Recent content by MeadowView

Many places it is illegal to sell before eight weeks. Just FYI. You do you, but rabbits rarely leave here before 12 weeks. You can’t properly evaluate before that age, anyway. I tattoo at weaning, usually six weeks, sometimes later. It’s when I get to that “I need to know who is who” stage.

Lighting is everything. If you can leave lights on for an extended period of time, do. I’m talking 24-48 hours or until every doe you own wants to get it. Cut her feed back, if she’s even a little on the chunky side you’ll have issues. You can try holding her in place, but I’ve never had this...

They should be tattooed, yes. Registered, no. If you can’t do it, there are usually people at shows who will. Just IMO though. If you are selling pedigreed rabbits as show or breeding prospects the parents need to be tattooed.

To register a rabbit, they must be fully pedigreed to start. That means a three generation pedigree. All ancestors must have a tattoo number, a recorded weight that falls into the breed standard and be of an accepted color. In addition, the rabbit you are registering must meet breed standards...

I think you’ve got rabbit care covered! Don’t forget the food though. ;) If you’re selling, bring a sign. Most people use a white board to list rabbits, breed, prices, etc.

I’d agree with Michael, don’t get a new animal just to dispose of dead kits. Personally my deads are buried under plants outside, they hang out in the freezer until spring. I’m working on a ‘food forest’ and putting a ton of permaculture into my property, so a little boost at the roots to get em...

I’ve got one of my himmie does due next week and then a checkered doe due two weeks after. I’m confident my himmie girl took but can’t get a hand around the checkered without fear of losing a hand, so we’re just gonna wait and see! Best of luck to all y’all! Hope everyone has big healthy litters!

i second everything shazza said, but had something to add. I had a LOT of trouble a while ago getting a young buck to breed, same scenario. For first time bucks I recommend table breeding to help them get the idea, so you’re in a little more control of the doe. Prevents her from giving him too...

I don’t think the moult has anything to do with it, and all the answers here are correct as well. I do have something to add though, which is that in the summer my does will carry a litter to term and then promptly eat their kits upon delivery, the only trace being some blood in their pans. I...

Exactly what shazza said. Rabbit pellets are designed for rabbits, and every ingredient serves a purpose. I would expect fertility and condition problems very quickly on an unbalanced alfalfa only diet.

Everything from the pans goes straight to the garden. I’ve dug out about a 50 x 50 ft space a few inches and i’m laying straight hay and manure for my base layer for the vegetable garden next year. It’s also great to protect young perennial vegetables and fruit trees without established root...

If your gut is telling you something, there’s usually a reason. Trust your instincts, she may be just fine but if she isn’t you’ll never forgive yourself for putting an animal in a bad situation.

The weight listed is senior weight. Make sure you keep this updated on your own rabbits, because rabbits cannot be registered without a recorded weight for every animal on the pedigree.

Rabbits don’t need their own room. Pet rabbit people are crazy. My rule of thumb is three to four hops worth of space, if that makes sense. Double that for two rabbits. Direct sun can actually be a problem for rabbits as they don’t handle heat super well, so shade will be much better for them...

M4G is right - but there's no reason you can't breed for both. In commercial rabbits, show quality generally translates usually to fine bone, and bulk where it counts - the parts of the rabbit you'll be eating. I don't raise meat rabbits (yet) but I still select for most of the same things - I'm...