MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
Some of our members are having issues with fleas on their rabbits and other pets. Since I am a big proponent of natural control methods, and they are not an immediate knock-down kill, I thought an understanding of the life cycle of the nasty little pests would be helpful in understanding why it might take a month or more to partially or totally eradicate the population. 
I have never used pesticides for flea control, but rather used a combination of combing my animals with a flea comb as many times daily as possible, bathing, and applying Borax to areas that favor eggs and larvae. Food-grade diatomaceous earth is a good alternative to Borax, but I was not familiar with it when we had flea problems 15+ years ago.
There are also beneficial nematodes that are predators of fleas in their various life cycle stages. These can be applied outdoors. However, they will also be killed by diatomaceous earth, so if you decide on this option, do not apply DE to the areas of proposed application beforehand.
The text below is copied from:
http://www.pest-control-supplies.com/fl ... _cycle.htm
THE FOUR STAGES OF THE FLEA LIFE CYCLE
FLEA EGGS
* The flea egg represents approximately 34% of the total flea population at any given time.
* They are smooth, oval, pearlescent, approximately 0.5 mm or 1/64 of an inch long, and are visible to the naked eye (a little smaller than a grain of sand).
* They hatch in 1.5 to 6 days, depending on temperature and humidity.
* Eggs are generally concentrated in area frequented by pets; i.e. bedding, dog houses, favorite resting area, etc., but can be deposited anywhere the pet has been.
FLEA LARVAE
* The larvae account for approximately for 57% of the flea population at any given time.
* The larvae emerge from the egg using a special "egg-buster" spine on the head. The spine is lost during the first larval molt.
* They are legless, whitish and maggot-like in appearance, having a single row of bristles on each side. They are about 3 mm long or 1/32 to 5/32 of an inch long, and are very active, using the bristles to move.
* The larvae molt through three larval instars, lasting from 6-36 days, depending on temperature and humidity. Each instar is slightly longer than the last.
* They are very susceptible to humidity, with low humidity being detrimental to the larval.
* They feed primarily on adult flea excrement, which is more less dried blood from feeding on the host. This is often called "flea dirt", and is often mistaken for flea larvae or eggs. This is the dark specks that is seen on the animal or left behind where an infested animal lays. The larvae need this in order to survive.
* Although very active, larvae do not range far from the area in which the larvae hatch.
* Larvae are negatively phototactic, which means they avoid sunlight, hence they are more likely to be found in dark, shaded, or protected places.
* Larvae will be mainly found in the pet's favorite resting areas.
PUPA (COCOON)
* Accounts for approximately 8% of the flea population.
* Larvae form cocoons by secreting a stick substance and incorporating debris from surrounding areas for camouflage.
* The cocoon provides a protective barrier which makes it resistant to chemicals and pesticides.
* Pupa progress from larval form to a recognizable flea inside the cocoon.
* Development takes place in about 7-10 days; however, the cocoon will lie dormant in the environment until the outside temperature and humidity is high enough, and it senses a certain degree of vibration. A passing host subjects enough vibration for the cocoon to hatch.
* Cocoons may remain dormant over years if they are not stimulated to hatch. This accounts for the "VACATION SYNDROME", when people and pets return to the home the vibrations begin immediately which can start a massive wave of flea emergence.
ADULT FLEAS
* Adult fleas only account for approximately 1% of the total flea population.
* Newly emerged fleas (from the cocoon) are often mistaken for "baby fleas" because they are very small, dark (almost black), and flat. These are merely new adults that have not yet taken a blood meal.
* Adults are wingless and range from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch in length. They are black to brownish-black in color.
* After locating a host and feeding, the fleas "plump up" and turn a reddish-brown color, and are then recognized by most owner as a flea.
* Adults are stimulated to emerge from cocoons by vibration and changes in temperature. Daily vacuuming is recommended, discarding the bag after each use.
* Under normal circumstances the adults emerge from the cocoons in 7-10 days.
* Visual and heat stimuli are primary modes that attract adult fleas to host; carbon dioxide causes random jumping and is a minor mode of host-seeking
* Once they locate a host, fleas will feed, mate, lay eggs and spend over 90% of their lives on the host, unless dislodged.
* After emerging from cocoons, adults can live up to two years without a blood meal if they have not yet fed; feeding on flea feces, fungus, and skin dander.
* Once a blood meal is taken, the adults must feed at least every 4-6 hours.
* Feeding periods are from 4-7 minutes in duration.
* Egg production begins 2 days following the first blood meal, with the greatest number of eggs being produced on the sixth or seventh day after the first blood meal.
* Average eggs laid per day is 31-46; average number in female lifetime is 300-800.
* Average life span on host is about 12 days, with accounts of up to 113 days. If fleas are seen continuously on pet, this is evidence of re-infestation of new adults.
* Fleas jump on a average of 9-15 inches high.
FLEA CONTROL METHODS
Indoor Treatment:
The number of individual treatments necessary will depend upon the degree of infestation and the thoroughness of each treatment. A mild infestation may only require one treatment, whereas, a medium to heavy infestation may require several.
Vacuum all floors, carpets, baseboards, pet bedding and furniture (especially between the cushions and the floor underneath). Vacuuming not only removes a percentage of fleas and eggs, but it also stimulates the cocoons to hatch. Vacuum prior to treatment and resume vacuuming 24 hours after treatment. Recent research indicates that daily vacuuming for two to three weeks after treatment will expedite the elimination of fleas. Either discard the vacuum bag after each use. For flea-control on hardwood floors, begin with vacuuming the floors and baseboards, then spray the floor including all cracks, crevices and baseboards.
Foggers are not 100% effective because the fog will not reach underneath large pieces of furniture i.e., sofas, beds, tables, etc. To obtain 100 % coverage it is better to spray as set out below.
The first treatment should include a spray with a quick knockdown insecticide such as Permethrin mixed with a FGR (Flea Growth Regulator), such as FleaFix Wait 24 hours to begin daily vacuuming. The growth regulator will take about three weeks to gain control of the eggs. Some adults will hatch during this period because the FGR will inhibit the development of the eggs and larvae, and the insecticide will kill the adults. The cocoons remain unaffected and will eventually hatch within 5-10 days under normal circumstances. The cocoons require humidity, warmth and vibration in order to hatch. When the cocoons hatch, the adult fleas emerge, which requires another treatment of insecticide to eliminate the newly-hatched fleas. This is the reason for additional treatments. re-spraying with Permethrin will get rid of the new hatchlings but if you don't want to re-spray the growth inhibitor will stop ant further eggs from hatching. Continue daily vacuuming for about two to three weeks. A mild infestation may not require repeat treatments.
Outdoor Treatment:
To control fleas outdoors, spray the Permethrin, in the areas where the pet spends the majority of time i.e., kennels, runs, beds fence lines, along sidewalks and driveways, underneath decks, and areas adjacent to foundations, etc. A repeat treatment may be necessary after four weeks.
I have never used pesticides for flea control, but rather used a combination of combing my animals with a flea comb as many times daily as possible, bathing, and applying Borax to areas that favor eggs and larvae. Food-grade diatomaceous earth is a good alternative to Borax, but I was not familiar with it when we had flea problems 15+ years ago.
There are also beneficial nematodes that are predators of fleas in their various life cycle stages. These can be applied outdoors. However, they will also be killed by diatomaceous earth, so if you decide on this option, do not apply DE to the areas of proposed application beforehand.
The text below is copied from:
http://www.pest-control-supplies.com/fl ... _cycle.htm
THE FOUR STAGES OF THE FLEA LIFE CYCLE
FLEA EGGS
* The flea egg represents approximately 34% of the total flea population at any given time.
* They are smooth, oval, pearlescent, approximately 0.5 mm or 1/64 of an inch long, and are visible to the naked eye (a little smaller than a grain of sand).
* They hatch in 1.5 to 6 days, depending on temperature and humidity.
* Eggs are generally concentrated in area frequented by pets; i.e. bedding, dog houses, favorite resting area, etc., but can be deposited anywhere the pet has been.
FLEA LARVAE
* The larvae account for approximately for 57% of the flea population at any given time.
* The larvae emerge from the egg using a special "egg-buster" spine on the head. The spine is lost during the first larval molt.
* They are legless, whitish and maggot-like in appearance, having a single row of bristles on each side. They are about 3 mm long or 1/32 to 5/32 of an inch long, and are very active, using the bristles to move.
* The larvae molt through three larval instars, lasting from 6-36 days, depending on temperature and humidity. Each instar is slightly longer than the last.
* They are very susceptible to humidity, with low humidity being detrimental to the larval.
* They feed primarily on adult flea excrement, which is more less dried blood from feeding on the host. This is often called "flea dirt", and is often mistaken for flea larvae or eggs. This is the dark specks that is seen on the animal or left behind where an infested animal lays. The larvae need this in order to survive.
* Although very active, larvae do not range far from the area in which the larvae hatch.
* Larvae are negatively phototactic, which means they avoid sunlight, hence they are more likely to be found in dark, shaded, or protected places.
* Larvae will be mainly found in the pet's favorite resting areas.
PUPA (COCOON)
* Accounts for approximately 8% of the flea population.
* Larvae form cocoons by secreting a stick substance and incorporating debris from surrounding areas for camouflage.
* The cocoon provides a protective barrier which makes it resistant to chemicals and pesticides.
* Pupa progress from larval form to a recognizable flea inside the cocoon.
* Development takes place in about 7-10 days; however, the cocoon will lie dormant in the environment until the outside temperature and humidity is high enough, and it senses a certain degree of vibration. A passing host subjects enough vibration for the cocoon to hatch.
* Cocoons may remain dormant over years if they are not stimulated to hatch. This accounts for the "VACATION SYNDROME", when people and pets return to the home the vibrations begin immediately which can start a massive wave of flea emergence.
ADULT FLEAS
* Adult fleas only account for approximately 1% of the total flea population.
* Newly emerged fleas (from the cocoon) are often mistaken for "baby fleas" because they are very small, dark (almost black), and flat. These are merely new adults that have not yet taken a blood meal.
* Adults are wingless and range from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch in length. They are black to brownish-black in color.
* After locating a host and feeding, the fleas "plump up" and turn a reddish-brown color, and are then recognized by most owner as a flea.
* Adults are stimulated to emerge from cocoons by vibration and changes in temperature. Daily vacuuming is recommended, discarding the bag after each use.
* Under normal circumstances the adults emerge from the cocoons in 7-10 days.
* Visual and heat stimuli are primary modes that attract adult fleas to host; carbon dioxide causes random jumping and is a minor mode of host-seeking
* Once they locate a host, fleas will feed, mate, lay eggs and spend over 90% of their lives on the host, unless dislodged.
* After emerging from cocoons, adults can live up to two years without a blood meal if they have not yet fed; feeding on flea feces, fungus, and skin dander.
* Once a blood meal is taken, the adults must feed at least every 4-6 hours.
* Feeding periods are from 4-7 minutes in duration.
* Egg production begins 2 days following the first blood meal, with the greatest number of eggs being produced on the sixth or seventh day after the first blood meal.
* Average eggs laid per day is 31-46; average number in female lifetime is 300-800.
* Average life span on host is about 12 days, with accounts of up to 113 days. If fleas are seen continuously on pet, this is evidence of re-infestation of new adults.
* Fleas jump on a average of 9-15 inches high.
FLEA CONTROL METHODS
Indoor Treatment:
The number of individual treatments necessary will depend upon the degree of infestation and the thoroughness of each treatment. A mild infestation may only require one treatment, whereas, a medium to heavy infestation may require several.
Vacuum all floors, carpets, baseboards, pet bedding and furniture (especially between the cushions and the floor underneath). Vacuuming not only removes a percentage of fleas and eggs, but it also stimulates the cocoons to hatch. Vacuum prior to treatment and resume vacuuming 24 hours after treatment. Recent research indicates that daily vacuuming for two to three weeks after treatment will expedite the elimination of fleas. Either discard the vacuum bag after each use. For flea-control on hardwood floors, begin with vacuuming the floors and baseboards, then spray the floor including all cracks, crevices and baseboards.
Foggers are not 100% effective because the fog will not reach underneath large pieces of furniture i.e., sofas, beds, tables, etc. To obtain 100 % coverage it is better to spray as set out below.
The first treatment should include a spray with a quick knockdown insecticide such as Permethrin mixed with a FGR (Flea Growth Regulator), such as FleaFix Wait 24 hours to begin daily vacuuming. The growth regulator will take about three weeks to gain control of the eggs. Some adults will hatch during this period because the FGR will inhibit the development of the eggs and larvae, and the insecticide will kill the adults. The cocoons remain unaffected and will eventually hatch within 5-10 days under normal circumstances. The cocoons require humidity, warmth and vibration in order to hatch. When the cocoons hatch, the adult fleas emerge, which requires another treatment of insecticide to eliminate the newly-hatched fleas. This is the reason for additional treatments. re-spraying with Permethrin will get rid of the new hatchlings but if you don't want to re-spray the growth inhibitor will stop ant further eggs from hatching. Continue daily vacuuming for about two to three weeks. A mild infestation may not require repeat treatments.
Outdoor Treatment:
To control fleas outdoors, spray the Permethrin, in the areas where the pet spends the majority of time i.e., kennels, runs, beds fence lines, along sidewalks and driveways, underneath decks, and areas adjacent to foundations, etc. A repeat treatment may be necessary after four weeks.
