I’m wondering what the maximum age of the doe at her first breed is? I have seen varying views on this. Is 18 months old too old? Opinions and experiences please! The doe is 6 lbs. and is healthy otherwise.
How old is too old to breed for the first time?
- Thread starter Morgenglanz
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GriffinBun101
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I think you might be able to get away with 18 months, but possibly prepare for the litter to be either really big or really small. (That’s my experience with breeding older rabbits, with about 12 months being the oldest) I definitely would not breed a rabbit for the first time that’s over 3 years old, I usually retire my does at 5 years.
Thank you! I guess there’s no time like the present.
I have successfully bred first-time does that were over two years old, but it can be quite a challenge. They tell me that older does tend to put fat on around the ovaries, which suppresses ovulation somehow. Rabbits release their eggs after breeding, unlike most farm mammals which have regular hormonal breeding seasons (people as well) where they are more receptive to breeding.
There is also a mild rabbit cycle which you can check by looking at the girl's vulva (the outer 'slit' below the anus when you turn the rabbit belly-up.) If it is dark red, she is just past optimal breeding; if it is pale and thin, she's probably not interested; if the vulva is gently pink/purple and moist, she's usually ready to go.
The doe goes in to the buck for breeding. Older does may attack the buck, or run screeching laps around the cage to escape. Breeding during those first days of spring sometimes helps, usually early March to early April around here. For non-breeding does, I will sometimes switch cages with the buck and doe, so that she can be surrounded by the buck's odor, and hopefully be aroused. I then take the doe to the buck (in her own old cage) and try again, afterward return the buck to his orignial home. I usually wait three days after a doe has a dark-red vulva, for the mini cycle to run back to potential breeding status.
Sometimes a doe won't breed at all to the buck of your choice, and then happily pose for some other buck. I had an older doe that vehemently opposed any buck I brought her to, until I finally arrived at my last choice, a red-eyed white buck. She loved him. We were done in seconds.
You can try artificial broad-spectrum lighting, aiming for at least 14 hours of light at this time of year, to jump start the spring-breeding hormones. An older doe that is overweight would benefit from more exercise, to get rid of that excess fat around the ovaries. If nothing else works, old-time folklore suggests trying the breeding of a recalcitrant doe on the full moon.
There is also a mild rabbit cycle which you can check by looking at the girl's vulva (the outer 'slit' below the anus when you turn the rabbit belly-up.) If it is dark red, she is just past optimal breeding; if it is pale and thin, she's probably not interested; if the vulva is gently pink/purple and moist, she's usually ready to go.
The doe goes in to the buck for breeding. Older does may attack the buck, or run screeching laps around the cage to escape. Breeding during those first days of spring sometimes helps, usually early March to early April around here. For non-breeding does, I will sometimes switch cages with the buck and doe, so that she can be surrounded by the buck's odor, and hopefully be aroused. I then take the doe to the buck (in her own old cage) and try again, afterward return the buck to his orignial home. I usually wait three days after a doe has a dark-red vulva, for the mini cycle to run back to potential breeding status.
Sometimes a doe won't breed at all to the buck of your choice, and then happily pose for some other buck. I had an older doe that vehemently opposed any buck I brought her to, until I finally arrived at my last choice, a red-eyed white buck. She loved him. We were done in seconds.
You can try artificial broad-spectrum lighting, aiming for at least 14 hours of light at this time of year, to jump start the spring-breeding hormones. An older doe that is overweight would benefit from more exercise, to get rid of that excess fat around the ovaries. If nothing else works, old-time folklore suggests trying the breeding of a recalcitrant doe on the full moon.
Wow, thanks so much Judymac! Looks like I’m on the right track. They are next to each other and the light is on late and so far they seem to really like each other.
I am still on the fence about whether to breed her now with my proven Satin Angora buck for a cross breed or to wait a few more months until the English Angora buck is mature enough to breed.. The doe is a pedigreed English Angora. Is it going to make a big difference for her to wait for her mate to be ready or should I go ahead with the Satin buck just to make sure she’s able? He’s purebred but I don’t have his paperwork as he is a rescue. It would be a test breeding for both. How bad would their coats be??
I am still on the fence about whether to breed her now with my proven Satin Angora buck for a cross breed or to wait a few more months until the English Angora buck is mature enough to breed.. The doe is a pedigreed English Angora. Is it going to make a big difference for her to wait for her mate to be ready or should I go ahead with the Satin buck just to make sure she’s able? He’s purebred but I don’t have his paperwork as he is a rescue. It would be a test breeding for both. How bad would their coats be??
I've had some lovely English x Satin Angora kits, with lovely fleeces, the best of both worlds; and of course, sometimes you get the worst. You won't get satin fiber the first generation, it takes two recessive satin genes to make satin fiber. But, you may still get nice fine, soft fiber, and probably more than you would normally get from a purebred Satin Angora.
I've been in your position, trying to balance between waiting for a buck to mature, and trying to get a doe bred while you still can. I generally lean to the side of 'get the doe bred'. Once she has had a litter, even if she loses it, or it is to a buck that isn't your first choice, she should be much more likely to breed again next time, when it can be to the buck of your choice.
I've been in your position, trying to balance between waiting for a buck to mature, and trying to get a doe bred while you still can. I generally lean to the side of 'get the doe bred'. Once she has had a litter, even if she loses it, or it is to a buck that isn't your first choice, she should be much more likely to breed again next time, when it can be to the buck of your choice.
Exactly what I was thinking. That's good to know about the fiber. Satin is not the goal here in fact I am looking for a self or agouti Satin doe for him. I think the breeding will happen today, at least we'll make the attempt. She seems to really like the Satin buck so I'm hoping it goes smoothly. Fingers are crossed for nice coats! Thanks again Judymac!
And it was a success!! She was into it and so was he. She lifted and he had several fall offs until she decided she was done and asked to be let out. I really hope she settles!
Woo hoo! Let us know how it turns out, and what the fleeces look like. One of my favorite fleeces is from a half satin, half English buck that was the result of one of these breedings to an older doe. Soft, nice color, doesn't mat.
I can’t wait to see the fleeces! It’s going to be interesting to see what colors they throw too. He’s a broken chocolate agouti and the doe is broken blue. Broken to broken is not my first choice but it’s what I have mature enough to work with. The buck threw a broken agouti and he’s nice so far, hopefully he makes it through puberty with a good temperament like his sire. He’s quite similar so far.
Still working on the rearranging of the cages. It’s not a simple thing! Really hoping to make some progress on the barn walls this weekend so I can set them up in the aisle. This will simplify things quite a bit.
Finishing up a few more hay racks with leftover wire. I can’t believe how much less hay I’m going through! Totally worth it!
Got the herd woven grass mats for their cages and they went crazy for them.
She’s been making a nest and has a hay mustache so it won’t be long! She’s in and out of the box.
RabbitsOfTheCreek
Netherland Dwarf Breeder & Well-known Member
Just now? She was due three days ago
She was bred on October 12. According to global pedigree she’s due today..
Buknee
Bella Rose Rabbitry
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Thank you for keeping us posted!
I don't know where you are located, but make certain she pulls enough fur.
Lots of newborn litters being lost due to extreme cold right now.
My son's rex litter included. Just talking with a gal today that lost her litter of Flemish and three of her breeder friends lost a litter as well.
I don't know where you are located, but make certain she pulls enough fur.
Lots of newborn litters being lost due to extreme cold right now.
My son's rex litter included. Just talking with a gal today that lost her litter of Flemish and three of her breeder friends lost a litter as well.
RabbitsOfTheCreek
Netherland Dwarf Breeder & Well-known Member
Ah sorry, I was going off of the day this was posted
Think I was still debating whether it was a good idea at that point. Turns out it was!!
My Willow has kindled this morning and has had six kits so far! I suspect that she’s finished but time will tell. Looks like she has 4 brokens, a Charlie and a solid, not sure if it’s a self or agouti. She had two on the wire and the others were all found in her nest so she must have figured it out. Are they mostly blue?? Color help appreciated!!
Oh no! That’s awful. I’m so sorry to hear about the lost kits. More difficult for a child though.
Until my barn is finished I’ve got some in the house, including this doe. Next weekend the last wall goes up, thankfully just in time for cold weather.
She’s pulled lots of wool and is eating and drinking well. She had a pile of greens this morning and was happy and active. She’s been checking on them frequently and is doing a fine job so far.
They look black to me now. Lol
