Grumpy (or others with auto waterers)

[TerriG]

I am trying to think through my auto waterer that I want to install. I have looked back over the "start to finish" thread. I want it to be a re-circulating system. I am stuck on the best way to run it. I will post some pictures of my rabbitry and try to explain what I am thinking.

This was our first bank of cages, looking into rabbitry from outside the fence. We are still using trays, but not the ones pictured here. We will be switching to a slant board system.


Here is a picture when we had all 3 banks built. The pvc and black plastic that you see are part of the trays. The hutches form a "U" with about 2 feet clearance between the "!"'s of the U and the "_" of the U.


You can see in this picture where we have the water bottles now. We hang a secondary one on the side.


What I was thinking about doing is running the pvc down the front corner 2x4's and then "T" off for the water valves. I would still like to have 2 valves per cage (does and grow-outs). I can visualize all of that.

Where I am stuck is how to make it recirculating. Also, can I run all 3 banks (13 cages and 23 valves) off of one tank and pump? I can run pipe along the roofs of the hutches.

This is the addition that we are building and it will house the water tank and other supplies. I have gotten a bit further than this shows, but I don't have new pics yet. The addition will have a 10' high pitch, so I have plenty of room to work above the hutches.


Here is a picture with our mocked up gutter system I want to also have a flush valve on the end of each gutter, which will be very easy since that is where I will be running the pvc (down the 2x4's) anyway.
<br /><br />__________ Sat Jun 08, 2013 11:06 am __________<br /><br />Hopefully what I wrote makes sense and you can help me figure this out. It is so hard to explain things on the internet

 

[grumpy]

:?: ????2 feet clearance between the "!"'s of the U and the "_" of the U.???? :?:

NO....T's!!!

Visualize one single pipe running through each pen on the upper level.
Use your fittings to make each of the turns. You've got 2X4 frames, so you'll have to use a spade bit and drill a hole 8" off the floor if you've got meat rabbits. Lower if you've got smaller breeds.

Once you've got the top tier piped, "Ninety-down" to the next row and go "BACK" the way you came....only one tier lower. You'll have to use plumber's strap to anchor the pipe to the back walls...they look to be wood.

Got the second tier done....."Ninety-down" again and catch the bottom row. Once the bottom tier is done...go "Ninety-up" to the top of your water bucket or barrel and over to the reservoir. Gravity will carry the water completely through the watering system and go up the last standing pipe. It will level off to the level "inside" your tank.

Remember........one continuous line...ending up where you started. You can buy those foam insulater thingys that slip over the exposed pipes running between batteries of cages. If you looked at my system you'll see the pump sets on a nipple coming out of the tank bottom. You can also use "heat-tape" in spots the rabbits won't chew.

Your problem is going to be heating your water during the winter. Forget about a cattle tank heater....those are thermostatically controled to come on a degree or two above freezing. THAT WON'T WORK FOR YOU. You're gonna need water in the mid to high ninety's coming out your tank.

I don't trust those "complete-watering-systems" you can buy through rabbit supply houses. BESIDES:::::::They're outrageously expensive. Definately not worth their asking price.

If you have to "drop" the line down to the ground for a door opening, that's okay. Just make sure the pipe's insulated and out of a draft. I've got two in my main breeding room. The one along the outside wall has heat-tape going around it.

Take another look at your set-up and see if you can visualize what I'm talkin' about. get back with me. If it won't work for you, I've got another solution.

BTW: You can't use "drop-downs" for the water nipples...they'll freeze. The nipples have to be "in-line" with the rest of the pvc piping.

grumpy.

 

[TerriG]

I only have 2 tiers, but I have 3 sets of cages. I just finished repairing and adding on to our drip system in the garden (came with the house). I am familiar with working with pvc and all the fittings, just haven't done a waterer. I realize what you are saying about the nipples freezing now that you point that out.

The 2 ft that I was talking about was that my 3 banks of cages are in the shape of a "U". There is 2 ft of clearance between where the cages that run east/west and the one that runs north/south. So the east/west cage ends, then there is 2 ft until the front of the cage that runs north/south. Hopefully that makes more sense now.

I was planning on running all the pipe on the outside of the cages and then cut through the wire for the actual drinking valve. I don't want the pipe to run on the back side of the cages as they will not be protected at all from the weather. Running them on the front would be much better.

I will think through the rest of what you said and see what I can come up with. I know you use heaters in a closet with your tank. Is that the best way? I was looking at bucket heaters or something like that. Back to the drawing board on that too. I can enclose the tank, and even insulate the cabinet, but I'm not sure on heating it. We are still running off of a 14 gauge extension cord. We run shop lights on a timer, and brooder lights in the winter. I live in Utah, so we get downright cold.

I do have meat rabbits.<br /><br />__________ Sat Jun 08, 2013 8:51 pm __________<br /><br />If I remember right, the valves that you use screw into a "T" of sorts. I know in your tute, you ran them horizontal with a slight downward angle. I remember someone saying that they did theirs without the downward angle and never had a problem with it. Is there a reason I couldn't run those vertical? I think I figured out how to make it all work if I can run those valve t's vertical.