Newbie question about NZs

Hi again, and thanks to everyone who is being so helpful with all my Newbie questions.

I have just about got the cage stuff settled in my mind, and my thoughts are turning to rabbit breeds. When I think of a New Zealand, the picture that pops up in my mind is a big white rabbit. But in my research I have discovered that there are other New Zealands, at least as far as showing is concerned!

Are these other variations just as suited for raising as meat rabbits as the whites?
Is there a secret to finding good stock for forming the basis of my (very) mini-herd of meat rabbits?
Things I should say I am looking for?
Do I buy babies, or "proven does" and "proven bucks?"
Also, I have read in an older edition of "Rabbit Production" that the age for their first mating is 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 months, other places list several months older as optimum. Is there a best age for their first mating?

Thanks!

Yes. New Zealand Blacks, Whites, Reds and Brokens are all meat types. Reds are smaller though, at least as far as ARBA is concerned. The Whites are much easier to find, at least in my experience.
The best tip I can give to finding good stock is to take your time and make a few calls and a few visits to different breeders. I wouldn't buy weanlings simply because you'll be putting a lot of money (feed) into them before they're old enough to breed. Proven does and bucks will be much more expensive. Unless you're promised kits within a certain time frame probably not worth the extra expense. IMO, I would buy between the ages of 4 and 6 months or around the 7lb weight mark, right at the time when most people breed for the first time. You can also always ask the breeder to breed any does you buy. Not only will you be able to watch and learn from someone with lots of experience but you'll also get a litter (fingers crossed) about the time the quarantine period is over.

Yes, all New Zealands are suitable for raising as meat rabbits. They come in White, red, black, blue, and broken. Brokens are new, and probably hard to find.

I have read that reds are actually a different type than the other NZs. I have also read that they can be slightly more aggressive. I do not know whether either is actually true.

Generally, the larger the rabbit, the longer you normally wait to breed. If I'm not mistaken, the typical age for NZs is around 7 months, but some do breed them earlier. I know of at least one person who breeds hers once early, and then not again until later... I think she said her experience was that they were more receptive later as a result. I do not know if this is the case.

I know you will get plenty of good input here!

Things to look for:
1- top teeth come over bottom teeth
2- plush foot pads with no sores
3- ***
4- clear, bright eyes
5- clean, lustrous fur
6- when the rabbit is on its back, the back feet should be roughly parallel, like ||, not \/.
7- healthy feel, not boney, spine should be rolling bumps (not spiky, but not unfeelable)
8- clean anal area and vent area
9- no colored nose discharge, preferably no nose discharge (clear could be allergies)
10- fur on front paws and legs not matted
11- broad across the shoulders, if possible (more meat); ideally nearly as broad as the hips
12- as unmedicated as possible, preferably no medication at all (hardiness)
13- preferably foot pads not discolored

As to finding good stock... that's trickier. I asked a similar question some time back... how to find a good breeder. It's not easy to know who's a good breeder. I guess if you can find recommendations, that's good. A breeder who raises for meat rather than pets, since they will be breeding for stocky bunnies.

Miss M":1cmqf5qr said:

Yes, all New Zealands are suitable for raising as meat rabbits. They come in White, red, black, blue, and broken. Brokens are new, and probably hard to find.

I have read that reds are actually a different type than the other NZs. I have also read that they can be slightly more aggressive. I do not know whether either is actually true.

Click to expand...

I have NZ Reds and they are very gentle and I've also read that the does make better moms than most. Size wise, they were as big as the whites from the breeders that I've been too. My California's are jumpy and skittish compared to the others. My Champagne D'Argents are kickers and their the only ones that scratched me so far.

From what I've been told by the breeders around here is the Whites are more popular because of the commercial industry. They process the rabbits quickly and the white fur is easier to see on the meat.

We had reds, they were super sweet.i dont think it mattters if they are for home use.I actuallly had better luck with the reds than the whites.although we only had 3 whites.they were better mothers the reds.but we only had six adult rabbits total.

PatS":2ww0rxub said:

Hi again, and thanks to everyone who is being so helpful with all my Newbie questions.

I have just about got the cage stuff settled in my mind, and my thoughts are turning to rabbit breeds. When I think of a New Zealand, the picture that pops up in my mind is a big white rabbit. But in my research I have discovered that there are other New Zealands, at least as far as showing is concerned!

Are these other variations just as suited for raising as meat rabbits as the whites?
Is there a secret to finding good stock for forming the basis of my (very) mini-herd of meat rabbits?
Things I should say I am looking for?
Do I buy babies, or "proven does" and "proven bucks?"
Also, I have read in an older edition of "Rabbit Production" that the age for their first mating is 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 months, other places list several months older as optimum. Is there a best age for their first mating?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

PatS, I am going to go against conventional wisdom here and say that you should get them young...no younger than 8 weeks but no older than 12 weeks. That way, you raise them and they are used to you. I have more scars on my arms from the breeding age rabbits that I bought than I care to count. I know my first instinct was to get them old enough to breed right away, but I wish now that I had gotten them younger. Also, I breed mine for the first time at 17 wks for the does and 20-24 weeks for the bucks, as they mature slower. That is when most commercial rabbit operations begin breeding and my experience with this has been good. Just my two cents...

the whites are by far the most utilized in the commercial industry, followed closely by the cals.

finding "good" stock is going to be the trick. when i built my present rabbitry, i started my search for a good commercial grade of NZW's. it took me three years to find what i consider a good strain of rabbits. i went through many does and bucks searching for what i would be satisfied with. i'm not one to do an extensive amount of traveling so i probably hurt myself by being so stubborn about my unwillingness to travel a good distance. as luck would have it, the good stock came from two sources that were fairly close by. but, it took me some time to reach that conclusion.

i would not recommend buying adult stock. first off...any breeder worth his salt won't be willing to turn loose of his best does. plus, older stock don't generally perform as well when they are relocated. if you could find young replacement does from a breeder's best, that would be a good way to start. plus, you'd be able to learn their behaviour while they are maturing. personally, i'd buy all young stock 8-10 weeks old out of a breeder's best. i know it takes a little longer but they will age out in the place they are going to produce in. it does make a difference.

5 months and 8 pounds is the standard i breed by. others will disagree with this formula, but it has worked well for me. i look for a doe that is easily settled, gives good numbers during kindling, and provides ample milk to their young. i tolerate a doe that growls a bit when they have young in the nest. i don't necessarily "love" them, but i do put up with them. they've got protective instincts that coincide with good mothering abilities. not all good does are grouchy....just some.

of course, look for good general health and confirmation. if you're dealing with a reputable breeder, they'll make sure you receive good stock because they want you to succeed and be pleased with your purchase. word of mouth carries a long way in breeding and selling rabbits. best of luck in your search.

grumpy.

With a coupla years of heavy culling and selecting for fastest weight gain and only keeping those,and repeat and repeat,you will have an great herd...Sure there will be other things too watch out for,but with selection you only want to select for one thing at a time,,In this case weight gain at 56 and 70 days which also takes care of feed conversian...

There will be heavy culling of the seniors aswell,so sharpen your knives....

I've got one nzw doe that will charge me mouth open and front feet flyin,but is an great mom and I just put my hand over her head and slowly bring in down for a forhead rub,and she calms right down,but an hour later will do the same thing and I love it....

I've got another nzw doe that took me six months too tame down and now everytime she sees me runs too the side of the cage for a forhead rub,,kinda anoying but adorable...THis same do pulled no hair and lost all but one of her litter that I fostered,,so you never know,,I guess....

Select 5 to 8 week olds only for breeders for they will adapt much easier too cage size and environment...

When commercial breeders breed their doe's at 4.5 -5 months is when they make fast weight gains and are much larger at 5 months than a backyard rabbit so to speak...

Generally you're looking for 5 pounds at 8 weeks old,,of course alot depends on that aswell such as environment meaning outside temps,plenty of fresh air,feed,water etc,,,but with heavy selection you can greatly tip the scales in your favor....

Another practice is too breed a larger nzw buck to your doe's....Some don't do this for their is a market for meat pens and the kits make gains too fast....

Any rabbit can be done as above,color doesn't matter unless your selling to a processor..............

Make a commitment before you start for it's not hard work but can be time consuming....

Anyways,,just some Ideas

Good Luck......

If you intend to sell excess rabbits to a rabbit runner or precessor they usually demand all white bodies. The reason for that is that if a hair gets stuck to the meat white is less noiceable.

I had heard that they want white because furriers want white pelts because rabbit fur takes dye so well. The fur on the meat was not an aspect that occurred to me. Makes sense- commercial chickens and turkeys are white because any missed pin feathers don't show up as much as colored feathers.

Rabbit pelts can be beautiful but they have never been much used by furriers except in the cheaper products because the fur tends to shed no matter how they are processed. The biggest demand for them nowadays is among crafters.

I had a rabbit fur coat when I was a little girl, and it did shed!