cage tip from a "pro"

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owlsfriend

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while web-surfing the other day, I was looking at some alternative cage solutions, and this was pure genius! If you are making hanging cages, you can put floor wire on the ceiling also and flip the whole cage if the bottom starts to rust!!!!

This is so smart, because if you buy rolls of wire, there's always more floor wire left than wall/roof wire. Also, if you make removable baby-saver panels, you can shift them after the flip.

I learn something new every day.
 
owlsfriend":s6ro41fx said:
while web-surfing the other day, I was looking at some alternative cage solutions, and this was pure genius! If you are making hanging cages, you can put floor wire on the ceiling also and flip the whole cage if the bottom starts to rust!!!!

This is so smart, because if you buy rolls of wire, there's always more floor wire left than wall/roof wire. Also, if you make removable baby-saver panels, you can shift them after the flip.

I learn something new every day.

What an interesting thought!
 
well, currently, I have nothing BUT floor wire-and no way to get the wall wire- so guess what---

I do like the added security of the floor wire spacing all around--
 
owlsfriend":3mpbb3fp said:
If you are making hanging cages, you can put floor wire on the ceiling also and flip the whole cage if the bottom starts to rust!!!!

This is so smart, because if you buy rolls of wire, there's always more floor wire left than wall/roof wire.

Hmmm... and here I thought having leftover floor wire was just another reason to build more cages. :mrgreen:
 
flipping the cages has been around for a lot of years.

drawbacks: Baby-saver wire is useless after the flip. You have to make panels and install them.

Doors will have to be switched as well. Feeder holes...ditto. waterlines....ditto. Plus the structural integrity of the cage will be compromised. With baby saver wire, the lower part of the cage is stronger than regular 1 X 2 wire.

Lots of work.

grumpy
 
Another idea I heard is to make the cage 2' tall and then when the floor wire wears out, cut it off and put new floor wire. It only takes 2" away from the height each time.
 
OneAcreFarm":3ntybbs7 said:
Another idea I heard is to make the cage 2' tall and then when the floor wire wears out, cut it off and put new floor wire. It only takes 2" away from the height each time.
Yes, I remember hearing this one!
 
Clean them, dismount and scrub them down during the summer, then use a HIGH QUALITY GLOSS ENAMEL (don't use house paint)
I hit them up with rust converter (where needed), prime them, then paint then bottoms

If you have invested in the right tools, you shouldn't have to cut down the cage, just clip the floor at the clips, used 'O' pliers (or a thin pair of needle noses or a J-clip puller) to pop the old J-clips and put a new bottom on.

I have a pressure washer, and a air compressor and spray gun. Compared to the cost and time of new cages or refurbing an old one, it's not that much work.
 
I bought some rusty cages last summer...took a few days but I scraped all the rust off, primed and painted them. They look a little funky but they feel sound and sturdy. Doesn't have to be pretty, just has to be safe for my rabbits!!! ;)
 
Kyle@theHeathertoft":3bwqatuu said:
I bought some rusty cages last summer...took a few days but I scraped all the rust off, primed and painted them. They look a little funky but they feel sound and sturdy. Doesn't have to be pretty, just has to be safe for my rabbits!!! ;)

What kind of paint did you use? I have some cages that need rehabbing. I am probably going to use them for baby chicks, but I think they would be great for letting the rabbits on the lawn after the chicks are transitioned to the big coop.
 
Jack":31bu6i6g said:
Clean them, dismount and scrub them down during the summer, then use a HIGH QUALITY GLOSS ENAMEL (don't use house paint)
I hit them up with rust converter (where needed), prime them, then paint then bottoms

If you have invested in the right tools, you shouldn't have to cut down the cage, just clip the floor at the clips, used 'O' pliers (or a thin pair of needle noses or a J-clip puller) to pop the old J-clips and put a new bottom on.

I have a pressure washer, and a air compressor and spray gun. Compared to the cost and time of new cages or refurbing an old one, it's not that much work.

I agree completely!

Use double galvanized wire, keep a wire brush handy and clean off feces, hair, and calcium in the "waste" corner every few weeks, once a year remove the rabbits and completely clean the cage. If you have any rust developing use the self sealing rust treatment that turns the rust black. Paint the floor and 3 or 4 inches of the sides at the bottom with a good quality (oil based) enamel, when you first build the cage and every few years there after What works even better is ti use a 2-part epoxy primer. It is hard and doesn't wear near as fast as paint, and protects the galvanizing.

14 gauge floor wire makes things even better. It does not flex as much, keeps the floors level, and the paint won't come off as easily.

If you look at some of my rabbit pictures, one of the cages you will see is now about 40 years old. Cages are just too expensive to replace all the time, and are getting more expensive each year.
 
coffeenutdesigns":3940ndis said:
Kyle@theHeathertoft":3940ndis said:
I bought some rusty cages last summer...took a few days but I scraped all the rust off, primed and painted them. They look a little funky but they feel sound and sturdy. Doesn't have to be pretty, just has to be safe for my rabbits!!! ;)

What kind of paint did you use? I have some cages that need rehabbing. I am probably going to use them for baby chicks, but I think they would be great for letting the rabbits on the lawn after the chicks are transitioned to the big coop.

I think I used rustoleum. :) Even after they were dry from the paint I let them sit outside to "cure" and to let all the fumes dissipate for a few days, and I scrubbed them down before I put rabbits in them, though.
 
Thanks, I picked some up today. That will be my Friday project, to get one of those cages all cleaned up, painted and add some more j-clips. It will be weeks before I need to use it, so plenty of time to cure. I was thinking of cold galvanizing spray, but I will see how this works first. It's a little cheaper.
 
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