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KelleyBee

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So, I am looking for a buck to replace the underweight buck I received in my first trio. He's only 6 pounds at 24 months (was 18 months when I got him) and should be weighing no less than 9-12 pounds for the male of his breed. I have found a buck in the breed I need from a different breeder, but this breeder keeps their grow-outs in tractors on the ground. The buck I'm being offered is one who has been on the ground for most of it's life (it is now 18 weeks). Frankly, I have no problem with grow-outs on the ground. In my mind, grow-outs are temporary residents destined for freezer camp. In my way of thinking, if a buck or doe is worth keeping for use in your herd as a breeder or to sell to another breeder or even as a pet, it shouldn't be on the ground. Yes?

I keep all of my breeders in cages off the ground due to fleas, ticks, worms, viruses, bacteria and whatever else may end up plaguing a rabbit. In my mind, breeder rabbits are long-term residents whom I am investing heavily in because I am depending upon them for food production, etc. I would only tractor rabbits whom, for one reason or another, are destined for food and they would never be returned to my breeder stock. Yet, I am told this tractored litter is returned to their doe mom's cage each night, to date.

Am I being overly cautious or protective of my herd? I was so excited to have found a buck of the breed I need and the correct color. But I am afraid to add this buck to my herd because I am concerned what pests, parasites, viruses or otherwise, it might have contracted living so many weeks on the ground.

I look forward to hearing from you, regardless of your point of view because I am open to learning and to the possibility that I am being too concerned.

Thanks!

Kelley
 
Wow, those are things that I never considered with my rabbits. I frequently let my breeders "out to play" in tractors and even running around the yard. Perhaps I've been lucky with no issues you've listed as concerns...but now you've got me wondering if I should be more cautious.

People have successfully raised their rabbits in colonies countless times on this and other forums, too. I would be more concerned if there's a higher infection rate of certain diseases or parasites. Depending on your location, the winter weather may even in your favor here and killing off anything in the soil.

I'd be curious on other thoughts here, too. Any new rabbit here gets a month quarantine. I would suggest the same, regardless of if it was raised on the ground, in cages, etc.
 
So, I am looking for a buck to replace the underweight buck I received in my first trio. He's only 6 pounds at 24 months (was 18 months when I got him) and should be weighing no less than 9-12 pounds for the male of his breed. I have found a buck in the breed I need from a different breeder, but this breeder keeps their grow-outs in tractors on the ground. The buck I'm being offered is one who has been on the ground for most of it's life (it is now 18 weeks). Frankly, I have no problem with grow-outs on the ground. In my mind, grow-outs are temporary residents destined for freezer camp. In my way of thinking, if a buck or doe is worth keeping for use in your herd as a breeder or to sell to another breeder or even as a pet, it shouldn't be on the ground. Yes?

I keep all of my breeders in cages off the ground due to fleas, ticks, worms, viruses, bacteria and whatever else may end up plaguing a rabbit. In my mind, breeder rabbits are long-term residents whom I am investing heavily in because I am depending upon them for food production, etc. I would only tractor rabbits whom, for one reason or another, are destined for food and they would never be returned to my breeder stock. Yet, I am told this tractored litter is returned to their doe mom's cage each night, to date.

Am I being overly cautious or protective of my herd? I was so excited to have found a buck of the breed I need and the correct color. But I am afraid to add this buck to my herd because I am concerned what pests, parasites, viruses or otherwise, it might have contracted living so many weeks on the ground.

I look forward to hearing from you, regardless of your point of view because I am open to learning and to the possibility that I am being too concerned.

Thanks!

Kelley

I have a similar perspective to yours about breeders vs fryers on the ground. Just because I like to be careful! I don't know what the risks are for rabbits on the ground in your area, but if it was me, I would try to find a buck that has not been on the ground. Even if I have to keep using the small one for a while, because I would still be getting kits. I know Silver Fox can be difficult to find in certain areas, though, so I suppose you may need to weigh the potential risks with the potential benefits of getting him. Would he make a really good difference in your herd with his genetics? Do you have a suitable area to quarantine him, or would he have to go immediately with the others? Is he inexpensive and worth a try (especially if you decide you have to cull him later?). That seems a little old for him to still be in with the mom. I wonder what their breeding practices are and if the mom has had another litter yet. Would their line of rabbits be up for the amount of breeding you intend to do with them? Is RHDV2 affecting your area much?

Just sharing some thoughts!
 
I wouldn't hesitate to buy, but I might consider a quarantine for a few weeks and a premptive course of your favorite anti parasitic, as recommended by a local to you vet or knowledgeable breeder.

Probably I would not worry AT ALL if I was able to inspect the breeder's herd and they were universally healthy, clean, and well cared for. Some breeders are professional, some are borderline animal hoarders. You get a real feel for which you are dealing with when you see their set up. I find that generally care carries thru.

To be clear, I will and have bought from the sort of breeder that's rough around the edges. However, then I assume responsibility for assuring the animal's health myself. I assume that will potentially incur additional costs and factor that into my offer.
 
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I am with you; I quarantine for 30 + days regardless of where they came from. Just a precaution about introducing any new critter into my herd. If they come through that 30-day quarantine period without issues, I believe it should be ok if this rabbit is something you really want/need in your program. I also wonder about the growouts being taken back to mom nightly......maybe cage space issues, but at 18 weeks he could already be sexually active.
 
I have a similar perspective to yours about breeders vs fryers on the ground. Just because I like to be careful! I don't know what the risks are for rabbits on the ground in your area, but if it was me, I would try to find a buck that has not been on the ground. Even if I have to keep using the small one for a while, because I would still be getting kits. I know Silver Fox can be difficult to find in certain areas, though, so I suppose you may need to weigh the potential risks with the potential benefits of getting him. Would he make a really good difference in your herd with his genetics? Do you have a suitable area to quarantine him, or would he have to go immediately with the others? Is he inexpensive and worth a try (especially if you decide you have to cull him later?). That seems a little old for him to still be in with the mom. I wonder what their breeding practices are and if the mom has had another litter yet. Would their line of rabbits be up for the amount of breeding you intend to do with them? Is RHDV2 affecting your area much?

Just sharing some thoughts!
If I take him, my best quarantine option for now will be in the grow-out hutch, so not risky for my breeders, who have a separate hutch. I need a new bloodline introduced because the trio I have are all siblings and if I want to try to develop a herd to breed standards, having all siblings is not going to work at best, could be detrimental at worst. As for RHDV2, it hasn't reached our state just yet. But, we have Lyme Disease, so that's a concern for rabbits on the ground, and whatever else I am likely unaware of, such as intestinal parasites, and then there's always Tularemic which can transfer to humans.
 
I understand your caution, I would have the same reservations.

My suggestion: ask a lot of questions. Do they see coccidia in the liver of their bunnies, do they ever have unexplained deaths... or even explained deaths. Do they regularly deworm or treat their herd for internal parasites? Does bloat ever pop up in their weanlings, have adults go off feed for no reason, lose kits first put out in the tractors?

If the answers satisfy you... I would purchase and then isolate for no less than four weeks. During that four weeks I would find ways to mildly stress bunny. Take him on car rides, bring him in the house, feed him late one day, let water run short (except in the heat), etc. And then see how he responds to all that.

Mind... whenever I have rabbits in isolation I find ways to mildly stress them. I want to know if they have a compromised system before I add them to my herd. I'd rather lose one rabbit... than my herd. :)
 
Those are some great questions. Thanks, still learning here. I'd say you're instincts are correct.
Do you plan on breeding anymore soon ? If you could find a 8 week old kit you're almost there with a buck at 6 months.
I like to try to start with the best I can get. It takes years to develop your stock.
We adopted a drop off just after Easter. Our daughter trapped it. We isolated her for a month. I had no idea of her age and know believe she was young. She had trouble with her first litter and I was considering culling her. She is very shy n skidish. Kinda like a loner. But her last litter was 10 kits that she did great with.
The most surprising fact was that when our daughter butchered the last batch yesterday. The kits from Yeetka were the biggest in batch. Although she weighs near 6 pounds. Not nearly as big as our New Zealand does. And they were also the most dominant ones in the pens. Literally kicking the others butts. So they were the largest.
Appears that their aggressive behavior may have given them an edge. The biggest difference being that Yeetka was free range for a while n had to learn to get tough or eaten.
Also may consider that you will be bringing the doe to the buck to breed. Not a lot of contact but can get aggressive with the buck biting or scratching your doe causing infection.
Risk assessment. Didn't mean to take your thread over but you asked some great questions. Good luck
 
Those are some great questions. Thanks, still learning here. I'd say you're instincts are correct.
Do you plan on breeding anymore soon ? If you could find a 8 week old kit you're almost there with a buck at 6 months.
I like to try to start with the best I can get. It takes years to develop your stock.
We adopted a drop off just after Easter. Our daughter trapped it. We isolated her for a month. I had no idea of her age and know believe she was young. She had trouble with her first litter and I was considering culling her. She is very shy n skidish. Kinda like a loner. But her last litter was 10 kits that she did great with.
The most surprising fact was that when our daughter butchered the last batch yesterday. The kits from Yeetka were the biggest in batch. Although she weighs near 6 pounds. Not nearly as big as our New Zealand does. And they were also the most dominant ones in the pens. Literally kicking the others butts. So they were the largest.
Appears that their aggressive behavior may have given them an edge. The biggest difference being that Yeetka was free range for a while n had to learn to get tough or eaten.
Also may consider that you will be bringing the doe to the buck to breed. Not a lot of contact but can get aggressive with the buck biting or scratching your doe causing infection.
Risk assessment. Didn't mean to take your thread over but you asked some great questions. Good luck
I think you are spot on. I am now trying to find a buck from a different source.
 

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