FYI on the Miller AH2424 and Klubertanze "K" stacking cages

Rabbit Talk  Forum

Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bigrig

Active member
Joined
Nov 14, 2010
Messages
38
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
I was curious as to the gauge of wire used on the Miller AH2424 (24" x 24") cage being sold at Rural King and elsewhere. I posed the question on the Rural King website and this was their response.

Your question regarding product Little Giant Rabbit Cage 24 x 24 AH2424 has been answered
Your question:
What gauge wire is used for the mesh, and is it galvanized before or after welding?

Their answer is:
Hello,
The bottom of the cage is made of 16 gauge metal and the top and sides are made of 14 gauge metal. The reason for the difference is that the bottom is made of a 1" x 1" wire panel, but the top and sides have openings that are 1" x 2", and need to be made of heavier gauge metal for extra support.

The metal panels are galvanized after they are welded , which is also known as "post-weld galvanized".

So the bottom is only 1"x1"? And the gauge is lighter because of that? I guess the rabbit's weight is negligible in their mind. I may still buy some, but order replacement 14ga 1x1/2 panels from whoever I order the doe/growout cages from later.

I also contacted Klubertanz and was told I could add baby saver wire to a HK8 stacking cage for no special setup charges and only $2.61 increase in cost per cage.
Yes, we allow that substitution without getting involved with custom charges. Your additional cost per cage is $2.61.

Thanks

Sincerely,

Klubertanz Equipment
Edgerton Wi
Ph: 608-884-9481 Toll free 800-237-3899
 
I'm glad you mentioned Klubertanz's location, I'm not too far from them and just ordered my first 2 compartment rabbit carriers!

Thanks Bigrig!
 
Bigrig":1t6pn8kg said:
The bottom of the cage is made of 16 gauge metal and the top and sides are made of 14 gauge metal. The reason for the difference is that the bottom is made of a 1" x 1" wire panel, but the top and sides have openings that are 1" x 2", and need to be made of heavier gauge metal for extra support.
So the bottom is only 1"x1"? And the gauge is lighter because of that? I guess the rabbit's weight is negligible in their mind. I may still buy some, but order replacement 14ga 1x1/2 panels from whoever I order the doe/growout cages from later.
That is so strange! I have never heard of using 1"x1" for rabbits, and I would think it would be quite unsafe, increasing the chances of broken toes and sore hocks. Especially at 16 gauge.

I suppose they make their floors for nearly weightless rabbits with giant feet? :shrug: Don't understand the reasoning at all.
 
They MUST be wrong on that sizing. I have pictures of two "in use" cages at the local Rural King. It certainly APPEARS that the wire is 1x1/2. It is possible that the cages they use for selling rabbits are not the same as the ones they sell for rabbits? Still I do not like the 16 gauge for the floor.
 
The cages are different right? Miller AH2424 are not the same as klubbertanz cages?

This is from the klubertanz product catalog:

K-Series Multi-Stacking Hutches
Rectangular Stacking Cages With Metal Support Legs at Each Level
Cage Specifications and Ordering Instructions:
1. The K-series cages are manufactured by our own company. This series offers a wide
variety of options, which allows you to purchase cages that fit your needs.
2. Units can be stacked one, two, or three high with the heavy, galvanized steel cage legs that
are included with each cage.
3. Cages are ideal for a variety of animals, including rabbits, dogs, puppies, ferrets, etc. For
rabbits, we do not recommend the vinyl wire option.
4. Units include the high-quality plastic Dura-Trays. Super easy to clean, and they will never
rust!
5. Doors are framed and swing out to the right. The front of the cage is designed with
superior door locks compared to those on our competitors' models, and the door opening
is slightly offset, leaving room for a feeder. Feeders sold separately.
6. 4" high urine guards are a standard option for galvanized wire cages (Code R). A ringer is
required for installation. They are available for vinyl coated wire cages upon request.
These galvanized metal panels can be fitted to the inside of the cage, which helps to
prevent urinating past the tray.
7. Blue, solid poly dividers and different mesh floor panels are available upon request. Wire
dividers are standard for multi-compartment cages.
8. Cage sides and top are made of 2" X 1", 14-gauge galvanized after wire for galvanized wire
cages, and 2" X 1", 14-gauge sides and top for black vinyl wire cages.
9. Floors for galvanized wire cages are either ½" X ½", 16-gauge galvanized after wire for
14" high cages, or 1" X ½", 14-gauge galvanized after wire for 18" high cages. See
pricing table below for floor options in black vinyl wire cages.

10. Some Assembly Required. Cages are priced collapsed, pre-cut, and with the front
complete. Galvanized wire cages include plated steel J clips for assembly. Black vinyl
coated wire cages include stainless steel J clips. J-clip pliers WILL BE required to complete the assembly of all cages. A
ringer WILL BE required to attach cage rings and to complete assembly for all cages with 1" X 1", 12 ½ -gauge vinyl floors
(Code W) and for all cages with a poly dividers substitution. See tool rental information below, or Page 12 of our catalog to
purchase a new ringer or pliers.

Pretty normal for rabbit cages. I do like all the options available from klubertanz.

Anyway, the baby saver on my klubertanz cages is really nice. I had them put it on all of the cages, and for the price they were asking, I feel it was totally worth it.

Well...don't wait until spring to order!! Last year they were backed up for months! Oh, and their j-clip pliers are worth owning too. I assembled 6 big cages last year and my hands didn't hurt at all. I'm glad I paid all $14 to purchase a pair instead of just renting them.
 
Zass":2gz7ucul said:
The cages are different right? Miller AH2424 are not the same as klubbertanz cages?
Yes, Miller makes cages for Rural King and other places. Klubbertanz makes their own. I am just going to assume whoever responded to me misread 1/2" as 1". I haven't ordered any cages yet as I am still trying to plan out my temporary rabbitry in my garage. Even going with 24" deep cages I still will have 30-32" clearance face-to-face between cage rows with the "best" layout I have found so far.
 
Bigrig":27igee9k said:
Zass":27igee9k said:
The cages are different right? Miller AH2424 are not the same as klubbertanz cages?
Yes, Miller makes cages for Rural King and other places. Klubbertanz makes their own. I am just going to assume whoever responded to me misread 1/2" as 1". I haven't ordered any cages yet as I am still trying to plan out my temporary rabbitry in my garage. Even going with 24" deep cages I still will have 30-32" clearance face-to-face between cage rows with the "best" layout I have found so far.


I hated the 24 x 24 cages I had and ended up taking them apart to build larger pens.

The 48x24 cages I ordered still cannot hold a 8.5 lb doe and a 8 week old litter of 10, and I'm forced to wean earlier than I'd like when my does make big litters.
 
Zass":1q42zbmt said:
I hated the 24 x 24 cages I had and ended up taking them apart to build larger pens.
While I would prefer to use pens larger than 24x24 and 24x36 space is at a premium on a small city lot. Unless, of course, I put them in the basement (which just won't happen). I am trying to make space for four 24x36 growout pens for two does. I REALLY need to find a nice 5-10 acre plot to homestead.
 
Miss M":1p8ffyop said:
Bigrig":1p8ffyop said:
That is so strange! I have never heard of using 1"x1" for rabbits, and I would think it would be quite unsafe, increasing the chances of broken toes and sore hocks. Especially at 16 gauge.

I suppose they make their floors for nearly weightless rabbits with giant feet? :shrug: Don't understand the reasoning at all.

some of the older literature on raising rabbits [from California] suggested that 3/4 x 3/4, or 1" x 1" for cage bottoms was good, but later experience with foot problems, and young rabbits crippled from leg injuries , have caused the "revision" of the recommendations, so-- most cage people make only 1/2 inch wide spaces for cage floors. -[ I personally would love to see a manufacturer make 1" x 5/8" 14 gauge floor material]
 
Back
Top