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tepes

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We’re just getting started on our rabbit journey. We have had our first rabbits for roughly a month (3 weeks for the boy). The goal is to raise these and breed them for meat rabbits.
My questions are:
*Are they on track weight gain wise? What age should I stop unlimited pellets? What would be the best age to breed her?
We have 2 Californians (We think. Her coloring has gotten darker but his hasn’t.), 1 boy (image with 4 pics), 1 girl (image with 2 pics). Girl is almost 2 months old, boy is 9-15 weeks old (farm store not sure of exact age). I use pellets from Rural King (the feed they were on), unlimited hay, the boy just started getting romaine lettuce.

The girl has doubled her weight in a month (about 3.5 lbs), the boy gained a 1/2 lb (now about 4 lbs) in 3 weeks.
(I read unlimited for growouts but are they still considered growouts once they’re old enough to breed? I read some breed at 5-6 months.)
I’ve read and watched videos, but some of it is conflicting. I asked in a FB group but was told to treat for coccidia: NOTE: they are pooping fine, nice round pellets, no issues. And the point was to try to raise organically as possible. Someone else said no lettuce (I’m only doing romaine, I know iceberg is junk.). I want to give them the best diet for the best cost.
Thank you!!
 

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tepes said:
We’re just getting started on our rabbit journey. We have had our first rabbits for roughly a month (3 weeks for the boy). The goal is to raise these and breed them for meat rabbits.
My questions are:
*Are they on track weight gain wise? What age should I stop unlimited pellets? What would be the best age to breed her?
We have 2 Californians (We think. Her coloring has gotten darker but his hasn’t.), 1 boy (image with 4 pics), 1 girl (image with 2 pics). Girl is almost 2 months old, boy is 9-15 weeks old (farm store not sure of exact age). I use pellets from Rural King (the feed they were on), unlimited hay, the boy just started getting romaine lettuce.

The girl has doubled her weight in a month (about 3.5 lbs), the boy gained a 1/2 lb (now about 4 lbs) in 3 weeks.
(I read unlimited for growouts but are they still considered growouts once they’re old enough to breed? I read some breed at 5-6 months.)
I’ve read and watched videos, but some of it is conflicting. I asked in a FB group but was told to treat for coccidia: NOTE: they are pooping fine, nice round pellets, no issues. And the point was to try to raise organically as possible. Someone else said no lettuce (I’m only doing romaine, I know iceberg is junk.). I want to give them the best diet for the best cost.
Thank you!!
Click to expand...
I found this chart interesting. Rabbit Growth

New Zealand and Californians are very similar. The males are generally smaller than the females. I have New Zealand rabbits. One could stop feeding unlimited pellets at 6 months when they are considered an adult. Feeding unlimited hay then becomes their number 1 food source, along with the pellets and greens offered. However, for me that depends on the rabbit, the weather, hay quality... Many people do breed earlier - between 5-6 months. Because these are considered medium to large breed on average they will mature at 6-7 (some will say 5-6) months. I choose not to breed until 7-8 months. I have found that my does are better mums by waiting until then. However, these are just my opinions based on my New Zealands and Satins. I let my rex have a bit more time. I'm not a commercial grower in the sense of farm lots. I grow my rabbits for shows, 4H, meat, and pelts. I want happy, healthy rabbits living a long life.
So the bottom line? Breed your rabbit when you feel she is physically ( by the characteristics of the breed at that age) and mentally mature.
 
Mckatie said:
I found this chart interesting. Rabbit Growth

New Zealand and Californians are very similar. The males are generally smaller than the females. I have New Zealand rabbits. One could stop feeding unlimited pellets at 6 months when they are considered an adult. Feeding unlimited hay then becomes their number 1 food source, along with the pellets and greens offered. However, for me that depends on the rabbit, the weather, hay quality... Many people do breed earlier - between 5-6 months. Because these are considered medium to large breed on average they will mature at 6-7 (some will say 5-6) months. I choose not to breed until 7-8 months. I have found that my does are better mums by waiting until then. However, these are just my opinions based on my New Zealands and Satins. I let my rex have a bit more time. I'm not a commercial grower in the sense of farm lots. I grow my rabbits for shows, 4H, meat, and pelts. I want happy, healthy rabbits living a long life.
So the bottom line? Breed your rabbit when you feel she is physically ( by the characteristics of the breed at that age) and mentally mature.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much!
 
feeding is one of those difficult to weigh out question. Honestly I NEVER free feed. For the following reasons

1. I've been raising rabbits for about 20 years and have done free feeding and measured feeding. Free feeding in MY HERD causing digging out of pellets. Anything they don't eat immediately they waste. Feed is too expensive for that.
2. I've done experiments with free feeding vs measured feeding. Same rabbits, same breeding over time. My grow-outs grew at the same rate regardless of how I fed them ergo why waste feed?
3. my measured feeding goes as such. 1 ration appropriate to the size of the rabbit. a doe on a litter gets a double ration. Once the kits are out of the box (as early as 14 days) (I tip boxes at 10 days unless weather is freezing). the kits get one ration per every three kits fed in a creep feeder (and one for the doe). Once they are eating well, it's one ration per every two kits (and one for the doe). Once they hit five weeks and they are clearing everything within the hour they get one ration per kit (and doe). If necessary I'll add one extra ration.

Once they are weaned I divide them into small groups as they grow more quickly in small groups than in big ones. So I'll have 2-4 kits per group with one ration each plus one. Some litters are BIG eaters and they'll get an extra ration. I monitor growth rates and if they are just piggies putting on fat.... I'll know that for the next litter.

decisions are made for herds I hope based on research for the animals YOU are raising. It's not a "do what everyone else says". Make decisions, tweak them, and do your best to raise fast growing meat animals (should that be your aim) cost effectively. if you feed hay, green feed, oats etc.... that will also affect how many pellets you feed.
 
ladysown said:
feeding is one of those difficult to weigh out question. Honestly I NEVER free feed. For the following reasons

1. I've been raising rabbits for about 20 years and have done free feeding and measured feeding. Free feeding in MY HERD causing digging out of pellets. Anything they don't eat immediately they waste. Feed is too expensive for that.
2. I've done experiments with free feeding vs measured feeding. Same rabbits, same breeding over time. My grow-outs grew at the same rate regardless of how I fed them ergo why waste feed?
3. my measured feeding goes as such. 1 ration appropriate to the size of the rabbit. a doe on a litter gets a double ration. Once the kits are out of the box (as early as 14 days) (I tip boxes at 10 days unless weather is freezing). the kits get one ration per every three kits fed in a creep feeder (and one for the doe). Once they are eating well, it's one ration per every two kits (and one for the doe). Once they hit five weeks and they are clearing everything within the hour they get one ration per kit (and doe). If necessary I'll add one extra ration.

Once they are weaned I divide them into small groups as they grow more quickly in small groups than in big ones. So I'll have 2-4 kits per group with one ration each plus one. Some litters are BIG eaters and they'll get an extra ration. I monitor growth rates and if they are just piggies putting on fat.... I'll know that for the next litter.

decisions are made for herds I hope based on research for the animals YOU are raising. It's not a "do what everyone else says". Make decisions, tweak them, and do your best to raise fast growing meat animals (should that be your aim) cost effectively. if you feed hay, green feed, oats etc.... that will also affect how many pellets you feed.
Click to expand...
What is your creep feeder?? Is it something you make or purchase? My does love to turn anything not tied down into toys😆
 
I used to free feed grow outs and nursing moms, and my rabbits never dig, but rats were a problem at my new place, so I focus on feeding as much as they will eat and clean up before dark now. It has not changed their growth rates appreciably.
 
What is your creep feeder?? Is it something you make or purchase? My does love to turn anything not tied down into toys😆
Click to expand...

okay, my creep feeders are simply flat, low-lying ceramic dishes.... like what you'd use for pickle or candy dishes I think? Most I have picked up from free piles on garage sale days. My does don't tend to mess with them beyond shoving them around and they only hold enough to get kits interested in pellets from a bowl. if the tipped nestbox is relatively clean I'll toss the pellets in there instead. Any wastage is minimal. Once kits start peeing in the bowls I stop using them and switch to attached feeders on the side of the cage.

Mind my whole goal is to get kits started early on feed so I toss a small bit of pellets into the nestbox starting day 5 along with some grass/alfalfa leaves. Since doing so, particularly with my hollands, I get less failure to thrive kits as well (but that also might be due to my focus on ... if you ain't completely healthy (or make me give you a side eye twice) you are cat food approach).
 
ladysown said:
feeding is one of those difficult to weigh out question. Honestly I NEVER free feed. For the following reasons

1. I've been raising rabbits for about 20 years and have done free feeding and measured feeding. Free feeding in MY HERD causing digging out of pellets. Anything they don't eat immediately they waste. Feed is too expensive for that.
2. I've done experiments with free feeding vs measured feeding. Same rabbits, same breeding over time. My grow-outs grew at the same rate regardless of how I fed them ergo why waste feed?
3. my measured feeding goes as such. 1 ration appropriate to the size of the rabbit. a doe on a litter gets a double ration. Once the kits are out of the box (as early as 14 days) (I tip boxes at 10 days unless weather is freezing). the kits get one ration per every three kits fed in a creep feeder (and one for the doe). Once they are eating well, it's one ration per every two kits (and one for the doe). Once they hit five weeks and they are clearing everything within the hour they get one ration per kit (and doe). If necessary I'll add one extra ration.

Once they are weaned I divide them into small groups as they grow more quickly in small groups than in big ones. So I'll have 2-4 kits per group with one ration each plus one. Some litters are BIG eaters and they'll get an extra ration. I monitor growth rates and if they are just piggies putting on fat.... I'll know that for the next litter.

decisions are made for herds I hope based on research for the animals YOU are raising. It's not a "do what everyone else says". Make decisions, tweak them, and do your best to raise fast growing meat animals (should that be your aim) cost effectively. if you feed hay, green feed, oats etc.... that will also affect how many pellets you feed.
Click to expand...
I'm curious to how big the cages are that you put 2-4 weaned rabbits in
 
tepes said:
We’re just getting started on our rabbit journey. We have had our first rabbits for roughly a month (3 weeks for the boy). The goal is to raise these and breed them for meat rabbits.
My questions are:
*Are they on track weight gain wise? What age should I stop unlimited pellets? What would be the best age to breed her?
We have 2 Californians (We think. Her coloring has gotten darker but his hasn’t.), 1 boy (image with 4 pics), 1 girl (image with 2 pics). Girl is almost 2 months old, boy is 9-15 weeks old (farm store not sure of exact age). I use pellets from Rural King (the feed they were on), unlimited hay, the boy just started getting romaine lettuce.

The girl has doubled her weight in a month (about 3.5 lbs), the boy gained a 1/2 lb (now about 4 lbs) in 3 weeks.
(I read unlimited for growouts but are they still considered growouts once they’re old enough to breed? I read some breed at 5-6 months.)
I’ve read and watched videos, but some of it is conflicting. I asked in a FB group but was told to treat for coccidia: NOTE: they are pooping fine, nice round pellets, no issues. And the point was to try to raise organically as possible. Someone else said no lettuce (I’m only doing romaine, I know iceberg is junk.). I want to give them the best diet for the best cost.
Thank you!!
Click to expand...
It's so exciting to have your first rabbits!💖 What you are feeding is fine, I pick grass for my rabbits too. If they are healthy I won't do any coccidia treatment(If they start looking sickly then do the treatment), you can put a little bit of apple cider vinegar in their waters every other day, sometimes when my rabbits are looking sickly its because they need to be dewormed. That's weird that the buck doesn't have much color🤔. I give my rabbits as much as I know they will eat(so they don't waste stuff. When you breed a doe they should,
1. Pass the health check(Good weight, healthy fur, no vent disease, and big enough to support a litter).
2. Be mentally mature(Some does will mature quickly some will take a few extra months).
If you have any more questions please ask!
 

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