Do smaller litter size = quicker grow to butchering size?

[dayna]

I just weighed my two youngest litters.

Same buck was the sire, does weigh the same amount roughly (8 pounds and 8.2 pounds).

Litter number 1 is 14 days old. 4 kits. 25.6 ounce total weight or 6.5 ounces each.

Litter number 2 is 13 days old. 2 kits. 20.8 ounce total weight or 10.4 ounces each.

So which litter is most likely to reach butchering weight fastest? Should I be breeding for smaller or larger litter size?

It seems that my large litters, the kits are always so small and do not reach 5 pounds by 12 weeks. I've actually never butchered a 5 pound rabbit. All the ones I butcher weigh 4 pounds or less. Which is fine, but it would be nice to have a larger one every now and again.

How long should I keep data for to decide where to go with breeding? What sorts of data should I keep? Weights of parents, kits at certain ages, number of kits in a litter, mortality rate, feed per day, etc?

If I did that for say 6 months, could I post all the info here and maybe get some advice from some of you more seasoned meat growers on who to keep/cull/try something else/etc?

 

[Northwinds Rabbitry]

I don't breed meat rabbits but it's the same with my litters I have one litter of 6 and one of 3 and they are both the same size and a few weeks apart I think the smaller litter there are less so they get more milk etc and then they grow faster??(that's my best guess lol)

 

[TMTex]

I'm a meat breeder, but likely with less experience than you. I'm interested in what you find since one of my does has thrown litters of 4 twice now. My other does are 5 and 7 typically.

Maybe I should start weighing them?

 

[MaggieJ]

Yes, smaller litters tend to grow faster because they get more milk - always provided both does produce approximately the same amount of milk. This early fast growth is sometimes minimized once they are weaned, since most fryers are free fed. But an early good start never hurts. I personally prefer litters of no more than six for this reason. I once had a doe that produced 10-12 kits regularly, but they always took much longer to grow out.

 

[dayna]

Well I'm going to keep track of litter sizes. Maybe 3-6 is better than 8-12.

 

[Zass]

One of my SF does produces only 6 kits/litter (so far)
my mutts always have 9-11. The mutt kits always grow faster that any others.

Genetics and milk supply might be a bigger factor than litter size.

 

[MaggieJ]

You must have some super meat mutts, Zass!

Certainly genetics play a big role. You have to compare apples to apples to get an accurate picture, I think. Milk supply is also a huge factor and when X amount of milk is divided among 4-6 instead of among 8-12, the kits are bound to grow faster.

 

[Zass]

You must have some super meat mutts, Zass!

I'm thinking I must. 1/4 Flemish, 1/4 New Zealand, 1/2 Lilac, of all things.

Shaped like meat bricks, produce lovely colors, sweet as a anything.
You have to keep outcrossing to maintain the hybrid vigor though, right? They are being crossed with SF right now with great results.

ancake:

 

[Southbound_SF]

I think if you're breeding for meat you would want to focus on larger litter size AND faster growth. Which one first? Not sure. Probably whichever presents itself in your genetic lottery first. But neither 3-6 kits per litter nor 4 lbs at 12 weeks sound satisfactory to me. Not to say it's not a fine starting point! Sure, you could select for smaller litters & get faster growth, but if you get 3 kits @ 5 lbs vs. 9 kits @ 4.5 lbs...I think it's clear which would get you more food. And both of those would be an improvement on your current situation. Aim high - go for both!

SB<br /><br />__________ Thu Oct 24, 2013 8:00 pm __________<br /><br />Oh, also, if you've got the patience: keep ALL the data, ALL the time. Then make lovely spreadsheets with all sorts of comparative calculations and share them all with us here...yesss...

 

[GBov]

If you have two does that usually have litters of 11 you could breed them both - and a foster doe - and, when kindled, take 5 away from one of them.

You could then compare apples to apples to see how they grow out.

 

[dayna]

GBov, what a fabulous idea!

 

[GBov]

GBov, what a fabulous idea!

Why, thank you!

Not everyone could do it as it would take three does, bred at the same time, two that have large litters and one that has small to foster half the large litter onto.

Or someone who culls newborn kits for pet food would only need two does.

 

[karenm99]

I'm absolutely not a rabbit expert, but I know with humans the more you feed, the more milk you produce. I'd think that with proper nutrition the same would apply for any nursing animal. But then again I could be completely wrong.

 

[caroline]

I have does that regularly produce 10+ kits. Their kits don't grow as fast initially but the total kit weight @ weaning is MUCH higher than the total kit weight of a doe with only 6 kits. Thus, in the end I have more rabbit from a doe with larger litters and that is multiplied by breeding for about 6 litter/year.

If my doe with 10 kits has 25lbs. of kit @ 6 weeks and my doe with 6 kits has 18lbs. of kit @ 6 weeks and they both have 6 litter/year I have 150lbs/year of kit @ weaning from the 10 kit doe and only 108lbs/year of kit from the 6 kit doe.

I always prefer the larger litter and since I try to breed 7+ does every 2 weeks I usually have a doe or 2 with smaller litters in case I get a really big litter of 13-15 and want to foster a few to a doe with only 4-7 kits. Most of my does raise 8-12 kits each breeding.

I learned about stinging nettle for increased milk production and my does with 8+ kits get a stalk every day for about 3 weeks and they all produce well. I don't give it to the does with smaller litters and they seem to have plenty of milk for their kits.

 

[bobqdevon]

We had 2 litters, one born 9/10 the other 9/11. the first had 8 and lost 4, the other had 7 and lost 0. The buns from the litter of 4 are noticeably larger and heavier than the litter of 7. JMO.