Creme D'argent x Chocolate Otter Satin cross

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Hello all, I joined to post about this litter. I see some other members have some similar crosses. I think most of them are headed for freezer camp. There are five silvered chestnuts that came from a creme d'argent doe with a chocolate otter satin buck as the sire. There is also one kit that was born yesterday to a red satin dam and a creme d'argent buck. Looks to be fawn/orange. I don't have pictures yet.

I don't think they fit St. Huberts COD because they have a white tail and some white underbelly markings as well. They also carry Otter genetics which isn't good.

The main reason I crossed out the d'argent was that they would not breed together. I have tried them together multiple times but I guess she doesn't like him.

Here are some photos of the chestnuts at 8weeks. The one in the center seems to have two copies of Si3, or some other subtle color difference.
cfc2ebfd-bc83-4dcb-8837-d26349b7cbec.jpg
e4b239e4-9131-496b-a39a-5dd8c273f1ef.jpg


35e4c63c-97dc-4e7e-942c-25a48f63d0ed.jpg
In the last photo, you can almost see the gray spots. They all have the same gray spots around the eyes and just above their back legs.

If there is interest in these guys I can post more photos. I am excited to see their coats change as they grow, though I'm not sure if they will make it into the breeding program.
 
Right now, we think the middle one is a doe. If she does carry a more intense silvering she could go to our creme d'argent buck in October or November.

Depending on the color of the red satin x d'argent cross, we could breed it one of the chestnuts or back to one of the argents.

But the one born yesterday will not be ready to breed until December or later.
 
Thanks so much for posting this! I've been meaning to post something about the Argente St Huberts I'm working on, too! They were originally going to be step toward making Creme D'Argentes with better type, but I like them so much I think I'm going to stick with the St Huberts! :ROFLMAO:

There is also one kit that was born yesterday to a red satin dam and a creme d'argent buck. Looks to be fawn/orange. I don't have pictures yet.
I'd love to see pictures of the red Satin x Creme bunny when you get some. You can be fairly sure that it's an orange; both the red Satin and the Creme are orange genetically <A_??C_D_ee>. The bunny should not be a fawn (by this I mean dilute orange) unless there were ancestors with dilute color in their both of their backgrounds, and they both carry <d>.

I don't think they fit St. Huberts COD because they have a white tail and some white underbelly markings as well. They also carry Otter genetics which isn't good.
I agree that carrying otter isn't ideal for St Huberts, but the belly and tail color look fine to me. The Argente St Hubert working standard calls for surface color on the belly and underside of the tail to be "creamy white," so I think your bunnies are okay in that regard. They're basically supposed to be chestnuts (or an agouti of another base color ), which usually have a white undertail. The DQ is for white undercolor on the belly.

Here's a link to the working standard:
https://arba.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/ArgentStHubert.pdf

Below are some photos of our St Huberts that caused some excitement a show recently, and got great comments from the judges. They're just 10 weeks old, so the silvering is still developing on their faces, but they're coming along beautifully. They're out of a purebred Champagne doe x purebred NZ red buck. I used a Champagne that is too heavily silvered for the ARBA standard in hopes that the bunnies, who would get only one copy of <si>, would silver enough to look good. Happily, that seems to be what's happening. You can see that the surface color on belly and under the tail are white, but the belly undercolor is slate, like a chestnut should be:
IRE2 St Hubert.JPGArgente St Hubert ring color IRE2.JPG Argente St Hubert ring color IRE2 c.JPG Argente St Hubert chestnut belly color.JPG

IRE1 St Hubert side 5-26-24.JPG Argente St Hubert ring color IRE1.JPG
The first four photos are of the doe, who has the better silvering in my opinion. She looks a bit flat in this photo, but is not really - we're still working on posing training. :LOL: The last two are of the buck, who has lighter silvering, but better type, as the doe is just slightly hollow over her loin at the moment. According to the working standard, the amount of silvering is not as important as the evenness of silvering, and I'm happy with this first generation in that regard. The ring color is worth twice as many points (10) as the silvering (5), so I am also pleased with the nice agouti banding in these bunnies. Because I used a red, eventually I probably am going to start seeing wideband effects on the width of the middle ring as I interbreed these down the road, which will not be ideal... but it's a work in progress.

Here are some photos of the chestnuts at 8weeks. The one in the center seems to have two copies of Si3, or some other subtle color difference.
Unless your chocolate otter buck has argente in his background, your doe bunny couldn't get two copies of <si>; she'd get one from her dam, but the buck shouldn't have one to give. I'd suspect that she inherited some modifiers that the buck bunnies didn't get.

Having raised purebred Champagnes for a couple of years, I can tell you that there can be a lot variation in the amount of silvering across individuals even from the same litter. (I'm actually finding that there is a lot of variation in nearly all traits in these Champagnes - it's very different from my Satins, which I've been breeding for so long that they're really consistent, and I know what to expect from each matrilineal line.) But the <si> in my Champagnes is definitely dominant, as every kit from both my Satin x Champagne crosses, and this NZR x Champagne cross, has been silvered. Here's one of the Champagne x black Satin crosses; in this photo he is 12 weeks, so he's even more silvered now:
Hot Cross Bun 6-27-23.JPG
The thing I notice about all of these half-argentes is that the silvering tends to be a bit lighter on the face and ears, some of which is a fault. (You can see in the photo above what I mean.) In Champagnes, the head, ears and feet are to be exactly the same color as the body (except the nose butterfly), but the Argente St Hubert standard is confusing about the coloring of ears and feet. In the Color section it says, "Head, ears and legs are to match body color as close as possible," while in the Surface Color subsection it says, "There should be an even amount of frosting or silvering on the body, with a slightly darker muzzle, ears and feet.)

Anyway, thanks for the post and I'd love to see how your bunnies develop!
 
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I got excited reading this thread. I've got some Champagne mixes too. I have a Champagne/Silver Fox and his head is lower on the silvering too. He's 3 months old and and I haven't really posed him before so he looks a little goofy in the picture. I've also got some meat mutt/Champagne that look similar to the chestnuts. My Champagne/NZR came out looking different than I expected, I'm looking forward to seeing what they look like when they grow up.
 

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Thanks so much for posting this! I've been meaning to post something about the Argente St Huberts I'm working on, too! They were originally going to be step toward making Creme D'Argentes with better type, but I like them so much I think I'm going to stick with the St Huberts!
We tried a few times to breed our creme d'argent pair but nothing ever came of it. Not a haystache, not a fur pull, NOTHIN'!

So I bred her to our really nice chocolate otter. I figured at the worst they could be sold or butchered. He has 3 legs from showing at ASRBA shows. I want to take him to more shows.

The creme doe has a litter due this week. She was bred back a lot quicker than we usually do, but she weighed the right amount and the kits had been eating pellets since week 3.
I agree that carrying otter isn't ideal for St Huberts, but the belly and tail color look fine to me. .....
The otter is recessive to Agouti from my understanding. So I don't want to add anymore and I should expect some otters from line breeding.

We want to work on chocolate based red satins. I know it's not solving the problem of smut, but I'm not sure I understand the Rufus factor.

The creme d'argent as well as her babies seem to be red everwhere that the Red Satins get smutty. This is the reason I bred the Creme D'argent buck to a Red Satin. Also to prove him, I thought he was sterile until recently.

These chestnuts
( Aa(t) Bb CC DD Ee si_ )
x
This red
( AA BB CC DD ee si_)



(My phone won't add pictures, I will try later)
 
Do you only have one creme d'argent Buck? There's multiple things that could be making him infertile, ranging from the heat to simply only having one testicle
 
Do you only have one creme d'argent Buck? There's multiple things that could be making him infertile, ranging from the heat to simply only having one testicle
I suspected a split penis but I haven't checked. He has a litter of one under his belt now, but the mom came from a litter of 9.

I did try him again to the creme d'argent doe, and she pulled fur today. (day 26)

He is our only creme buck, I will have to check for both testicles. It hasn't been hot here, yet.

Could be that we were just lacking on timing. Hopefully we have a litter of Full Creme d'argent later this week.
 
The otter is recessive to Agouti from my understanding. So I don't want to add anymore and I should expect some otters from line breeding.

We want to work on chocolate based red satins. I know it's not solving the problem of smut, but I'm not sure I understand the Rufus factor.
Yes, otter is recessive to agouti and you will probably get otters down the road. You will also probably get satinized Cremes and St Huberts for the same reason - satin fur comes from a recessive allele. I'm expecting to deal with that as well from my Satin x Champagne crosses, but I decided it was worth it since my Satins have a lot to offer my Champagnes in terms of type and temperament. Plus, personally, I think ALL colors look better in satin! :ROFLMAO:

As far as I can tell, rufus factors "add up" over generations. At least that's how it seems to work in my reds, and has held true for both Satins and Mini Rex. In every generation, there is more intense red (due to rufus factors) and less smut (due to selection on other modifiers) as long as I use the cleanest-colored rabbits for each successive generation of breeders. Chocolate can reduce the appearance of smut, but I've found that the red doesn't ever get quite as intense, and they tend to have paler eyelids and lashes. And I love the intensely red, dark-lashed doe-eyed black-based reds...to me, they're they're worth the wait! :)
The creme d'argent as well as her babies seem to be red everwhere that the Red Satins get smutty. This is the reason I bred the Creme D'argent buck to a Red Satin. Also to prove him, I thought he was sterile until recently.
A correct Creme should be an orange, not a red; they are the same genetically as far as the major loci <A_??C_D_ee but good red Satins have lots more rufus modifiers. (Again, I'm not sure what rufus modifiers are, exactly - I haven't ever found much that's super helpful written about it but maybe someone on here will have a reference.) Perhaps the Cremes have just been bred orange-to-orange for so long that the smut has been bred out of them? I know a lot of red Satin lines have other colors crossed in intermittently to improve texture and/or type, but then it's a bit of an uphill climb to recover a clear red. The kit looks like a nice clean orange; I'd love to see the results of the cross when the bunny gets older. Maybe there's something about <si> that affects the action of non-extension alleles...?

There are some Cremes up here that are more red than orange, and they get faulted for color. That's actually something I think I am going to have to watch out for in the St Huberts, since I started with a very deep dark red NZ buck. Crossing him with a self black (Champagne) toned the coloring down nicely, but eventually the orange intermediate ring may tend to darken, as well as to widen due to the wideband allele every kit now carries courtesy of the NZR.
 
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What do we think of these ears?
They have plenty of water, I don't see any extra earwax or mite evidence.
They don't always curl the tips but there are two out of five that have a really pronounced curl.20240531_012211.jpg20240531_012222.jpg
 
Oooh, the cuteness of that face!!! :giggle:
39359-509d269a360778f9022c91292063c7c0.jpg
What do we think of these ears?
They have plenty of water, I don't see any extra earwax or mite evidence.
They don't always curl the tips but there are two out of five that have a really pronounced curl.
Sometimes bunnies growing up in very warm weather have their ears kind of outgrow them for a while. They might tip over at the top like your bunnies, other times they flop down whole like a wanna-be-lop, and it seems to come and go from day to day. When that has happened in my barn, it has always corrected itself eventually.
Here's Fergus at 10 weeks:
Fergus summer ears crop 6-27-23.jpg
and here he is at 5 months:
Fergus.JPG

However... ears lopping over at the tip like that can be a sign of Vitamin E deficiency. That deficiency is almost always accompanied by other symptoms, most of which are reproductive, and so not evident in the bunnies. But it might be worth it to add some BOSS and/or wheat germ oil to the bunnies' diet for a while to make sure that's not an issue. It's probably not too huge a deficit if only some of the bunnies are showing the signs, and adding BOSS isn't going to hurt them if they do not have a deficiency. I am dealing with this problem right now, and among the myriad reproductive failures I've been seeing, I have two bucks that I think are permanently stunted and will never make senior weight (but at least they're not sterile). But BOSS turned my rabbits right around and I'm back to charting normal reproductive behavior in my barn.
 
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