Do you treat your bites and scratches?

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Usually my scratches rarely draw blood. If it bleeds I just put pressure on it with a paper towel. Bites on the other hand often bleeds. I use the paper towel till the bleeding stops and often don't use a bandage unless it keeps bleeding.
Most bites are accidents when my rabbits are hungry. Mean rabbits get processed.
 
Well, here we wash all scratches and treat any that bleed with a little Neosporin. We always put on Neosporin for a bite, although we haven't had many yet and they have bled minimally. We do the same for cat scratches, since their claws can hold so much bacteria. It's more of an insurance against infections.
If I had a good salve, I would probably be fine using that for it, but we save the salve we have for insect stings, right now.
 
Ha. Got bit last week by a doe while removing two dead kits out of the litter. Funny thing is I had the stopper in my other hand to keep her from coming in when she bit. I was too excited about her having her second litter after loosing all of the first litter and forgot to block her with it. Did draw a tiny bit of blood but nothing major. I chalked it up to incompetency on my end and her being protective. Didn’t bandage it or use neosporin. Hope I can earn her trust and I can break her out of it. But I hear aggressive does with kits are very good mothers. So far she is an outstanding mother.
 
I admit that I handle new mommas with a denim jacket and thick gardening gloves. I don't get infected easily so I tend to ignore a cut as long as it bleeds. If it's more of a puncture that doesn't bleed I'll either scrub until it does or pour hydrogen peroxide over it.
 
My does know not to bite my, but when I get but by any rabbit it doesn't usually draw blood, but if it does I put Neosporin on a bandaid and but the bandaid on after cleaning the Bute with water and drying it off
 
Generally scratches don't really get treated. Washed after handling the rabbits, but then handwashing happens whether there's scratches or not. Bites don't happen. These buns are handled from birth, they know better than biting. Temperament is something that is factored into breeding choices, too. Fiber quality, ease of coat maintenance, ease of fiber harvest, temperament, color and conformation. At least, that's the criteria at the moment, it changes over time. So, no, they don't bite. Any bunny who would even think about biting doesn't get bred.
 
I don't usually treat any of my gashes from woodworking, stained glass, or rabbits. However, with all the crap that's going on in the world I decided I would put a little spray bottle of betadine in the rabbitry. I've been spraying it on any scratches I get either from the rabbits or from the rusty metal edges of things. It makes a little scratch look extremely impressive with big bloody lines running down your leg and arm LOL

Liz
 
Lol, it took me some time to realise it wasn't about scratches and bites on rabbits :D

Well, whatever the cause (I work with metal all day, make my own firewood etc.), if it's bad enough that I need a bandaid (need, not just out of convinience) I put Betaisodona (local brand name?) on it. Always have a tube at hand.
I was pretty bad at handling rabbits for years, often looked like I did sparring matches against Freddy Krueger with hands tied behind my back :D, but it was rare that one hooked in seriously. Never had a bite break the skin, when it was to be expected I donned layers of protective cloths, like when I had to force feed Magda.
 
I wear a cheap faux-leather apron in the summer when handling the rabbits with the really nice Kevlar rabbit sleeves on my arms. In the winter I change to a coat. Sometimes I'll have a doe that gets grumpy at me for a few days after she's been bred and I'll use gloves then. The kits have the sharpest claws ever!
 
Whenever I go to rabbit shows I bring wrist guards with me to put on while i hold them and put them up to and take them off of the showing table. Also bring nail clippers
 
I live a life of not so sterile. Since I can trust to the modern tetanus vaccine I no longer worry about metal cuts and scrapes. Whatever the source of the ouch I let it bleed enough to get any germs out from deep then cover it so other dirt can't get in. Later on I will use a bandaid to hold some comfrey salve on it. If it does get infected then some triple antibiotic / neosporin for a couple days. I would rather my natural immune system learn to fight on its own than throw a soup of stuff in it. OMG! folks freak out about Polysorbate 80 and other big words, but don't think twice about fluticasone proprionate.
 
I usually don't do anything but the usual hand wash unless it gets painful and inflamed. Then I put some chlorine dioxide on a bandaid for a dressing. I might add more with an eyedropper later if I can still feel it. That way I don't have to take the bandaid off. Chlorine dioxide, btw, is not "bleach" any more than sodium chloride is bleach. 😏 I had a turkey scratch me yesterday while I was trying to get him untangled from a netting fence--as his friend tried to take advantage of his misfortune and rough him up. That was my big adventure for the week. I did have to use the Cl02 on that, but it stopped feeling infected right away. So, yay!
 
Cindy in SD said:
... Chlorine dioxide, btw, is not "bleach" any more than sodium chloride is bleach. ...
Click to expand...
Just wanted to say Sodium Hypochlorite, NaOCl- is Laundry Bleach, Pool Chlorine, etc. NaCl- Sodium Chloride is Salt (Pennsylvanian, Himalayan, Texan, Sea, or Road). Chlorine Dioxide (aka Chlorine Peroxide) aside from not having sodium in it, does not separate into its constituent ions in water, or hydrolize. It is A bleach, just not laundry bleach (Ammonia and Hydrogen Peroxide, for example, each are also A bleach). Where laundry bleach uses the free Chlorine ion to kill microbes, Chlorine Dioxide is simply itself a biocide. It is used in water treatment as a superior disinfectant because of the lack of hydrolysis and its insolubility at warm temperature.

The human ingestible dosage limit is 1ppm. It evolves out of water at 11C (51F) so it makes a good fogging disinfectant used in duct cleaning. I have refrained from getting on me, but why not use it topically? I am sure there are solutions that are just fine for handling.
1651174881279.png1651174902871.png1651174919098.png are its GHS pictograms (we are going over pictograms in our safety meetings so I thought I would share these.) That fire over circle pictogram is for oxidizers. Oxidizers should be stored away from flammables, special oils and grease. Skull and Crossbones should be self evident and the last one, dissolves metal/dissolves skin means corrosive.

Well, that is another rabbit trail chased down.
 

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