When selling pet bunnies do you make a rabbit care sheet?
I'll see if I can post what I hand out. Always thinking there is room for improvement.
I'll see if I can post what I hand out. Always thinking there is room for improvement.
Do you Make a rabbit care sheet?
- Thread starter ladysown
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Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:
A bunny care sheet is a great idea. So many people just have no idea what bunnies need...
AprilW
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Yes! I hand out a five page care booklet. It covers topics such as housing, feeding, cleaning the cage, grooming, handling, rabbits as a child's pet, owning multiple rabbits, keeping rabbits and other pets, and personal rabbitry services: boarding and returns. The 5th page has a multitude of books and websites that I personally recommend for additional reading. There is also contact information for buyers to (preferably) send me an email with questions.
I also take extra time to educate the buyer in person. I feel it is my duty to ensure the rabbit is going to a good home. Some of the people I've met are clueless when it comes to rabbits, thinking you can toss them into the backyard to fend for themselves.
I also take extra time to educate the buyer in person. I feel it is my duty to ensure the rabbit is going to a good home. Some of the people I've met are clueless when it comes to rabbits, thinking you can toss them into the backyard to fend for themselves.
I've been trying to come up with a simple, short page for the Angoras just in case I happen to stumble over someone who wants to buy one of mine. I thought a short thing would be better so they actually READ it...but perhaps I'm underestimating the public...
I know what you mean, Ann... but I have an idea that might accomodate both the skimmers and the readers.
Put the essential info in a larger, bolder font for quick consumption... and use a regular font for the fine points. Presumably even a skimmer would come back to it if they were encountering a problem.
Put the essential info in a larger, bolder font for quick consumption... and use a regular font for the fine points. Presumably even a skimmer would come back to it if they were encountering a problem.
AprilW
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Since I screen all of my pet buyers, they already know the basics. I do not, under any circumstances, sell to someone who knows nothing about rabbits. Either they are an experienced rabbit owner or have done their "homework", so to say. My care packet is just for future reference, it is not meant to guide them in caring for their rabbit AFTER getting one.
Here's what I put in my flyer:
Bunny Care
These bunnies are used to getting
1.one of the following
a. big handful of grass or
b. big handful of timothy/orchard grass hay or
2.all the pellets they eat (no more than that to prevent waste).
General rule of thumb when raising/caring for rabbits conventionally
Pelleted feed
until they are six months old, all the the pellets they want to eat
at six months, switch them to 1 weighed ounce of feed per pound they should weigh daily. General (not specific) guidelines
For holland lops & mini rex – 3-4 oz
For dwarf rabbits – 2-3 oz,
For meat rabbits – 6-9 oz.
1 cup of greens = 1 oz of pellets
First week give hay and pellets only, if you do different, health warranty is void.
Fresh water
every day, fresh water
These guys are used to crocks AND drip bottles that way you have the convenience of using either method. Drip bottles are easier and require less cleaning.
Grass based hay
orchard or timothy grass
Many will say give daily. When in moult every day a must, otherwise hay at least 2-3 times per week.
Other stuff
not at all necessary, but if giving treats, go for green.
So carrot tops rather than carrots, beet greens not beets.
I have had NO success giving cabbage family plants to my rabbits, recommendation is not to give it. Gives rabbits gas, rabbits don't fart, imagine the difficulties that causes for the rabbit.
They have had: carrots, apples, beet and carrot greens, varieties of lettuce, varying wild grasses including clover, plantain, willow branches and so forth. They prefer GREENS not the apples or the carrots and so forth. Those should be fed in LIMITED quantities if at all.
If giving new foods, GO SLOWLY. Think the size of a quarter. Give that. Next day check for poopy bum, if all good then slowly give more.
Rabbits don't like changes in their diet. The first sign of trouble is either not pooping OR getting loose poops.
If a rabbit stops eating, drinking or pooping, get thee to a vet ASAP.
If a rabbit gets loose poops give them nothing but hay for at least three days. Then gradually reintroduce other foods.
Timothy hay is preferred for the longevity of the rabbit.
For indoor rabbits I heartily recommend using Martins Little Friends Rabbit food. Contains yucca which helps to neutralize the smell of rabbit pee. Also rabbits love this food. It's a bit pricey compared to other brands, but well worth it in the long run. NOTE rabbits LOVE this food.
For outdoor rabbits...feed a good quality rabbit food meant for pet bunnies. TSC sells a good one, as do many feed mills.
Rabbit housing
Basic assumption.. the more room the better. Rabbits are happier and healthier if allowed room to stretch out and binky.
For ideas on rabbit housing see here: http://agilitynut.wordpress.com/2008/01 ... t-housing/
Don't use cedar bedding. They can be toilet trained. Rabbits naturally like to “go” in the same spot. There are numerous resources on-line to assist in this.
Other rabbit basics
REMEMBER THIS; Rabbits are prey animals. That means they think like an animal that is used for food. Sudden movements or weird noises will scare it. If you make it angry it will want to defend itself. It needs to learn to trust you. It needs to always feel safe. A bunny that feels safe is a nice pet bunny. Bunnies that don't feel safe need help to feel safe in order to be a good bunny.
Rabbits do not need the company of other rabbits. They do just fine on their own. They do like to socialize with their people, and sometimes with the family dog or cat (depends a lot on the family dog or cat). DO NOT leave unsupervised with your family cat or dog... remember...they are prey animals and your dog or cat...well they EAT prey animals.
Rabbit kisses are a huge compliment!
They are easy to keep.
Their waste is excellent for the garden should you have one. It can be used as is, it does not have to age.
To understand rabbits this link may be helpful: http://language.rabbitspeak.com/
AT HOME PETS policy.
I make an effort to find good homes for all my rabbits and to be responsible for them.
I have a permanent return policy. No refunds, but I will help you rehome your bunny should that become necessary. No reason necessary. I like knowing my bunnies have good homes.
If your rabbit gets sick or dies within the week AND you have followed my recommendations (hay pellets only) I will replace it with another rabbit of my choosing.
After one week has passed no replacements offered.
Feel free to contact me with any questions.
Feel free to go to my website for help with bunny care. http://www.freewebs.com/athomepets/rabbittalk.htm
__________ Mon Jan 25, 2010 9:54 am __________
AND this is what I emphasize when chatting with them.
1. rabbits are prey animals. they are hardwired to think, My feet are off the ground...this is dangerous for me. Someone is trying to snatch me...dangerous for me. YOUR JOB is to make that rabbit feel safe. A safe rabbit is a friendly rabbit. Calm, quiet, patient and friendly. That's how you make your rabbit feel safe, and therefore friendly.
2. don't lock your bunny up in a cage and forget about it. The boys will feel lonely, the girls won't like you messing with their place. Keep them out and about with you as much as you can.
3. when they are growing up (maturing) they can go through a really stupid stage. Bear with them. Usually lasts about 3 weeks and then they go 'oh, i'm grown up now" and start acting like sweet lovely bunnies again. SOME never go through this, some well...we've all met people who've never quite grown up haven't we?
4. with loppies I say NEVER EVER give these guys cabbage family plants. Gives them gas, rabbits don't fart. This is a problem. So just don't go there.
5. with treats, START SMALL, think the size of a quarter and work your way up.
6. I answer any questions they have.
7. I tell them that I have a permanent return policy. That I'm always happy to take a bunny back for whatever reason. No refunds, price paid just then becomes a bunny rental fee. (folks understand that).
Bunny Care
These bunnies are used to getting
1.one of the following
a. big handful of grass or
b. big handful of timothy/orchard grass hay or
2.all the pellets they eat (no more than that to prevent waste).
General rule of thumb when raising/caring for rabbits conventionally
Pelleted feed
until they are six months old, all the the pellets they want to eat
at six months, switch them to 1 weighed ounce of feed per pound they should weigh daily. General (not specific) guidelines
For holland lops & mini rex – 3-4 oz
For dwarf rabbits – 2-3 oz,
For meat rabbits – 6-9 oz.
1 cup of greens = 1 oz of pellets
First week give hay and pellets only, if you do different, health warranty is void.
Fresh water
every day, fresh water
These guys are used to crocks AND drip bottles that way you have the convenience of using either method. Drip bottles are easier and require less cleaning.
Grass based hay
orchard or timothy grass
Many will say give daily. When in moult every day a must, otherwise hay at least 2-3 times per week.
Other stuff
not at all necessary, but if giving treats, go for green.
So carrot tops rather than carrots, beet greens not beets.
I have had NO success giving cabbage family plants to my rabbits, recommendation is not to give it. Gives rabbits gas, rabbits don't fart, imagine the difficulties that causes for the rabbit.
They have had: carrots, apples, beet and carrot greens, varieties of lettuce, varying wild grasses including clover, plantain, willow branches and so forth. They prefer GREENS not the apples or the carrots and so forth. Those should be fed in LIMITED quantities if at all.
If giving new foods, GO SLOWLY. Think the size of a quarter. Give that. Next day check for poopy bum, if all good then slowly give more.
Rabbits don't like changes in their diet. The first sign of trouble is either not pooping OR getting loose poops.
If a rabbit stops eating, drinking or pooping, get thee to a vet ASAP.
If a rabbit gets loose poops give them nothing but hay for at least three days. Then gradually reintroduce other foods.
Timothy hay is preferred for the longevity of the rabbit.
For indoor rabbits I heartily recommend using Martins Little Friends Rabbit food. Contains yucca which helps to neutralize the smell of rabbit pee. Also rabbits love this food. It's a bit pricey compared to other brands, but well worth it in the long run. NOTE rabbits LOVE this food.
For outdoor rabbits...feed a good quality rabbit food meant for pet bunnies. TSC sells a good one, as do many feed mills.
Rabbit housing
Basic assumption.. the more room the better. Rabbits are happier and healthier if allowed room to stretch out and binky.
For ideas on rabbit housing see here: http://agilitynut.wordpress.com/2008/01 ... t-housing/
Don't use cedar bedding. They can be toilet trained. Rabbits naturally like to “go” in the same spot. There are numerous resources on-line to assist in this.
Other rabbit basics
REMEMBER THIS; Rabbits are prey animals. That means they think like an animal that is used for food. Sudden movements or weird noises will scare it. If you make it angry it will want to defend itself. It needs to learn to trust you. It needs to always feel safe. A bunny that feels safe is a nice pet bunny. Bunnies that don't feel safe need help to feel safe in order to be a good bunny.
Rabbits do not need the company of other rabbits. They do just fine on their own. They do like to socialize with their people, and sometimes with the family dog or cat (depends a lot on the family dog or cat). DO NOT leave unsupervised with your family cat or dog... remember...they are prey animals and your dog or cat...well they EAT prey animals.
Rabbit kisses are a huge compliment!
They are easy to keep.
Their waste is excellent for the garden should you have one. It can be used as is, it does not have to age.
To understand rabbits this link may be helpful: http://language.rabbitspeak.com/
AT HOME PETS policy.
I make an effort to find good homes for all my rabbits and to be responsible for them.
I have a permanent return policy. No refunds, but I will help you rehome your bunny should that become necessary. No reason necessary. I like knowing my bunnies have good homes.
If your rabbit gets sick or dies within the week AND you have followed my recommendations (hay pellets only) I will replace it with another rabbit of my choosing.
After one week has passed no replacements offered.
Feel free to contact me with any questions.
Feel free to go to my website for help with bunny care. http://www.freewebs.com/athomepets/rabbittalk.htm
__________ Mon Jan 25, 2010 9:54 am __________
AND this is what I emphasize when chatting with them.
1. rabbits are prey animals. they are hardwired to think, My feet are off the ground...this is dangerous for me. Someone is trying to snatch me...dangerous for me. YOUR JOB is to make that rabbit feel safe. A safe rabbit is a friendly rabbit. Calm, quiet, patient and friendly. That's how you make your rabbit feel safe, and therefore friendly.
2. don't lock your bunny up in a cage and forget about it. The boys will feel lonely, the girls won't like you messing with their place. Keep them out and about with you as much as you can.
3. when they are growing up (maturing) they can go through a really stupid stage. Bear with them. Usually lasts about 3 weeks and then they go 'oh, i'm grown up now" and start acting like sweet lovely bunnies again. SOME never go through this, some well...we've all met people who've never quite grown up haven't we?
4. with loppies I say NEVER EVER give these guys cabbage family plants. Gives them gas, rabbits don't fart. This is a problem. So just don't go there.
5. with treats, START SMALL, think the size of a quarter and work your way up.
6. I answer any questions they have.
7. I tell them that I have a permanent return policy. That I'm always happy to take a bunny back for whatever reason. No refunds, price paid just then becomes a bunny rental fee. (folks understand that).
DevonW
Well-known member
That's a great fact sheet. I'm going to point out that rabbits do fart, they just cannot burp, if they didn't they'd explode 0_o
I'm working on a care sheet because I have such a bad time with people wanting to buy fluffy bunnies with no knowledge what so ever about them.
I'm working on a care sheet because I have such a bad time with people wanting to buy fluffy bunnies with no knowledge what so ever about them.
I've been told by several people and seen it on several websites that rabbits can't fart.
they can? cool! Wow....misinformation that floats around.
But oh...now I've lost the fun factor of telling people not to do cabbage because they can't fart... which gets little boys laughing AND understanding why it's important.
they can? cool! Wow....misinformation that floats around.
But oh...now I've lost the fun factor of telling people not to do cabbage because they can't fart... which gets little boys laughing AND understanding why it's important.
ottersatin
Well-known member
DevonW,
you are RIGHT!If you are ever sitting watching your rabbits
and you get the distinct smell of Carrots!
That's a BUNNY FART! Heh Heh.
Dennis, C.V.R.
you are RIGHT!If you are ever sitting watching your rabbits
and you get the distinct smell of Carrots!
That's a BUNNY FART! Heh Heh.
Dennis, C.V.R.
hoodat
Well-known member
Rabbits also can't vomit.So far as I know pigs are the only other animal that shares this disability. That's why rabbits can't spit up hairballs like a cat or dog. They need fiber to move it on through.
Rats can't vomit either. Thank goodness.
Horses either, as far as I know.
BlueCamasRabbitry
Well-known member
Yup! I type up a 1/2 page sheet and it covers the basics, and also has all of my contact information at the bottom of the page. I try and hand it out with pets and even show bunnies if it's the person's first rabbit, but sometimes I forget. If they've had rabbits before, then I don't hand out a sheet. I'll just give them the basic instructions on the care that rabbit was receiving in my rabbitry.
I also have started to print out my Sales Policy and have them sign it. I keep the signed portion and they keep the rest. That way they have a hard-copy of the policies and I have the slip that proves they understand it.
Emily
I also have started to print out my Sales Policy and have them sign it. I keep the signed portion and they keep the rest. That way they have a hard-copy of the policies and I have the slip that proves they understand it.
Emily
dark.lapin
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does anyone have good exsample of rabbit care sheet? I plan on selling my rabbits next year ...I plan on selling em to members of my ffa charter..I am very nervous about selling em there because of way harvey was treated.
cavy can't barf either...maybe only carnivores can vomit?
cavy can't barf either...maybe only carnivores can vomit?
Most grazing herbivores can't vomit because the valve to the stomach is stronger than in omnivores/carnivores and pressure in the stomach closes the valve off further making the stomach rupture before the valve gives and allows things to go backward. Horses, rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas... if any of those vomit you have an extremely serious situation which will probably result in the animal's death. Goats, cows and animals that chew cud can bring up the cud from their rumen to spit out if they eat something poisonous but they don't vomit and completely empty their stomach like humans, cats, dogs, and other omnivorous and carnivorous animals.
SterlingSatin
Well-known member
i took 6 pages from the 4-H handbook of rabbit care (the ohio one that we are now using to study for competitions). its got good info on it.
BlueCamasRabbitry
Well-known member
I completely rewrote my care sheet and now it's about 2 or so pages. Geared toward 4-Hers & pet buyers, though the title is 4-H Care Sheet, so I have to change that. lol.
I thought 2 or 3 pages was long, but I guess if you guys can get away with handing out 5+ pages it must mean they actually read it, right? I was worried about putting TOO much information in mine and it not being read, or everything being looked at... I think I'll end up editing it again and adding some more things perhaps.
Emily
I thought 2 or 3 pages was long, but I guess if you guys can get away with handing out 5+ pages it must mean they actually read it, right? I was worried about putting TOO much information in mine and it not being read, or everything being looked at... I think I'll end up editing it again and adding some more things perhaps.
Emily
BlueCamasRabbitry":2skj05bj said:
A few tips on readability. We all know how lazy people can be, so make it easy for them.
Put the main point in bold face type... the details in regular type.
Use short paragraphs and clear, concise sentences. People can absorb a lot more information if it is fed to them in small bites, easily chewed.
If you include rabbit jargon, add a short glossary at the end. Don't leave them guessing. Most of the people needing a care sheet may be unsure of terminology too.
Mine is a very simple front/back printed flyer.
I listed resources (mostly referring to my website).
I list what the rabbits get on a daily/weekly basis.
I list basic care requirements.
and what my return/health policy is. Differs for age of rabbit.
I listed resources (mostly referring to my website).
I list what the rabbits get on a daily/weekly basis.
I list basic care requirements.
and what my return/health policy is. Differs for age of rabbit.
