I have 3 doe 1 buck doe #1 & 2 have had 1 litter each and doe #3 has never took i have visually saw doe #3 get breed 4 diff times.i have left them in for 2-3 mating (time 30 min). I have left them in for days together and nothing. i bought these rabbits in oct fully grown age bewteen 2-3 yrs .over the winter they wouldt take i tried boss apple cider.march they starting taking again but no babies.i just rebreed them this week all very willing with the buck he covers them repeatedly.doe #3 seems very eager to breed but has never took.doe # 1 & 2 had little in nov.what can i do im bout to start over i called the local vet they want 67$ per 2 rabbits to chehk them out but honestly they acted like there wasnt much they could do to help with fertility issue.i think the buck isnt the problem he is a try hard even when the doe wouldnt lift this winter he just going and going.please help first time with rabbits very frustrating.i have them in wire cages 30 ×36 feed pellet 18% rowe feed all the hay they want clean water.ive tried to palpate with no results. Thanks to evryone website is very helpful.
champenge d argents wont take
- Thread starter champange
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At that age, there is a good chance the does have fat buildup around their organs which can interfere with conception.
Anyway to reduce calories and increase exercise for a while?
Anyway to reduce calories and increase exercise for a while?
I second Zass' opinion.
Having champs myself, one thing I can tell you is that they build fat VERY quickly (or at least I know my lines do, and most other champs I see around here are little chunkers too) I had my first doe get over weight with her first litter at six months, and it took a strict diet and 3 more litters for her to get back to normal. I could barely get her bred, and if I did, she lost the litters because of the low conception rate and high birth weights. The kits got stuck and died. I kept a daughter of hers from her first litter, and even on a strict diet she got overweight. Her first breeding was at six months too, and she had six healthy kits, but I couldn't get her to breed back until her kits were almost eight weeks old. She palpitated positive, but we'll see if she has any success due to weight.
All I can say is that if your attatched to these rabbits, try putting them on a strict diet, maybe lower the protein intake to 16%. Mine are on 17, but that's because it's the only option for organic feed around here, and organic is important to me. Also, although I don't like to breed heavily, I find my older doe keeps weight down better if she's re-bred two to three weeks after kindling. I'll be implementing this with any future champ does. She holds condition well, and it's more meat for my freezer, so I guess it's not all bad besides finding room to grow out all the little fluff balls.
If you plan on getting new champ stock to start over with, get fast maturing lines that you'll be able to breed sooner (my doe that's now back in condition throws kits that reach 4.5-5# at 8 weeks, pretty awesome for a heritage breed), start them young, and keep them breeding. At least it's what's working for me right now.
Having champs myself, one thing I can tell you is that they build fat VERY quickly (or at least I know my lines do, and most other champs I see around here are little chunkers too) I had my first doe get over weight with her first litter at six months, and it took a strict diet and 3 more litters for her to get back to normal. I could barely get her bred, and if I did, she lost the litters because of the low conception rate and high birth weights. The kits got stuck and died. I kept a daughter of hers from her first litter, and even on a strict diet she got overweight. Her first breeding was at six months too, and she had six healthy kits, but I couldn't get her to breed back until her kits were almost eight weeks old. She palpitated positive, but we'll see if she has any success due to weight.
All I can say is that if your attatched to these rabbits, try putting them on a strict diet, maybe lower the protein intake to 16%. Mine are on 17, but that's because it's the only option for organic feed around here, and organic is important to me. Also, although I don't like to breed heavily, I find my older doe keeps weight down better if she's re-bred two to three weeks after kindling. I'll be implementing this with any future champ does. She holds condition well, and it's more meat for my freezer, so I guess it's not all bad besides finding room to grow out all the little fluff balls.
If you plan on getting new champ stock to start over with, get fast maturing lines that you'll be able to breed sooner (my doe that's now back in condition throws kits that reach 4.5-5# at 8 weeks, pretty awesome for a heritage breed), start them young, and keep them breeding. At least it's what's working for me right now.
I have tried lowering there weight and that did help.not attached to these rabbits at all.i just wanted to give them a chance and make sure it was not something i was doing.i really dont like red eye rabbits but im gonna get nzw i live near dayton ohio if anyone on here has any for sale let me no.
