hoodat
Well-known member
This is the care sheet I give with every rabbit I sell as a pet. If you have any suggestions to improve it I would be glad to listen to them:
PROPER CARE OF RABBITS
When you first get your rabbit it may be shy till it learns it can trust you. There are several things you must do to gain that trust. The first two things are very important. Never make fast moves around rabbits. Their instinct is to run away from fast moves. Never handle a rabbit in a noisy atmosphere. They don't like loud noises. Once they trust you and others in your family they will tolerate more noise. Try not to come from above at first when picking them up. Their instincts will kick in and tell them something coming from above (like a hawk) is dangerous.
When first handling your rabbit wear long sleeves. Rabbits will not harm you intentionally but they have sharp claws and if they struggle to get loose you may get scratched pretty good. They do not claw but rake so it doesn't take heavy clothing to protect yourself against that.
Learn to hold your rabbit properly. It must be fully supported so it doesn't think it is in danger of falling. Fold one arm across your chest and hold a small rabbit nestled in the crevice between that arm and your body. It often helps to let it nestle its head between your upper arm and body. Hold the other hand over the rabbit to control it if it starts to try to get away. Stroke it gently with that hand and speak to it softly.
If it does try to get away don't fight to hang on. That's when you can get a good scratch. Just stoop down and let it go. It will probably calm right down once it sees you aren't trying to harm it. It helps to handle it over a carpet or soft furniture like a couch at first so it won't be harmed if it falls.
The best way to pick up a rabbit is to sort of scoop it up with both hands making sure its chest and rump are both supported. A new rabbit may not allow you to do this so learn to "scruf" it. That is picking it up by a fold of loose skin just behind the forequarters. That does it no harm and most rabbits will not fight when held that way for a short time. NEVER pick it up by the ears. They may look like handles but that hurts.
Have a good sized cage available before getting your rabbit. Many pet stores have second hand cages available at a cheaper price than new ones but be sure it is a rabbit cage and not one for another animal. Have a place in the cage where they can hide. Even a cardbard box on its side will do. If it is to be kept inside and allowed to run at times the cage need not be as big as one you will need if it is to be kept confined outdoors most of the time. Ask me about the right locations for outdoor cages. Rabbits cannot take a lot of heat so should never be in full sun.
Rabbits are very clean animals and are easier to litter train than most cats. You will notice that the rabbit will choose a "potty corner", usually a rear corner, where it will go whenever it has to relieve itself. Get a triangular litter box and put it in that corner. Most rabbits will immediately start using it.
The rabbit "berries" are almost dry and heve little or no odor. It is the urine that has the odor so have a pan under the cage which can be easily cleaned. Use absorbant material such as kitty itter to absorb the urine but never use kitty litter inside the cage.Rabbits will chew anything that gets their attention and some types of kitty kitter are not good for them when ingested.
If your rabbit is to be let run inside the house keep that "chew anything" in mind. Anything includes things like wooden furniture. It also includes electrical cords and if your bunny bites into one of those it can go to bunny heaven fast. It is best to confine it to one area that has been rabbit proofed.
FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
A good brand of 16% rabbit pellets is really all the food your rabbit needs but greens are good for their health also. Avoid the pellets that are advertised as containing "treats" those usually contain things like dried fruit and are fattening. A fat bunny is seldom a healthy bunny. A young growing rabbit can be given all the food it will eat but as it gets older you probably will have to limit the amount of food it gets. Your rabbit should have access to water at all times. The water bottles you buy in pet stores are fine and most rabbits are already familiar with them. If they aren't they will learn to use one in only a day or two. Rabbits are smart.
Ask if your rabbit is used to eating fresh greens. If it isn't used to them feed only small amounts at a time till their system gets used to them. Hay should also be available. If you feed timothy hay you can let the bunny have all it wants. Hay isn't fattening but supplies the roughage a rabbit needs to have. Greens such as grass and clover are good rabbit food. They love dandelions but be sure they don't come from a lawn that has been sprayed with insecticide.
Limit treats like fruit to occasionally. Too much can be fattening and cause diarrhea. A treat should be a treat, not an everyday thing. Bugs Bunny aside, the roots of carrots contain too much sugar to be good everyday food. The tops however are excellent and most rabbits prefer the tops to the roots anyway. Most bunnies like bread but never feed fresh bread to a rabbit. Soft bread balls up in their stomachs and can give them a belly ache. Hard bread is fine but should only be an occasional treat as it is fattening. Sweet baked goods like cake and doughnuts are a no- no.
SOCIALIZING YOUR RABBIT
Spend some time each day getting to know your rabbit. Hold it on your lap and stroke it and talk to it. In no time it will be coming to you wanting to be held. Children under 10 should never handle a rabbit unsupervised. They can harm it without meaning to. A rabbits back is easily broken if handled roughly.
You may be surprised how many tricks you can teach a rabbit. There are rabbit organizations that have competitions with rabbits running races, obstacle courses and jumping. It's amazing how high a rabbit can jump. You will see that the rabbits have as much fun at these events as the owners do.
If you run into trouble with your bunny ask for help. If it's necessay to take it to a vet be sure the vet has exprience with rabbits. Not all of them do.
ONE FINAL NOTE.
If you find that you are unable to care for your rabbit any longer PLEASE do not turn it loose. It cannot survive as a wild animal. Don't take it to the animal shelter, they will not be able to keep it very long before they have to dispose of it. I am always willing to accept my bunnies back under those circumstances although I may not be able to refund any money you paid.
Hoping you and your bunny will enjoy each other<br /><br />__________ Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:22 am __________<br /><br />PROPER CARE OF RABBITS
When you first get your rabbit it may be shy till it learns it can trust you. There are several things you must do to gain that trust. The first two things are very important. Never make fast moves around rabbits. Their instinct is to run away from fast moves. Never handle a rabbit in a noisy atmosphere. They don't like loud noises. Once they trust you and others in your family they will tolerate more noise. Try not to come from above at first when picking them up. Their instincts will kick in and tell them something coming from above (like a hawk) is dangerous.
When first handling your rabbit wear long sleeves. Rabbits will not harm you intentionally but they have sharp claws and if they strugle to get loose you may get scratched pretty good. They do not claw but rake so it doesn't take heavy clothing to protect yourself against that.
Learn to hold your rabbit properly. It must be fully supported so it doesn't think it is in danger of falling. Fold one arm across your chest and hold a small rabbit nestled in the crevice between that arm and your body. It often helps to let it nestle its head between your upper arm and body. Hold the other hand over the rabbit to control it if it starts to try to get away. Stroke it gently with that hand and speak to it softly.
If it does try to get away don't fight to hang on. That's when you can get a good scratch. Just stoop down and let it go. It will probably calm right down once it sees you aren't trying to harm it. It helps to handle it over a carpet or soft furniture like a couch at first so it won't be harmed if it falls.
The best way to pick up a rabbit is to sort of scoop it up with both hands making sure its chest and rump are both supported. A new rabbit may not allow you to do this so learn to "scruf" it. That is picking it up by a fold of loose skin just behind the forequarters. That does it no harm and most rabbits will not fight when held that way for a short time. NEVER pick it up by the ears. They may look like handles but that hurts.
Have a good sized cage available before getting your rabbit. Many pet stores have second hand cages available at a cheaper price than new ones but be sure it is a rabbit cage and not one for another animal. Have a place in the cage where they can hide. Even a cardbard box on its side will do. If it is to be kept inside and allowed to run at times the cage need not be as big as one you will need if it is to be kept confined outdoors most of the time. Ask me about the right locations for outdoor cages. Rabbits cannot take a lot of heat so should never be in full sun.
Rabbits are very clean animals and are easier to litter train than most cats. You will notice that the rabbit will choose a "potty corner", usually a rear corner, where it will go whenever it has to relieve itself. Get a triangular litter box and put it in that corner. Most rabbits will immediately start using it.
The rabbit "berries" are almost dry and heve little or no odor. It is the urine that has the odor so have a pan under the cage which can be easily cleaned. Use absorbant material such as kitty itter to absorb the urine but never use kitty litter inside the cage.Rabbits will chew anything that gets their attention and some types of kitty kitter are not good for them when ingested.
If your rabbit is to be let run inside the house keep that "chew anything" in mind. Anything includes things like wooden furniture. It also includes electrical cords and if your bunny bites into one of those it can go to bunny heaven fast. It is best to confine it to one area that has been rabbit proofed.
FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
A good brand of 16% rabbit pellets is really all the food your rabbit needs but greens are good for their health also. Avoid the pellets that are advertised as containing "treats" those usually contain things like dried fruit and are fattening. A fat bunny is seldom a healthy bunny. A young growing rabbit can be given all the food it will eat but as it gets older you probably will have to limit the amount of food it gets. Your rabbit should have access to water at all times. The water bottles you buy in pet stores are fine and most rabbits are already familiar with them. If they aren't they will learn to use one in only a day or two. Rabbits are smart.
Ask if your rabbit is used to eating fresh greens. If it isn't used to them feed only small amounts at a time till their system gets used to them. Hay should also be available. If you feed timothy hay you can let the bunny have all it wants. Hay isn't fattening but supplies the roughage a rabbit needs to have. Greens such as grass and clover are good rabbit food. They love dandelions but be sure they don't come from a lawn that has been sprayed with insecticide.
Limit treats like fruit to occasionally. Too much can be fattening and cause diarrhea. A treat should be a treat, not an everyday thing. Bugs Bunny aside, the roots of carrots contain too much sugar to be good everyday food. The tops however are excellent and most rabbits prefer the tops to the roots anyway. Most bunnies like bread but never feed fresh bread to a rabbit. Soft bread balls up in their stomachs and can give them a belly ache. Hard bread is fine but should only be an occasional treat as it is fattening. Sweet baked goods like cake and doughnuts are a no- no.
SOCIALIZING YOUR RABBIT
Spend some time each day getting to know your rabbit. Hold it on your lap and stroke it and talk to it. In no time it will be coming to you wanting to be held. Children under 10 should never handle a rabbit unsupervised. They can harm it without meaning to. A rabbits back is easily broken if handled roughly.
You may be surprised how many tricks you can teach a rabbit. There are rabbit organizations that have competitions with rabbits running races, obstacle courses and jumping. It's amazing how high a rabbit can jump. You will see that the rabbits have as much fun at these events as the owners do.
If you run into trouble with your bunny ask for help. If it's necessay to take it to a vet be sure the vet has exprience with rabbits. Not all of them do.
ONE FINAL NOTE.
If you find that you are unable to care for your rabbit any longer PLEASE do not turn it loose. It cannot survive as a wild animal. Don't take it to the animal shelter, they will not be able to keep it very long before they have to dispose of it. I am always willing to accept my bunnies back under those circumstances although I may not be able to refund any money you paid.
Hoping you and your bunny will enjoy each other
PROPER CARE OF RABBITS
When you first get your rabbit it may be shy till it learns it can trust you. There are several things you must do to gain that trust. The first two things are very important. Never make fast moves around rabbits. Their instinct is to run away from fast moves. Never handle a rabbit in a noisy atmosphere. They don't like loud noises. Once they trust you and others in your family they will tolerate more noise. Try not to come from above at first when picking them up. Their instincts will kick in and tell them something coming from above (like a hawk) is dangerous.
When first handling your rabbit wear long sleeves. Rabbits will not harm you intentionally but they have sharp claws and if they struggle to get loose you may get scratched pretty good. They do not claw but rake so it doesn't take heavy clothing to protect yourself against that.
Learn to hold your rabbit properly. It must be fully supported so it doesn't think it is in danger of falling. Fold one arm across your chest and hold a small rabbit nestled in the crevice between that arm and your body. It often helps to let it nestle its head between your upper arm and body. Hold the other hand over the rabbit to control it if it starts to try to get away. Stroke it gently with that hand and speak to it softly.
If it does try to get away don't fight to hang on. That's when you can get a good scratch. Just stoop down and let it go. It will probably calm right down once it sees you aren't trying to harm it. It helps to handle it over a carpet or soft furniture like a couch at first so it won't be harmed if it falls.
The best way to pick up a rabbit is to sort of scoop it up with both hands making sure its chest and rump are both supported. A new rabbit may not allow you to do this so learn to "scruf" it. That is picking it up by a fold of loose skin just behind the forequarters. That does it no harm and most rabbits will not fight when held that way for a short time. NEVER pick it up by the ears. They may look like handles but that hurts.
Have a good sized cage available before getting your rabbit. Many pet stores have second hand cages available at a cheaper price than new ones but be sure it is a rabbit cage and not one for another animal. Have a place in the cage where they can hide. Even a cardbard box on its side will do. If it is to be kept inside and allowed to run at times the cage need not be as big as one you will need if it is to be kept confined outdoors most of the time. Ask me about the right locations for outdoor cages. Rabbits cannot take a lot of heat so should never be in full sun.
Rabbits are very clean animals and are easier to litter train than most cats. You will notice that the rabbit will choose a "potty corner", usually a rear corner, where it will go whenever it has to relieve itself. Get a triangular litter box and put it in that corner. Most rabbits will immediately start using it.
The rabbit "berries" are almost dry and heve little or no odor. It is the urine that has the odor so have a pan under the cage which can be easily cleaned. Use absorbant material such as kitty itter to absorb the urine but never use kitty litter inside the cage.Rabbits will chew anything that gets their attention and some types of kitty kitter are not good for them when ingested.
If your rabbit is to be let run inside the house keep that "chew anything" in mind. Anything includes things like wooden furniture. It also includes electrical cords and if your bunny bites into one of those it can go to bunny heaven fast. It is best to confine it to one area that has been rabbit proofed.
FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
A good brand of 16% rabbit pellets is really all the food your rabbit needs but greens are good for their health also. Avoid the pellets that are advertised as containing "treats" those usually contain things like dried fruit and are fattening. A fat bunny is seldom a healthy bunny. A young growing rabbit can be given all the food it will eat but as it gets older you probably will have to limit the amount of food it gets. Your rabbit should have access to water at all times. The water bottles you buy in pet stores are fine and most rabbits are already familiar with them. If they aren't they will learn to use one in only a day or two. Rabbits are smart.
Ask if your rabbit is used to eating fresh greens. If it isn't used to them feed only small amounts at a time till their system gets used to them. Hay should also be available. If you feed timothy hay you can let the bunny have all it wants. Hay isn't fattening but supplies the roughage a rabbit needs to have. Greens such as grass and clover are good rabbit food. They love dandelions but be sure they don't come from a lawn that has been sprayed with insecticide.
Limit treats like fruit to occasionally. Too much can be fattening and cause diarrhea. A treat should be a treat, not an everyday thing. Bugs Bunny aside, the roots of carrots contain too much sugar to be good everyday food. The tops however are excellent and most rabbits prefer the tops to the roots anyway. Most bunnies like bread but never feed fresh bread to a rabbit. Soft bread balls up in their stomachs and can give them a belly ache. Hard bread is fine but should only be an occasional treat as it is fattening. Sweet baked goods like cake and doughnuts are a no- no.
SOCIALIZING YOUR RABBIT
Spend some time each day getting to know your rabbit. Hold it on your lap and stroke it and talk to it. In no time it will be coming to you wanting to be held. Children under 10 should never handle a rabbit unsupervised. They can harm it without meaning to. A rabbits back is easily broken if handled roughly.
You may be surprised how many tricks you can teach a rabbit. There are rabbit organizations that have competitions with rabbits running races, obstacle courses and jumping. It's amazing how high a rabbit can jump. You will see that the rabbits have as much fun at these events as the owners do.
If you run into trouble with your bunny ask for help. If it's necessay to take it to a vet be sure the vet has exprience with rabbits. Not all of them do.
ONE FINAL NOTE.
If you find that you are unable to care for your rabbit any longer PLEASE do not turn it loose. It cannot survive as a wild animal. Don't take it to the animal shelter, they will not be able to keep it very long before they have to dispose of it. I am always willing to accept my bunnies back under those circumstances although I may not be able to refund any money you paid.
Hoping you and your bunny will enjoy each other<br /><br />__________ Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:22 am __________<br /><br />PROPER CARE OF RABBITS
When you first get your rabbit it may be shy till it learns it can trust you. There are several things you must do to gain that trust. The first two things are very important. Never make fast moves around rabbits. Their instinct is to run away from fast moves. Never handle a rabbit in a noisy atmosphere. They don't like loud noises. Once they trust you and others in your family they will tolerate more noise. Try not to come from above at first when picking them up. Their instincts will kick in and tell them something coming from above (like a hawk) is dangerous.
When first handling your rabbit wear long sleeves. Rabbits will not harm you intentionally but they have sharp claws and if they strugle to get loose you may get scratched pretty good. They do not claw but rake so it doesn't take heavy clothing to protect yourself against that.
Learn to hold your rabbit properly. It must be fully supported so it doesn't think it is in danger of falling. Fold one arm across your chest and hold a small rabbit nestled in the crevice between that arm and your body. It often helps to let it nestle its head between your upper arm and body. Hold the other hand over the rabbit to control it if it starts to try to get away. Stroke it gently with that hand and speak to it softly.
If it does try to get away don't fight to hang on. That's when you can get a good scratch. Just stoop down and let it go. It will probably calm right down once it sees you aren't trying to harm it. It helps to handle it over a carpet or soft furniture like a couch at first so it won't be harmed if it falls.
The best way to pick up a rabbit is to sort of scoop it up with both hands making sure its chest and rump are both supported. A new rabbit may not allow you to do this so learn to "scruf" it. That is picking it up by a fold of loose skin just behind the forequarters. That does it no harm and most rabbits will not fight when held that way for a short time. NEVER pick it up by the ears. They may look like handles but that hurts.
Have a good sized cage available before getting your rabbit. Many pet stores have second hand cages available at a cheaper price than new ones but be sure it is a rabbit cage and not one for another animal. Have a place in the cage where they can hide. Even a cardbard box on its side will do. If it is to be kept inside and allowed to run at times the cage need not be as big as one you will need if it is to be kept confined outdoors most of the time. Ask me about the right locations for outdoor cages. Rabbits cannot take a lot of heat so should never be in full sun.
Rabbits are very clean animals and are easier to litter train than most cats. You will notice that the rabbit will choose a "potty corner", usually a rear corner, where it will go whenever it has to relieve itself. Get a triangular litter box and put it in that corner. Most rabbits will immediately start using it.
The rabbit "berries" are almost dry and heve little or no odor. It is the urine that has the odor so have a pan under the cage which can be easily cleaned. Use absorbant material such as kitty itter to absorb the urine but never use kitty litter inside the cage.Rabbits will chew anything that gets their attention and some types of kitty kitter are not good for them when ingested.
If your rabbit is to be let run inside the house keep that "chew anything" in mind. Anything includes things like wooden furniture. It also includes electrical cords and if your bunny bites into one of those it can go to bunny heaven fast. It is best to confine it to one area that has been rabbit proofed.
FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
A good brand of 16% rabbit pellets is really all the food your rabbit needs but greens are good for their health also. Avoid the pellets that are advertised as containing "treats" those usually contain things like dried fruit and are fattening. A fat bunny is seldom a healthy bunny. A young growing rabbit can be given all the food it will eat but as it gets older you probably will have to limit the amount of food it gets. Your rabbit should have access to water at all times. The water bottles you buy in pet stores are fine and most rabbits are already familiar with them. If they aren't they will learn to use one in only a day or two. Rabbits are smart.
Ask if your rabbit is used to eating fresh greens. If it isn't used to them feed only small amounts at a time till their system gets used to them. Hay should also be available. If you feed timothy hay you can let the bunny have all it wants. Hay isn't fattening but supplies the roughage a rabbit needs to have. Greens such as grass and clover are good rabbit food. They love dandelions but be sure they don't come from a lawn that has been sprayed with insecticide.
Limit treats like fruit to occasionally. Too much can be fattening and cause diarrhea. A treat should be a treat, not an everyday thing. Bugs Bunny aside, the roots of carrots contain too much sugar to be good everyday food. The tops however are excellent and most rabbits prefer the tops to the roots anyway. Most bunnies like bread but never feed fresh bread to a rabbit. Soft bread balls up in their stomachs and can give them a belly ache. Hard bread is fine but should only be an occasional treat as it is fattening. Sweet baked goods like cake and doughnuts are a no- no.
SOCIALIZING YOUR RABBIT
Spend some time each day getting to know your rabbit. Hold it on your lap and stroke it and talk to it. In no time it will be coming to you wanting to be held. Children under 10 should never handle a rabbit unsupervised. They can harm it without meaning to. A rabbits back is easily broken if handled roughly.
You may be surprised how many tricks you can teach a rabbit. There are rabbit organizations that have competitions with rabbits running races, obstacle courses and jumping. It's amazing how high a rabbit can jump. You will see that the rabbits have as much fun at these events as the owners do.
If you run into trouble with your bunny ask for help. If it's necessay to take it to a vet be sure the vet has exprience with rabbits. Not all of them do.
ONE FINAL NOTE.
If you find that you are unable to care for your rabbit any longer PLEASE do not turn it loose. It cannot survive as a wild animal. Don't take it to the animal shelter, they will not be able to keep it very long before they have to dispose of it. I am always willing to accept my bunnies back under those circumstances although I may not be able to refund any money you paid.
Hoping you and your bunny will enjoy each other
Otherwise, looks good!
