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250 does O.o Yeah, any issue with cooling or water could cause a disaster.

Good tips for vulnerable areas. Climate sure makes a difference. I just moved my babies into a roofed cinder block building in PA. (We just moved 4 hours south, so sw pa instead of nw pa.) I don't expect to need to heat or cool them ever. For backup water, there is a plan to install a little...

That's for your input Hotzcatz. I totally forgot about how much more size there is to an angora, due to all that wool.

I can't see the post at all.

One way to choose might be to see if any of those species are native to your area.

If that one's domestic, I wouldn't know what color to call it. It might be a snowshoe hare, they do change color. Your general location would help with identification.

I think the real question is why do we put so much herbivore food (corn and grain) into an obligate carnivores diet? :lol:

I had my hanging cages cut and shipped by Klubbertanz. They have a lovely catalog with TONS of options that can be viewed online. Baby saver wire, and gaw (galvanized after weld) are both very good options. Doors you can get your shoulders in are an excellent choice too, as rabbits in general...

You can move a doe who's only 10 days pregnant.

A lot of cheap cat food is mostly corn or other grain products. Functionally more suitable for rabbits than cats!! Still, I could see it causing her to gain weight if she gets too much.

Honestly, rabbits with no pedigree are functionally mutts unless they meet all of the breed characteristics to be shown as a purebred rabbit of one or another breed. Even if they do, their unknown backgrounds could make them undesirable to breed with purebred lines. (A mutt that just happened...

Honestly, I've never gone out of my way for second breedings. I count one good fall off as pregnant, and no fall off as a "maybe." If the buck mounts more than once, that's great. If not, well, I've had so many litters from bucks who didn't, I've never tried to keep count.

I know what you mean about the deer and coon tails, but due to the density of the fur, splitting a rabbit tail doesn't seem to harm the appearance like it does with other critters, but you should try it first on ones that aren't important to you. I've never found a reliable way to strip a...

Inexperience could be an issue. Most bucks are ready by 6 months, but there are always outliers. I would say just keep trying him, also, mark the date of any breeding attempts, as does have been known to get pregnant without noticeable falloff.

They can dry out fine if left in, but it's really better to remove it, and splitting the tail is easier than you might think.

Yes, I would say he is a chestnut agouti with no steel. All dominant genotypes: A_ (agouti) B_(no chocolate dilution) C_(full color) D_ (no blue dilution)E_ (normal extension) I bet some of those kits have nice white ears and bellies by now too.

The coat looks typical for a starving kit.

The small litter likely has more to do with your doe than with your buck. Overweight does seem especially prone to have a large single kit.

Mine tend to have less interest in breeding during the fall when they are moulting, but do well in winter if I introduce them during the morning or evening on nice clear sunshiny days.

Wow, those look like some comfortable rabbits!