MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
Before attempting to breed your rabbits, it is important to check the overall condition of both the doe and the buck.
They should be of good weight. An easy way to check this is to feel the spinal column- the vertebrae should feel like gently rounded bumps. If they feel "spiky", the animal is underweight, and if they cannot be felt at all, the animal is overweight.
Underweight does may have trouble carrying a healthy litter to term and may be unable to produce enough milk. Overweight does may have trouble conceiving due to fat deposits around the ovaries and fallopian tubes. Overweight bucks will be lazy and not eager to breed.
The buck's ***** should be a healthy pink color, free of lesions. The doe's vulva should be dark pink or purple, and will be engorged by extra blood.
This is a picture of a young doe who is not ready to be bred. Notice that her vulva is a pale whitish-pink color and is quite slim:
This doe is likely to be receptive. Notice the engorgement of the vulva, and the dark pink color:
This doe is at or near the height of her cycle. Notice the very dark purple coloration:
Here is another doe that is likely to be receptive...
Does are very territorial and protective of their space, and may attack a buck if he invades her territory. Always bring the doe to the buck's cage for breeding, or take them to a neutral area, placing the buck in the area first so he may claim it as his own.
The doe may run around the cage for a time, and may also grunt or growl. Tail wagging indicates that she is probably ready, but is "playing hard to get". If the doe is receptive, she will "lift" for him by standing on her rear toes.
After a successful breeding, the buck will fall off the doe, usually quite dramatically.
I customarily have the buck cover the doe two or three times in succession. Rabbits are induced ovulators, which means the eggs are released after coitus occurs, about 8-10 hours after the initial copulation. For this reason, many people breed again 8 hours after the initial breeding. Knowing that sperm live for 72 hours or more, I consider that practice to be a waste of my time.
If you have a successful breeding resulting in no litter, or an unwilling pair, the buck and/or doe may be lacking sufficient levels of Vitamin A and E. Good sources of Vitamin A include Dandelion, Turnip greens, Mustard greens, Romaine lettuce, spinach, winter squash, sweet potato, and carrots. Vitamin E can be found in Sunflower seeds, dried apricots, basil, oregano, and spinach.
Apple Cider Vinegar is often added to the water to promote good condition in both does and bucks. Some people have found that giving the doe Celestial Seasonings Raspberry Zinger Tea will bring her into season. Others believe that taking her for a drive in a car will do the trick. Another option is to put the doe in the buck's cage and the buck in the doe's cage overnight.
If possible, it is always a good idea to breed two or more does at the same time. If any of the does experience problems or have a very large litter you have the option to foster kits to another doe.
I hope that this information will be helpful to those just starting out breeding rabbits, and look forward to any input and tips that others have found to be useful!
They should be of good weight. An easy way to check this is to feel the spinal column- the vertebrae should feel like gently rounded bumps. If they feel "spiky", the animal is underweight, and if they cannot be felt at all, the animal is overweight.
Underweight does may have trouble carrying a healthy litter to term and may be unable to produce enough milk. Overweight does may have trouble conceiving due to fat deposits around the ovaries and fallopian tubes. Overweight bucks will be lazy and not eager to breed.
The buck's ***** should be a healthy pink color, free of lesions. The doe's vulva should be dark pink or purple, and will be engorged by extra blood.
This is a picture of a young doe who is not ready to be bred. Notice that her vulva is a pale whitish-pink color and is quite slim:
This doe is likely to be receptive. Notice the engorgement of the vulva, and the dark pink color:
This doe is at or near the height of her cycle. Notice the very dark purple coloration:
Here is another doe that is likely to be receptive...
Does are very territorial and protective of their space, and may attack a buck if he invades her territory. Always bring the doe to the buck's cage for breeding, or take them to a neutral area, placing the buck in the area first so he may claim it as his own.
The doe may run around the cage for a time, and may also grunt or growl. Tail wagging indicates that she is probably ready, but is "playing hard to get". If the doe is receptive, she will "lift" for him by standing on her rear toes.
After a successful breeding, the buck will fall off the doe, usually quite dramatically.
I customarily have the buck cover the doe two or three times in succession. Rabbits are induced ovulators, which means the eggs are released after coitus occurs, about 8-10 hours after the initial copulation. For this reason, many people breed again 8 hours after the initial breeding. Knowing that sperm live for 72 hours or more, I consider that practice to be a waste of my time.
If you have a successful breeding resulting in no litter, or an unwilling pair, the buck and/or doe may be lacking sufficient levels of Vitamin A and E. Good sources of Vitamin A include Dandelion, Turnip greens, Mustard greens, Romaine lettuce, spinach, winter squash, sweet potato, and carrots. Vitamin E can be found in Sunflower seeds, dried apricots, basil, oregano, and spinach.
Apple Cider Vinegar is often added to the water to promote good condition in both does and bucks. Some people have found that giving the doe Celestial Seasonings Raspberry Zinger Tea will bring her into season. Others believe that taking her for a drive in a car will do the trick. Another option is to put the doe in the buck's cage and the buck in the doe's cage overnight.
If possible, it is always a good idea to breed two or more does at the same time. If any of the does experience problems or have a very large litter you have the option to foster kits to another doe.
I hope that this information will be helpful to those just starting out breeding rabbits, and look forward to any input and tips that others have found to be useful!
