My idea for hanging cages / frame

[rittert3]

This is my possible concept for expanding this fall.

and from the bottom

For 2 frames (1 8' and 1 9') including cages, feeders, and waterers. it will run me about $850 but will be another 14 holes.
4 2'x2', 8 2'x30" ,and 2 2'x3' holes. I will use the 2x3 for maternity pens, the 2x2 for bucks and juniors that I'm saving, and the 2'x30" will be for dry does and weaning pens (6-10 weeks). I'm going to make them so they are built in 2 hole sections except the 3' pens and I will beable to unhook them to burn and disinfect.<br /><br />__________ Wed May 23, 2012 3:37 pm __________<br /><br />Any input?

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Why so short? If you make a taller structure, you could have two tiers. You would need dropping boards though, which adds a bit of daily labor.

 

[MaggieJ]

Whether you have one tier or two, I think you should make it taller. So much easier on the back! Maybe make it for one tier at the moment, but planned so that a lower tier could be added at a future date. You know you're going to need it!

 

[rittert3]

I'm doing 1 tier because I'm putting worm bins under them also it will be just over 4' tall at the edges and I'm only 5'5", for me it's easier and more comfortable to have the rabbits between waist and chest high when I scoop them up. If I ever get to where I can have a building I'm going to splurge for some of the BASS 3 tiers. These are all just to satisfy the property owner and give me some more space to work with my line. I would rather have the all metal frames inside, but she thinks the rabbits need to get sunlight :? from what I've learned they react alot better to floresant. Love how she trys to tell me how to raise my livestock.

 

[MaggieJ]

Tell her that indirect light is a lot safer for domestic rabbits. Too much sunshine can be a death sentence in summer. Don't let her bully you into doing something that is not in the rabbits best interests.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

You want the door opening at a height that will allow you to extend your arm directly into the cage when your arm is extended straight out in front of you. Basically, the middle of the door opening should be even with your shoulder.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

You want the door opening at a height that will allow you to extend your arm directly into the cage when your arm is extended straight out in front of you. Basically, the middle of the door opening should be even with your shoulder.

I'm going to have to start calling you "Ergonomic OAF"! What a clever sister I have... always thinking!

 

[OneAcreFarm]

You want the door opening at a height that will allow you to extend your arm directly into the cage when your arm is extended straight out in front of you. Basically, the middle of the door opening should be even with your shoulder.

I'm going to have to start calling you "Ergonomic OAF"! What a clever sister I have... always thinking!

Only when it is my turn to use the brain.... :mrgreen:

 

[rittert3]

Tell her that indirect light is a lot safer for domestic rabbits. Too much sunshine can be a death sentence in summer. Don't let her bully you into doing something that is not in the rabbits best interests.

I have "free" rent, electric, and water (I do chores and farm sit in exchange) but she dosn't want me to use the shop light in the building they let me partially use and she's an old fashion know it all. Lol, she was sneaking into my hutch to play with babies but she's allergic so kind of gave her self a lesson. The point is I kind of need to find a new property to keep them and a way to move the "tazmanian devil" hutch.

 

[SatinsRule]

I'd set the top of the structure somewhere around 5 feet high. That would put the top of your cages at 4.5 feet high and would still be easy for you to manage at your height. But that is just me.

And I totally agree with restricting them from direct sunlight. When the mercury tops 100 degrees in the summer in KS, your rabbits will appreciate the thoughtfulness which went into the design and setup. The sun normally rises in the east and sets in the west. For that reason, I'd set the openings either north or south. They'll still get plenty of light, but will not be subjected to direct sunlight and as a result, will remain a bit cooler.

 

[rittert3]

I think these structure would allow for seasonal rotation to block the wind and snow from the north in the winter and thesun from the east and west in the summer. I can also add tarps to the open sides if needed, but after losing my buck I'm not real fond of tarps. The one I had shading him acted like a parashoot and pulled his cage over.

 

[SatinsRule]

Yeah, I can see where an attached tarp on a structure in Kansas could be a problem with all the winds they have in that region of the country from time to time.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I like the idea of being able to rotate their orientation depending on the seasons.

Even without a tarp, the roof itself could catch the wind and flip a free standing structure. I would make the corner posts sturdy enough to attach large eye bolts so you can attach cable or rope to them and use ground anchors. The type used as dog tie-outs that screw into the ground might work if you screwed them into the earth at an angle toward the posts.

 

[rittert3]

Good idea Mama, I have some heavy 18" rebar trapers steaks with wash welded on to form a head. The 2x4 should bebale to take an eye screw big enough to thread those through!

 

[SatinsRule]

Another thing you might consider using to secure the frames would be the spike fence posts which cattle farmers use as intermediate posts on fencing. They will ultimately go farther into the ground and not pull up as readily.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Another thing you might consider using to secure the frames would be the spike fence posts which cattle farmers use as intermediate posts on fencing.

T-posts? Or something else?

 

[SatinsRule]

Another thing you might consider using to secure the frames would be the spike fence posts which cattle farmers use as intermediate posts on fencing.

T-posts? Or something else?

That's probably what I'm referring to. They're normally painted green and have a tapered plate welded on near the bottom.

 

[Cindi Davis]

Im using the T Posts for hanging cages and love it !!!!!!! I can have 3 stacks instead of 2, Plus my big cage for my new flemish boy which is 2 1/2 ft by 5 ft with a nice grate underneath for weight is hung on the T post, VERY STURDY !!!!

 

[SatinsRule]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_92070-46379-TP1 ... facetInfo=

 

[rittert3]

Like T-posts, satins?