cage set up

[starshotbandit]

Ok, I have a friend who wants me to build her some cages. The space is 8ft by 8ft. She would rather not have stacking cages and she needs about6 in there. 2 for bucks, 1 for a growout and 3 doe pens. What to do, waht to do?? Im not seing a good way to do it without stacking. She has New Zelands. :?:

 

[Kyle@theWintertime]

I don't think you can get all that in eight feet without stacking. Sorry.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

8' x 8' floor plan?

Line opposite walls with 2 24" x 36" cages for does/growouts and one 24" x 24" for the buck(s). This will leave a 4' aisle. If the cages are made 30" deep, you would have a 3' aisle.

 

[Big Tom]

If your cages are top opening you can also use the 4 feet that will be left at the back wall for cages as well.

 

[Secuono]

Two walls of 8ft long cages, divide into two or three. Other wall do the same. You can squeeze in a 4ft cage on the far wall as well.

 

[Kyle@theWintertime]

LOL so I totally didn't think about two rows.

 

[starshotbandit]

do you think 24X30 is ok for the bucks. making them top opening means she has the face for feeders I kinda like that, its good for agresive does! and I can make nice big doors for liftin them out! no mor stuck paws and claws!<br /><br />__________ Sat May 25, 2013 9:09 pm __________<br /><br />is 24X36 good for does with babbies?

 

[AnnClaire]

Most breeds will do well with a buck in a 24x24 and the 24x30 for the does as long as kits are weaned about 4 weeks. A longer cage would be better for weaning kits at 6-8 weeks, but after 4 weeks, the kits can be moved to another cage when not nursing to give the doe some me-time ... it will also help socialize the kits For larger meat breeds, a larger cage would be needed for both does and bucks.

 

[starshotbandit]

Well got to talk to her today< when I droped off a bunny I got at the show yesterday and some roosters that I got from a friend. Shes Ok with cages 2 high, found out that she thought I was talking about building a frame and having trays. Yah, no Im not that good. not untill I get a bending table. So we talked about sloping boards and using rain gutters, auto waterers and poo tubs. Now I have a lot more room to work with! still need to keep the caust down.

 

[grumpy]

An 8X8 building is measured on the outside. The inside will be 8" less. That's a minimum if they used 2X4 studs and 1/2 exterior sheeting. If you put up inside sheeting to cover the walls...take off another inch. You're down to 87" inside dimensions.

You'll need space between the back of the cage and the wall. You can use 3/4" stock as ledger to hang the cages. Now you're down to 85 1/2". 30" deep cages on both sides leaves you a 25 1/2" aisle. Outside feeders take another 7" off the measurement = 18 1/2" aisle. That's a bit narrow.

grumpy

 

[Miss M]

Shes Ok with cages 2 high, found out that she thought I was talking about building a frame and having trays. Yah, no Im not that good. not untill I get a bending table. So we talked about sloping boards and using rain gutters, auto waterers and poo tubs. Now I have a lot more room to work with! still need to keep the caust down.

I used to have the chute/gutter/bucket setup in a 6'x12' structure. I had 7 cages. 4 - 24" x 36" (buck and does), 2 - 24" x 30" (growout) and 1 - 24" x 24" (for our minilop pet and mascot and original herd sire in retirement).

With two levels, you could put the cages on two intersecting walls.

I recommend non-corrugated, non-metal material for the chutes and gutters. We started with corrugated tin, and replaced it with coroplast. You could use plywood covered in visqueen, like a couple of members, or you could cover it with linoleum. Give it a generous overlap under the board. Any fastening needs to be caulked with silicone.

With the price of plywood these days, you may find that coroplast isn't much different. It does have holes in the edges, as it is made like corrugated cardboard.

We had a 4" drop from back to front. Bunny berries don't roll very well, despite being round, so you will need to sweep or squeegee them from the chutes and gutters.

Daily cleaning, and weekly rinsing, should help keep smells down. Peat moss in the buckets will help kill the urine smells in there. If you empty them daily, though, some water in the bottom should be sufficient.

It isn't the easiest system, but in my opinion, it's a far sight easier than pans.