Yes I am getting NZW's, hopefully today!! I have 4 eye screws with s hooks connected to chain per cage that I hung them with. I have since put more on the bottom cage as well. The 2 top cages are 2x3x2, and the bottom on is 2x4x2. The door for the bottom cage should be big enough to handle the nest boxes and a stubborn rabbit, but the thing is that I may now intend to split that cage between the 2 does. That being said, I can't have the door where it's at. For the top two cages, they are only 11x? doors on them, so I may have to redo one of them for a doe if I don't split the bottom cage.Marinea":1iq4pmib said:Are you still planning on meat rabbits? What are you hanging the cages with? And how many hangers per cage?
It's hard to tell scale from the pic- what are the cage sizes, and what are the sizes of those cage doors? The doors look a bit small to me. Learned that lesson very quickly. My doors range from 12" square to 14x16". Trying to get an uncooperative rabbit or a nestbox in and out of a small door is not fun.
Are you going to have hay racks?
I did in fact close the s hooks on the chains, and one on the bottom of my finger too, ouch!! I went out and measured my top doors, and they are kind of small. One is 11x8, and the other one is 11x11, so I'll have to make them a little bigger.Marinea":idbd7dim said:Those are good sized cages, and I like the set up. I am not sure I would divide the bigger cage- 2x2' seems kind of small to me for a NZ.
You might want to consider, how do I explain this, closing the s hook around the chain. I know my buns can get "bouncy" and I would hate to see them bounce the chain off the hook.
How are you going to handle waste? I think I read you were interested in slant boards, but didn't really like the wavy panels? We have a couple of cages with slant boards using flashing- it's flat and works well.
And...YAY for getting buns! Can't wait to see pics once everything is in place.
Yeah, I'll have to work that out somehow. At the moment, the guy I'm getting the buns from doesn't have any bucks ready yet, so I will just get 2 does for now. By the time the bucks are ready, I should be able to get another cages built for him. I had a 90 gal aquarium that I sold, but the guy didn't want the stand, so I could put his cage on the stand away from the does.Syberchick70":1w9p8rlk said:I personally think those top cages are about the minimum size you might get away with. If you're planning to keep a buck next to a doe on top, he's likely to be spraying her all the time.Just my opinions though! I like to see bunnies have a good amount of space. Hope you do well with your setup.
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Thanks!! I'll see if I can find some around here. I'm not sure of any sign places around here yet though.Silver Cloud":1w9p8rlk said:Maybe you could get Coroplast (corrugated plastic) from a sign company, We paid 14$ for a 4'x8' sheet. It works rather well. It's also easy to score and bend.
I don't like using nails for that very reason!! I know it doesn't look like it, but the top cages are 6" up from the 2x4's, so I was thinking about putting my 2x4 scraps on top of the front for the angle. It would only be about 3 1/2 - 4" higher, so 2-2 1/2" below the cages. Would that work?MamaSheepdog":1w9p8rlk said:Looks good, Lereg!
You were wise to keep the cages a good distance from the wood supports.
I do see one major problem since you want to go with slant boards- you don't have much room between the tiers for it to slope. An easy fix (providing you used screws and not nails) would be to drop the rear rail a few inches, and shorten the chain support as necessary. You might also consider adding another inch or so to the front chains so the bottom cage drops a bit more to provide a steeper slope.
An inexpensive option for your dropping board might be some linoleum scrap that you could get from one of those bargain flooring dealers. It would probably need to be supported with a thin sheet of plywood though to give you a nice level and solid surface.
I would also recommend putting J-clips spaced at 2" for the floor wire. It will help prevent sagging.
Can't wait to see the cages with rabbits in them!![]()
lereg15":28z8g6nr said:It would only be about 3 1/2 - 4" higher, so 2-2 1/2" below the cages. Would that work?
lereg15":28z8g6nr said:I just found some metal wavy panels for $17 a piece, that are 2.33-ft x 12-ft!!
lereg15":28z8g6nr said:Silver Cloud wrote:Maybe you could get Coroplast (corrugated plastic) from a sign company, We paid 14$ for a 4'x8' sheet. It works rather well. It's also easy to score and bend.
Thanks!! I'll see if I can find some around here.
I found some of that coroplast at Lowes for $16, so I think I'll go with that. I do have one piece of it for the top section, so I just need one more for the bottom!Marinea":c1x3dgmj said:I totally get working on a budget. When you go to Lowe's, check the price of the mobile home skirting. It might be cheaper, and it works well for the slant boards as well. We have that on two of our cages now.
Oh, and I found a terrific device to scrape the panels- at an auto part store! They had ice cleaning stuff on sale, and I picked up a long handled tool with a scraper on one end and a brush on the other. It works really well for cleaning cages and boards.
J-clips, along with screws, are your friend. I agree with MSD- the more J-clips, the better to prevent sag. Not fun to do, but so worth it.
I'll have to look around for some guttering! The way I plan on doing it so far, I wouldn't need very much of it.Marinea":30lzbg4x said:I use roof guttering to direct the waste. It runs along the bottom of the slant board and is angled to one end, where I have a five gallon bucket to catch it.
For feeders/waterers, a good idea is to go to your local Dollar Store and find some bowls- glass, ceramic, whatever. Ramekins work really well. Cheap and simple. and no holes in the cage.