from Bass. I have resting boards from Bass for my Cals, but my 'Zils, being lighter and not prone to sore hocks, don't need them. If you are going to use dropping pans, check to see what sizes are available before you make your cages. The standard sizes seem to be 24"x24", 30"x30", and 30"x36", but I've been having a hard time finding the 30"x30". TSC carries them, but mine seems to be constantly out of them. I may have to order some from Bass.
 
trinityoaks":2pjyirjl said:
Do you have a Tractor Supply Company near you? That's where I get my cage wire--much cheaper than paying the shipping for mail-order. 1"x2" for the sides and top, and 1/2"x1" for the floor. I got the J-clips and the J-clip pliers from Bass. I make my own doors from 1"x2" wire, and use the finger-loop spring latches from Bass. I have resting boards from Bass for my Cals, but my 'Zils, being lighter and not prone to sore hocks, don't need them. If you are going to use dropping pans, check to see what sizes are available before you make your cages. The standard sizes seem to be 24"x24", 30"x30", and 30"x36", but I've been having a hard time finding the 30"x30". TSC carries them, but mine seems to be constantly out of them. I may have to order some from Bass.

The only thing TSC carries up here is hardware cloth. :? And chicken wire.
 
Half Caper Farm":3iuqbhum said:
The only thing TSC carries up here is hardware cloth. :? And chicken wire.
Mine will order stuff in for me if it's in their online catalog (and the cage wire is).
 
Do not buy the Havahart cages from TSC, they are poor quality that will rust thru quickly and are flimsy, don't waste your money. Best cages that I have I bought used, hit Craigslist or any local classifieds publication, I've also bought cages and carriers at farm/consignment auctions. Klubertanz has really good wire if you decide to build your own. All of my doe cages are 30x36, feel thats a good size. Granted I only have small breeds now but I like to give them room.
 
I buy my wire from a farm supply store a few miles away-- last week, I got a 100 foot roll of 36 inch 1/2" x 1" wire for 50 cents a sq foot ( I ALWAYS figure the sq foot cost) TSC is a very expensive way to buy wire if you have a decent farm supply store nearby. NEVER use hardware cloth-- it is not welded at the joints-- the galvanizing is what holds it together.
Also, while galvanized AFTER welding may look prettier, longer, galvanizing BEFORE welding makes for a stronger, longer lasting joint. Galvanizing is actually a way of adding a surface that can sacrifice itself in order for the final product to last longer. My brother makes his living dealing with metals--I don't think he is aware that sometimes, I do learn things from him :D

Terry
 
Frosted Rabbits":13o5vn3m said:
TSC is a very expensive way to buy wire if you have a decent farm supply store nearby.
Hmmmm. . . I'll have to check the feed stores around here, but I don't think any of them carry cage wire--just the Havahart kits. :roll:

I recently saw someone talking about using hardware cloth for the TOP (only) of the cage as a way to cut costs. What do you think of that for cages that are in a barn or other solid enclosure?
 
If nothing is going to be set on top of the cages, then hardware cloth should do just fine-- especially if there is absolutely no way that a large, strong predator will get at the cages. Hardware cloth can serve as an inexpensive way to install babysaver on a cage that is already built. Do not expect hardware cloth to serve as a good anchor/attachment point if you hang your cages.

One thing about mixing wire types/sizes when building cages--it can get VERY confusing when it comes time to cut wire and build the cages!! Unless you have everything planned out to the last inch, including which way the wire 'runs', you can find yourself wasting wire.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top