keep current buck for home meat production?

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Rainey

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I've been reading with interest the threads about what has happened to rabbits ( and other livestock) over recent decades and the one about inbreeding/line breeding. Trying to apply what I'm reading to decisions we need to make this summer about our rabbits. So here are some things I think I've learned from RT:
Breed the best--eat the rest
Breeding is an art--good parents don't always produce good offspring
The same doe will produce better kits with one buck than with another, even if the bucks are of equal quality
First time does are more apt to have problems kindling or raising kits
Don't get rid of your old buck until your replacement has been proven.
If any of those ideas are just wrong, I hope someone wiser will correct me.

So now I have a question--whether to keep our current buck, SF, almost 2 years old, just under 8 pounds, have had live kits every time from every doe we've bred to him, good disposition.

We started with this buck and 2 NZW does a year ago. Current 3 does are the daughters of this buck and the more successful of the does (culled for biting) The doe that has the largest litters seems to have insufficient milk or just not be a good mother--don't plan to rebreed her. None of the 3 has done as well as their mother so far. Do we keep breeding to the SF buck another season or would it make sense to keep a buck from the best of these does to breed next year--that buck would still have 1/4 NZ genes, right? Would that be a sensible move to try to get back some of the NZ productivity?

I know most people start with a related trio or at least with the same breed. But given where we are, any suggestions from someone more experienced? It also sounds as if most breeders are working with lots more rabbits--we only want to keep a buck and 3 or so does for growing our own meat, but it seems that we'd have to keep 2 bucks for a while and more does than we really want until we figure out who is productive.
And finally--whose best? The best of the does we're breeding this year might not make the cut in someone else's rabbitry. I find it all very confusing. When I read about problems others are having with no kits or disease issues, I feel like we're doing pretty well. Then when I read about others whose first time does never lose a kit and who get kits to 5 pounds in 8 weeks, I feel like we're contributing to the decline of livestock.

Need to remember how much I've learned in the last year and just keep on reading and breeding and keeping those records. And asking endless questions.
 
I feel like we're contributing to the decline of livestock.

I think you are a super responsible breeder who's doing your best to work towards a very solid forage line. Who is best should be determined by what YOU like seeing in YOUR rabbits. Since they are your own mutt line, your free to breed towards whatever makes you happiest.

To be honest, it's VERY HARD to make genetic progress with so few rabbits. :shrug: That is the main reason why a lot of us have so many rabbits, and are always looking for more cages... : :lol: :

With only room for 10 adult animals here, I've been relying heavily on another breeder with a similar amount of rabbits and similar goals. With both of us growing out and sorting through the best of what we produce, (and frequently buying or trading the best of each others stock when we were ready to move on) we were able to make a little progress. But even with 20 adult animals between us, it's not easy!!!

My number one rule of bucks is.
1. Never ever let go of your proven buck before his replacement proves himself.
Unless you are OK with not having a buck for a while, or are ready to source a buck from someone else.

I've gone buckless twice now trying to work with my own extremely limited cage space, and both times I've regretted it.

:lol:
 
I agree with Zass that 3 breeding rabbits is really rather small gene pool to work with and if your not seeing improvement with your line bred stock I'd bring in new blood to mix things up and see if you get any hopefuls in those litters

It might be a disaster and set you back a year or you might strike gold and take a big leap in the direction you want to go :)

It all part of the art of breeding

The "best" is relative to your goals so if you want to work on temperament then the "best" is the kindest rabbit, if you want to work of fur then the "best" is the one with the nices coat - rarely does one rabbit have the "best" of all traits but if he or she comes along you can keep breeding back to "stamp" their superior genes to your younger stock

I have 1 rabbit from my original 5 when I started 4 years ago and to me she is pretty near perfect :) and isn't going anywhere any time soon but it was just luck she is productive as she is as her full brother and half sister were duds and didn't last long in my program
 
I've been thinking about your situation a lot. If you do decide to bring in stock to increase productivity AND keep a good temper, (and you are not too worried about body "type") I strongly suggest you look into Americans.
I have nothing but great things to say about the local American lines I've encountered in regards to hardiness, productivity, mothering ability and temper. The part-american doe I have now is also tackling a large quantity of foraged greens each day and showing less trouble than the silverfox ever did. :shrug: The SF doe overproduces cecotropes every time I feed her greens. I'd come to expect that from the breed since every "pure" SF did the same, but the rest of my buns (harlis, velveteens, american-mutt, and actually, even the SF mutts) are not having any problem at all.

The only reason I do not work with Americans myself is because it doesn't offer enough colors to keep me interested.
 
Thanks, Zass for thinking about my question and sharing your experience.
The SF buck hasn't had any problem with the forage/grain/hay diet he's been on since soon after we brought him home. The only time we've seen cecotropes in any number has been late in pregnancy and that was the cross-bred does, only half SF. The NZW does did seem to be perpetually hungry where the mutts seem satisfied as fed.
And color doesn't matter to me--not crazy about just having REWs but just because it seems boring, not doing anything with pelts.
 
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